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Found 10 results

  1. I got my esquare yesterday and I've been messing with it pretty much ever since. Background: I have an Alien 220 and a goon 24mm i run as my normal set up. Got a merlin mini RTA with the esquare and have been playing with them both. The alien can be finnicky with the TC, but it is pretty good about not giving me a dry hit. Materials: I'm using 24x36 single core clapton SS 316L with single coils in both my Goon and Merlin. In the Goon i tried first it with 5 wrap spaced 3.5mm twisted coil. Now i am running a single coil 6 wrap, 3.5mm spaced coil, ohming around .33-.36. On the Merlin i started with a simple 6 wrap, 3mm contact coil. Now i have a 3mm 6 wrap spaced coil in it. Both times it ohmed around .30-.34. Settings: I ran stock 316 and got whispy airy hits. Uploaded the steam engine 316L profile. Still whispy. Made a profile (we will call 316L2) with the TCR set instead, tried .000895 - .00095 with better results around .00095. 20-30W pre power, 1-.25s preheat, 5-9 punch. 375-475F. 42-60w. The situation: Now, when i first coiled and wicked the Merlin and turned the esquare on, right out of the gate i got a decent hit. Then i got a dry hit. I tried again and got another. Broke it down, the Merlin's wick was wet at the bottom but dry at the top. Simple, too much wick. Rewicked, tried again and that is when the whispy hits started. They were at least DECENT, but my alien definitely does better. Try my goon, same problem. Fiddle with temp and watts, nothing. So i pop open escribe and start reading about it. Create a 316L csv on steam engine, but nothing. Once i tried the 316L2 profile with the set TCR, i cranked up the temp to 475F and it was working better. Essentially it would kick into temp protection at like 25W max, but it went up to about 35W at 475F. Keep in mind i had prepower and power set 52-60W, but it never hit those wattages. Start fresh today. Put the second set of spaced coils into each atty. Same problem. Take off the attys after a weak hit, replace it and it asks if its a new atty (which it only does sometimes on my merlin but always on my goon). New .33 (.35 on the goon) old .31, same on both attys basically. So i take the new, freshly fired coil resistance. Now i get a hit similar to my alien, but i notice now that the TC mode isn't throttling the wattage at all and not hitting TP. On my goon with saturated coils, this is fine. But with the merlin it is giving me CONSTANT dry hits. It is firing like it's in watt mode but it's in TC mode still. I rewicked the merlin again, thinking maybe i messed up wicking again. Use even less wick and cut shorter than i had been. Still the same problem. Dry hit city. It is just awful. I am at a complete loss as to what i am doing wrong. If i wanted a VW mod that had janky TC, i woulda just gotten another alien. And there is NO WAY my alien should be doing better than my DNA60 with the exact same settings in each. But, sure enough, it is. I took the dry hitting merlin straight off the DNA and put it on my alien, and i can hit it for like 5s with no dry hit. TC hits just fine on the alien. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. If you need more info, let me know! Cheers and happy vaping! Edit: Just tried to dry hit my goon and i got it to where it would dry hit, but i didnt push it over the edge to see. I've had too many today and its making me fill icky. But i noticed the temp doesnt even get near the limit of 400F. it barely breaks 300F. It over throttles watts when its cold resistance and then doesnt throttle watts at all warm resistance. Something isn't right.
  2. s.pwyll

    Victorian Aesthetic

    Version 1.0.0

    177 downloads

    This is my first custom theme and is intended to fit into a SteamPunk setting. I used the Steam Engine's default theme and left the logo intact, since the term can apply to any personal vaporizer, but I reworded the screens and designed them using Victorian principles, grammar and typefaces. I could not have done this without the wonderful tool provided by @Mikla here:
  3. Version 1.0.0

    417 downloads

    font name: Electro Shackle Enjoy...
  4. Carlosestrada

    Swap dna 60 for a dna 40

    Trying to swap a small screen dna40 for small screen dna60 on my jemit design maximus. Is that possible?
  5. My Esquare DNA60 is having problems doing TC with SS316L. I put in a new coil, it won't change its resistances from the last one, pop out batteries, still won't, take off atty and hit fire, still won't change. Ohms aren't locked at all and even if I move it to device diagnostics it STILL shows the last coil under live ohms for no reason. To make it worse on a 0.65ohm 26gSS316L single coil it just will continually nuke the coil with 50w-60w when the temp is set to 450f and just decimate any coil I put into it. No matter how I build, if I lock ohms or not, its just isn't doing TC correct by any measure. I've flashed the device to 3 times now and the problem is still there. Does anyone have any solutions. I bought this mod for its great TC but so far $20 mod's chip is much more reliable.
  6. coadyv

    dna 60 18500 .csv

    HI i really need a discharge profile for Efest 18500 1100mAh Flat Top Battery for my lost vape coral dna60 of someone could help it would be great thank you
  7. im looking nice custom theme for DNA 60 small screen for my billet box DNA60w board anyone ? thanks for your help
  8. TwistedVegan

    Smiley and Dragon Themes

    Version 1.0.0

    1,496 downloads

    Smile when you vape
  9. doddy

    my dna 60 trouble

    so i just bought eptite dna 60 after 2 weeks i have an issue , when i put battrey in , on the screen show check battrey . but i put rda on it and i fireing the epetite is off so what should i do ?
  10. Need some help guys. I was recently given a Epetite DNA 60 mod and I've noticed the resistance is somewhat lower than the coil should be running. I've inserted a 7 wrap 2.5mm 28g kanthal coil on my kayfun 3 mini and have only gotten 1.07 ohms. On my DNA200 it is reading 1.31 ohms. Provari showing 1.2ohms. Can anyone here be kind enough to share the factory firmware so I am able to get it to work properly? I don't have a copper/ brass 510 pin to calibrate the device. Let me know if I'm missing something. Thanks.