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Found 22 results

  1. Version 2.0.0


    Guys, I'm create theme for DNA 60 Small Screen, I'm try to my best, this theme include a logo and classic fonts, I hope you can enjoy with this theme. Cheers...
  2. Version 1.0.0


    Hi, I created a theme similar to the original version of the Psychomod KBR-S theme. Only the welcome screens have been changed, the other screens are left unchanged
  3. Version 1.0.0


    My version theme for the dna 60.
  4. Version 1.1.0


    Guys, Few themes for the BB here. My take attached. Just the two welcome screens, the rest is stock. Cheers, MMK
  5. Dear Evolv DNA developers, I've been using dna60 small screen for almost a year, I'm not very comfortable with some of the displays that come with dna60ss, some fonts look really bad and hard to read. Different with dna bigscreen versions, that look better and are easier for users to read, I have attached some examples below, 1. Ohm and Volt Display Ohm and volt display is a very important part because it is always seen by the user, I took this picture using the capture feature from escribe, and I resize this 1. Original Evolv 2. Pict 2 Look at the ohm and volt display from evolv, I think 0 look like Q, and some numbers may need to be fixed, but I see more often 0, so it's best to change like to Pict 2, because it's more comfortable to look that. In watt display 0 watt until 60 watt don't have problem at all, it's been very good. Pict 2 file 96x16 2. Letter and Number Display Maybe some letters and numbers in the picture below also need a lot of improvement too 1. Original Evolv 2. Pict 3 Look in the serial number and version, on the top row JMGBKC, and bottom row S8203, it's looks not so good. When I first saw the letter that should be letter G, i really don't know what it is, i found out it was the letter G when I see it from escribe app. on Pict 3 JMGBKC - S8203, I think looks better. Pict 3 file 96x16 3. Battery Indicator On the battery indicator charging display I also think there are some things that need to be minor fixed. 1. Original Evolv 2. Pict 4 In original evolv picture you can see the battery bar is not precise, I think should be like in pict 4. for optimize the battery calibration results in dna60ss, I hope the developer will also reviewing the battery indicator display from 0%-100% (below I attached it in zip), this may be important for dna60ss because it shows the battery capacity used. Battery Charging : 100% 75% 50% 25% 0% Battery Indicator 0%-100% : Battery_Indicator_0%-100%.zip I made this post because this part cannot be done using the escribe app. please change it with 1bit resolution png. We really hope the developer will optimize and fixed dna60ss display problem, we are waiting for the next update. Thankyou so much
  6. Version 2.0.0


    Guys, My take on the DOVPO College DNA60. V2 includes Deer Mods logo. Cheers, MMK
  7. Hi all, I am building my own boro mod using DNA60 board and want to use remote switches for Fire button and UP/Down buttons instead of onboard buttons. DNA60 data sheet says I found these buttons on mouser.com https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Switches/KMT071-NGJ-LHS?qs=sGAEpiMZZMut9fa67LKaQk0qXR1EPlzM0Bq7WRKfNWk= Can someone please tell me if the switches in the above link will work as remote switches for Fire button and Up/Down buttons. Also If anyone know better switches available please give me links to them. Thanks in advance
  8. I have a SqEvo, that I'm looing to repair, and I'm wondering if the wire used in it's original construction is appropriate. It appears to be 18 gauge solid core enameled wire. The mod in question has 10.8 hours on it according to EScribe and I suspect friction of the battery positive wire rubbing against the 510 while the button was being pressed, is the cause for the enamel being burnt off the wire. Originally I was going to just desolder the Battery positive and put heat shrink over it, but then I started questioning the gauge of the wire used on the 510 + and the board ground. Is 18 gauge solid core wire adequate for a DNA 60 positive 510 and the ground connection? I've been looking through the Evolv datasheets and I'm left wondering, Did Evolv under or over spec the Wire for the DNA 60, DNA 75, DNA 200, and or the DNA 250, as they all have the same Specs? I'm not an electrical engineer, so any insight you can offer would be appreciated.
  9. Version 1.0.2


    DNA 60 (Deutsch - einfach) V1.0.0DNA 60 (Deutsch - einfach) V1.0.0Einfaches DNA 60 Theme auf Deutsch.
  10. Hi, Is anyone here familiar with this mod? I came across a new in box, Infinity Insider Mini, which I just purchased that runs a DNA60 off of a single 18650 (maximum configuration). The design is very reminiscent of an old Svoemesto double barrel styled mod I purchased almost a decade ago now, called the Semovar (with hybrid connector). It was based on a Nivel chip, which only allows a maximum of 15w. I had originally planned on trying to change out the board in the Svoemesto, but I honestly wanted to preserve it as a collector's item. These things was pretty epic back in the day lol. Then, I came across the Infinity. My daily vape is a Lost Vape Triade, MK RTA with dual 316SS coils, which I just run in Watt Boost mode at 65w. I've tried TC on every iteration of DNA based devices over the years on every coil material and was never a fan. Especially with the older DNA chips, TC mode just never lived up to the hype for me. I also never had issues with my SS coils in wattage mode. So my concern with the DNA60 chip in the Insider Mini is that its max output will be 5w short of my desired power level. I'd like to know if it's possible to change over to a DNA75 or better, but don't have the mod yet. Is it possible to fit anything larger inside and also change out the chip without damaging the mod? Thanks, Nick
  11. Hello fellow Modders, I'm no expert in electronics and I'm hoping someone knows how we can wire properly an LED on the DNA 60 board for lighting it up when firing the mod. Connecting it along with a resistor directly on the output to the atomizer , It Works but obviously depending on wattage selection the brightness varies and also it changes the atomizer resistance value that the board is reading. (small soldering point are not really a problem as I've already replaces the tiny LED diode of the charging board with one of my preference and it works well) If you know any other potential spots on the board with stable current when firing it and we could wire a 3V LED , I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you
  12. Version 1.0.0


