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VapingBad

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Everything posted by VapingBad

  1. ECig['USB Current'] = 0.0 for boards that have an inbuilt charger
  2. Don't forget the atty, so many have a centre pin that screws in which after lots of heat-cool cycles loosens and lets in dirt, try loosening a tiny bit then tightening all threads in your atty that are part of the current path.
  3. Res should never drop when you fire, either fitted the atty hot or have a connection or coil issue. I will repeat what I have posted elsewhere: I get this with a clone Exocet in a clone BB, I override and lock the res to the min, then adjust the res value to tune in the vape, too hot lower the res, too cool raise the res, with SS these adjustments are only 0.01 - 0.002 ohm at a time. The board can't cure an atty with a inherent unstable connection issue, but you can probably use this method to work around it.
  4. 200 & 250 a little longer for the battery balance connector, maybe 5 or 6 mm, just extending the length at the bottom of the board. The button and screen cut outs and mount hole spacing are all the same the same.
  5. Try those, they will be almost identical as these are per cell, up to 4.2 V regardless of the number of cells.
  6. Theme designer add field - setting usb current (sort of charge current, but at 5 v for USB) maybe Theme designer add field - device monitor field Battery current (would include charge, not tried) Theme designer add field - device monitor field Atomizer current (amps while firing)
  7. Not got one, but looks like those tabs are the screen holder, try removing the 3 hex screws holding the board down I suspect it will lift easily after that and you will be able to change the screen easily. ETA You can see the lower screw in the bottom left of the photo, the other two are in the top corners of the board.
  8. Ni80 is not a temp control wire, just vape that in watts/power mode.
  9. From a brit POV StealthVape are tip top, no safer hands.
  10. Yes and yes, the boost is in the latest international firmware and only for the initial art of the puff.
  11. Almost certainly a connection issue, could be the way the mesh is connected in the atty and you may not be able to change the. After vaping TC since the DNA 40 I had to use ohm lock for the second time, both times were with clone atties, the first was an Origenny 2 ( managed to fix that by stripping some of the anodising) and now with an Exocet (for Billet Box). It feels a bit like defeat doing it, but it works tuning by taste. In Atomiser Analyser override ohms to the lowest it registers in Device Monitor, set the temp to your norm, if to weak increase the res a little, if to lively lower the res a little, repeat until it hits the sweet spot. Only do this if you have to, DNAs do a great job with good connections and like I said I have only had to do it twice since TC hit the world. Some gnarly coils may benefit even with good connections they can jump about in res terms.
  12. Worth checking the centre pin on the Armoanizer they work lose over time.
  13. It fits connection issues, I'm not absolutely saying that is it, but it fits, clean threads and surfaces (including 510 centre Pin both sides, battery contacts etc), atty centre pin or joints between more complex atties body sections also can cause issues. Any brass or copper in the chain can oxidise and accumulate general dirt over time and needs regular maintenance, not every day, week or month, just keep an eye one it.
  14. See the data sheet found here https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna75 page 6 will help you to change to a power profile.
  15. The web site was down, it should work fine now.
  16. I think this because it is a 2 battery cell 250C and the resistance is causing it to hit the voltage cut off, the simple answer is use a lower resistance coil if you want 95 W as you can't add battery cells. This board is a step down converter and the data sheet has 10 V as the max output voltage, this would be with 4 battery cells, you only have half that and are getting 7.3 V so it is not a halving of the max, but I would put my money on this being your issue. If you lower the power so the voltage is < 7 V is it accurate then? if so my guess is probably right. ETA lower battery charge will negatively affect this, but it does not need to be an issue if you can lower your resistance enough.
  17. Correct, you can't harm it with EScribe. A hardware fault could be physical damage to the board or a failed electronic component.
  18. Looks like the site is no more, you could recreate the them in MS Paint, set the image to B&W, you can open the standard theme in theme designer, save any screen to get the correct size then copy and paste for the image above saving each screen one by one.
  19. Not in the sense the term is normally used because you can always reupload the firmware , but a hardware fault could brick it.
  20. I realise English is not your first language, but neither are functions, Charging is a field (read-only data) and Charge is a setting (read and write data, a setting not a measurement) I have not investigated Charge, you could add it to a theme and see if you can match what it is/does in EScribe.
  21. Battery - Level = % for gauge Battery - Charge = new to me, it's a numeric setting not an info field don't know what it does, maybe max charge current. Battery - Charging = true if the battery is charging, false if not
  22. Not tried it, but I think you guess correctly. As I understand it this setting is mainly for charging and battery protection and the device will always use all cells in series. If you are charging externally you could set the battery type to power supply but you would lose low battery protection. 3 cells sounds like the best way IMO, I think it would still individually monitor each of the 3 cells for low voltage, again if you are not going to charge 4 cells in the mod. Disclaimer: I have not tried these so only do so at your own risk and if you understand what you are doing.
  23. It is fair to say replay replaces temp control, it is built on top of Evolv's temp control tech and couldn't work without it. A bit like some cars having computerised driving aids replay would be like the manufactures preset that works for most folks, but having all the fine adjustments with TC is more akin to a track car and can provide greater control and performance when desired.
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