VapingBad

Yes, that's why having disabled USB Charging in Device monitor would explain that, hopefully that is the answer.

Check Device Monitor - Diagnostics - Enable USB Charging as nothing to stop it charging in that screen shot.

Just going by the spec (3S 5200 mAh 50C), not looked at the link and know nothing about the make, yes more than powerful enough as long as it fits in your box, you may need to swap the connector.

2 cell, 17 Wh, it is 18.5 on paper, but sag will stop you using every bit. Your voltage is 7.4 for the calculator, maybe you don't have 2 cell selected.

No you never "needed" to, the CSVs from battery analyser and battery capacity do not affect performance, they just make the fuel gauge more accurate. (Low cut off and the current limits do affect performance.)

My 75Cs have fixed batteries, but I would try changing a setting before changing the battery that may force it to save the values or plugging into Escribe (which is not really practical)

The battery pack line, normally black, in Device Monitor not Battery Analyser (though that will work), hover the mouse over the lowest points to see how low the battery sags (I think the hw limit is 2.75 V). When you start hitting that low limit on every puff your battery is struggling to supply enough power, connection issues can make it worse as well.

Sounds like a battery or ground connection issue causing the board to see too much battery sag, sorry I don't have the mod to give you more specific advise.

Could it be you are trying to us the updates for the Wisemec rx200 and not the DNA 200? I just update mine with the latest fw from Evolv.

You can just change the background on a theme you like.

Check the cell voltages of the battery (with a volt metre each adjacent pair of connections on the balance plug) if they are different from what the DNA reports check the balance wires connections are all clean and secure. If they are the same you could have a faulty battery or board, I would charge the battery externally refit and check they discharge evenly within a few millivolts, you may need to get the volt metre out to check, if they don't it is the battery.

Yes, the 510 can easily be even more resistance than that, my Silo is between 0.003 and 0.004 ohm mod res, one tip with these every six months give the board mount screws a tweak (loosen and tighten one turn) to keep a good electrical path for the ground.

In short parallel batteries will always be at the same voltage so are safe to charge together with the same parameters used for charging a single cell. If they are balanced each one will consume half the current. Series are the opposite: they will always be at the same current, but their voltage may vary depending on how well matched they are so monitoring the individual cell voltages is necessary. I happily charge my Rolo and C1D2 via USB and using external chargers depending on what is more convenient at the time. IMO rotating the position of batteries is rubbish, the only real reason would be if the cell in one position got a lot hotter than the others so aged a little quicker and I could only really see that happening in a dual battery hybrid mech where the top cell may get some heat from the atty, basically hogwash in the real world. For me the best dual battery mod would be based on a DNA 250, a better board with much faster charging and far higher efficency.

You can get the 304 profile from http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp# I'll paste it here "Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -58,0.9073666667 68,1 212,1.0909 302,1.1426 392,1.1917 482,1.2388 572,1.2844 800,1.3857966667 In general ensure all connections clean and tight, mod resistance is not set too high, better zero than too high.

I have not seen one, probably best to find a theme that implements the feature you want and examine it in Theme Designer.

I would, it should be a mechanical repair and you have nothing to loose, it may be just be jammed.

I avoid facebook etc as they are just a undecipherable and often unfriendly stream of wtf to me (dyslexic), w = why not what mostly. But if they are making the world better more power to them, and from your post I get the feeling Cynthia & Co are.

As @giz_60 said I think it is the battery sag before it gets to the board, the output voltage is tailored to the load and wattage and you can't look at it as a simple resistive loss. My best advise would be to check the ground connections and the battery connections.

They don't switch off like most modern electronics the switches send a signal to the brain and just like your TV off is a standby mode where the brain still uses minimal power to listen for the turn on press. If you had a mechanical switch like the one on wall sockets it would need to handle > 30 A, last a long time and have a cut-out in the box, eCigs and mobile phones just don't do this, yeah phones have an off, bit it is not a zero power off.

I'll ave a go 1) min voltage per cell on the 200 specs, it changed after folks on this forum asked for 18650 and especially 2 cell operation, well they asked for 1 cell operation bit not enough voltage to run the chip with a step down only converter like the 200 & 250. For the 20, 25, 30, 40, 75 & 75C which can boost the voltage I don't think the chip min voltage is a concern and it is more a guide to choose a battery. 2) based on hitting low cut off, it was simple with the 200 as with 3 cells this was normally when they were very low, but with the 75 on high power you can get a lot of sag (battery contact quality affect this significantly as well with cylindrical cells like 18650s) they put in allowances for it just hitting the low cut off during preheat, but after preheat it's the same: if you hit the cut off you will get the warning. 3) all of 2 (and now I am relying on a bit of memory, guesswork etc) I think it uses the capacity tracking (Wh and csv you can enter for the battery) and IIRC the absolute limit is if your battery cannot sustain 5 W draw. 4) I've never seen them go below 2.75 V for more than an instant and am pretty sure that is the hard limit set on the board, but Escribe lets you set other values that will be ignored if below that as far I know, device monitor will show this very clearly.

Understanding sag will help you understand the week and check battery warnings, basically the more power you pull from the battery the lower the instantaneous voltage, the voltage at the battery terminals. All cells have an internal resistance and the lower this is the lower the sag will be, you can work it out with Ohm's Law, but just vaping at different power levels while watching the cell values in device monitor will make it far easier to understand. The battery voltage raise again quickly when you stop drawing power, so you are vaping at high power with a low battery count the cells could be 3.5 V or higher at rest, but not have enough grunt left to vape at full power as they would sag to the cut off. The soft cell cut off is the min voltage the board will allow the battery to go before backing off the power, I think all the DNAs have 2.75 V minimum on this which is fine for decent 18650s, but for LiPos 3.09 V (the default) is advisable. The boards don't show the battery warnings if you just briefly hit the cut off during preheat, once the age cause this to get hit during normal puff conditions the weak battery message will show, the check battery also takes into account how much capacity you have used and how many Watts it judges your batter can supply. As these are variable wattage devices the coil resistance doesn't affect this, think watts from the battery and watts from the coils, if you are using 50 W at the coil you are pulling just a bit more from the battery (depends on the efficiency rating of the board). The board converts both voltage and current at the same time so the figure you get for coil current does not apply to the battery. Now because the battery sags when you draw power causing it voltage to drop the current the board draws raises, EG a cell at 4 V drawing 40 W you would expect current to be 40 W/4 V = 10 A, but if that 10 A draw causes a battery sag of 0.5 V it becomes 40W/3.5 V = 11.4 A. Have a look at this in device monitor, a picture is worth a 1000 words.

Do you fire between changing the coils, check all your profiles, maybe you have a second 316 one that is looked, try overriding ohms in atty analyzer in escribe.

T=GET Be aware the device has to put some power through the coil to be able to read the resistance and this may prevent you getting a true reading of ambient temp, there is a temp sensor on the board that may be helpful, sorry I don't know the command to read that. If you go to the install folder EG: C:\Users\<yourname>\AppData\Roaming\Evolv\EScribe there is a Escribe,pdf document with details of how to use the python scripting, I did a battery testing script here using it https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post/escribe-custom-battery-test-python-script-8344246

Temp limiting with preheat will be the closest and better IMO, with VV the power will go down as the coil get warm because it's resistance goes up.

Yeah, that's not right, I was fixing a 200 for a forum buddy recently and balance and recovery charging weren't doing it, I got it going by charging each cell separately then replace the battery as IMO it was the root cause (end of life). Like yours it had one weak cell, could be the board but IMO replacing or externally charging the battery is the first place to start if you can't just send in under warranty.