  13. I got my esquare yesterday and I've been messing with it pretty much ever since. Background: I have an Alien 220 and a goon 24mm i run as my normal set up. Got a merlin mini RTA with the esquare and have been playing with them both. The alien can be finnicky with the TC, but it is pretty good about not giving me a dry hit. Materials: I'm using 24x36 single core clapton SS 316L with single coils in both my Goon and Merlin. In the Goon i tried first it with 5 wrap spaced 3.5mm twisted coil. Now i am running a single coil 6 wrap, 3.5mm spaced coil, ohming around .33-.36. On the Merlin i started with a simple 6 wrap, 3mm contact coil. Now i have a 3mm 6 wrap spaced coil in it. Both times it ohmed around .30-.34. Settings: I ran stock 316 and got whispy airy hits. Uploaded the steam engine 316L profile. Still whispy. Made a profile (we will call 316L2) with the TCR set instead, tried .000895 - .00095 with better results around .00095. 20-30W pre power, 1-.25s preheat, 5-9 punch. 375-475F. 42-60w. The situation: Now, when i first coiled and wicked the Merlin and turned the esquare on, right out of the gate i got a decent hit. Then i got a dry hit. I tried again and got another. Broke it down, the Merlin's wick was wet at the bottom but dry at the top. Simple, too much wick. Rewicked, tried again and that is when the whispy hits started. They were at least DECENT, but my alien definitely does better. Try my goon, same problem. Fiddle with temp and watts, nothing. So i pop open escribe and start reading about it. Create a 316L csv on steam engine, but nothing. Once i tried the 316L2 profile with the set TCR, i cranked up the temp to 475F and it was working better. Essentially it would kick into temp protection at like 25W max, but it went up to about 35W at 475F. Keep in mind i had prepower and power set 52-60W, but it never hit those wattages. Start fresh today. Put the second set of spaced coils into each atty. Same problem. Take off the attys after a weak hit, replace it and it asks if its a new atty (which it only does sometimes on my merlin but always on my goon). New .33 (.35 on the goon) old .31, same on both attys basically. So i take the new, freshly fired coil resistance. Now i get a hit similar to my alien, but i notice now that the TC mode isn't throttling the wattage at all and not hitting TP. On my goon with saturated coils, this is fine. But with the merlin it is giving me CONSTANT dry hits. It is firing like it's in watt mode but it's in TC mode still. I rewicked the merlin again, thinking maybe i messed up wicking again. Use even less wick and cut shorter than i had been. Still the same problem. Dry hit city. It is just awful. I am at a complete loss as to what i am doing wrong. If i wanted a VW mod that had janky TC, i woulda just gotten another alien. And there is NO WAY my alien should be doing better than my DNA60 with the exact same settings in each. But, sure enough, it is. I took the dry hitting merlin straight off the DNA and put it on my alien, and i can hit it for like 5s with no dry hit. TC hits just fine on the alien. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. If you need more info, let me know! Cheers and happy vaping! Edit: Just tried to dry hit my goon and i got it to where it would dry hit, but i didnt push it over the edge to see. I've had too many today and its making me fill icky. But i noticed the temp doesnt even get near the limit of 400F. it barely breaks 300F. It over throttles watts when its cold resistance and then doesnt throttle watts at all warm resistance. Something isn't right.
  14. Version 1.0.0


    This is my first custom theme and is intended to fit into a SteamPunk setting. I used the Steam Engine's default theme and left the logo intact, since the term can apply to any personal vaporizer, but I reworded the screens and designed them using Victorian principles, grammar and typefaces. I could not have done this without the wonderful tool provided by @Mikla here:
  15. Version 1.0.0


    font name: Electro Shackle Enjoy...
  16. Trying to swap a small screen dna40 for small screen dna60 on my jemit design maximus. Is that possible?
  17. My Esquare DNA60 is having problems doing TC with SS316L. I put in a new coil, it won't change its resistances from the last one, pop out batteries, still won't, take off atty and hit fire, still won't change. Ohms aren't locked at all and even if I move it to device diagnostics it STILL shows the last coil under live ohms for no reason. To make it worse on a 0.65ohm 26gSS316L single coil it just will continually nuke the coil with 50w-60w when the temp is set to 450f and just decimate any coil I put into it. No matter how I build, if I lock ohms or not, its just isn't doing TC correct by any measure. I've flashed the device to 3 times now and the problem is still there. Does anyone have any solutions. I bought this mod for its great TC but so far $20 mod's chip is much more reliable.
  18. HI i really need a discharge profile for Efest 18500 1100mAh Flat Top Battery for my lost vape coral dna60 of someone could help it would be great thank you
  19. im looking nice custom theme for DNA 60 small screen for my billet box DNA60w board anyone ? thanks for your help
  20. Version 1.0.0


    Smile when you vape
  21. so i just bought eptite dna 60 after 2 weeks i have an issue , when i put battrey in , on the screen show check battrey . but i put rda on it and i fireing the epetite is off so what should i do ?
  22. Need some help guys. I was recently given a Epetite DNA 60 mod and I've noticed the resistance is somewhat lower than the coil should be running. I've inserted a 7 wrap 2.5mm 28g kanthal coil on my kayfun 3 mini and have only gotten 1.07 ohms. On my DNA200 it is reading 1.31 ohms. Provari showing 1.2ohms. Can anyone here be kind enough to share the factory firmware so I am able to get it to work properly? I don't have a copper/ brass 510 pin to calibrate the device. Let me know if I'm missing something. Thanks.
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