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  3. Well I backed up to SP35 and it works fine
  4. In my experience, it’s not always the connection, but it is a great majority of the time, on all 3 of my DNA 250c devices. When they start acting up and throttling, I unscrew an tighten the atty a few times and it fixes it for a few days, until something (even tarnish on the brass that most 510 pins are made of) gets in there. Even some spilled or excess juice that has wicked between the mod and the base of the atty can cause it to give me grief. Moral of the story, it’s exceptionally likely that there is something going on in the connection between the board, through the wires, throu
  5. Pretty sure I know you. Im also pretty sure this board came from the first bunch. Even though its new. Im starting to wonder if it was an issue with a batch of the older boards. I swapped the 510 (both source 510's). Ive tried numerous RTA's and RDA's with different coils. Guess I will bite the bullet and replace the board and just keep this one for wattage mode
  6. Hallo und danke für den Hinweis, ich werde mich die Tage darum kümmern und das überarbeiten. Meinungen und konstruktive Kritik sind immer wichtig und gut!
  7. Every time this happens to Me it's a resistance issue. Some were between the board & the coil there is some kind of fault causing an improper resistance read by the board. Agree with all your points I to us Ti in TC & keeping the resistance reading perfectly can some times be a challenge. A gunky coil a loose retaining screw even a dirty 510 can all cause resistance issues, causing a weak hit (Throttling or Hitting Temp Control)
  8. -Check the contacts on the tank, I had a bad central screw on the tank (510 connector), replaced it with a longer one. -weak batteries -update to SP38 -Ti coil can easily exide recommended ohm range for a mod to operate (gunk = insulator) figured this out by playing with the parallel / serial coil configuration, when the ohms go beyond the working range of the mod, the mod start be erratic, throttle. But I bet on bad contacts somewhere. to point out, solid contacts + SP38 solved my problem.
  9. Does it have SP38 early release firmware on it? As far as I know they haven't pushed this into the main recommended package yet, that one comes with firmware SP35. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-early-firmware-and-escribe-suite/?do=findComment&comment=929633 This cured about 98% of the (false) throttling issues for me. Still does it from time to time, but very rare now. Interestingly, I can still induce throttling in wattage profiles by manually setting the resistance to double what it actually is.
  10. Last week
  11. Hey folks, need some help with DNA. Bought a Odin mini last week, but today, suddenly when I tried to use the mod and atty, it was hot and turned off. Since that, I can’t turn on the mod with battery only on PC (without battery). I didn’t did anything weird with the mod, just changed the battery, used the kit, and was riding. When I arrived at my girlfriend house, the mod was dead. Tried 3 different batteries on a Odin Mini but he still dead. Is there something I can do or just contact evolv / dovpo / seller?
  12. 5 different attis with 5 different coils. New 510. Its not the atti
  13. I am only reading the answer to the question I asked. I knew your answer before you replied. Your answer was this. My very first comment to you from back in August is still valid "That's a lot of mass you're trying to heat at only 31 watts" And why anyone would fuse 2 already fused claptons of dissimilar metals is beyond me. Your coil, I believe has hotspots in one of those 2 fused claptons which were probably not dry burned beforehand. Your 2nd puff, the res increased to .144, and your 3rd puff to only .122. See the flat red line on all 3 puffs, yeah, wasting time trying to heat the c
  14. no, not a person, but it was a little, the taste was weak, even the tc worked a little. Yes, even on titanium, cotton wool burns (resistance jumped). But before that I smoked on 316 stainless steel, there were norms (more than less) on firmware 33, then switched to 38 and again the taste was gone. The theme of the cp (gauges) I measured the broadside admiral clone resistance (if I did the right thing, I clamped tightly the connector of that part separately until the very end that the last one gave out and left it! I need to finish it. I bought 6mm of copper and I'm waiting for the inhabitant
  15. Were you getting a delicious taste from that vape, even though Replay and TC did not work?
  16. @steamer861That's not true 100% of the time. @dc99There was a hot fix posted a page or two back that fixed it for most people having this problem. If you've tried different coils and sure it's not your atty, try the hot fix.
  17. Throttling or hitting temp control, is Not! a board issue. It is a wicking or a coil resistance issue. Try a different atty or coil, your board should be fine
  18. Nichrome quickly warms up and the resistance is small for some reason too ,maybe because of the fact that the parallel. Well, you will explain to me how to use it all the same with parals .When the profile starts to light the wire
  19. made one coil parallel from two multi standard fusion claptons one ss316 another nichrome 80. .stim engene chose parallel added 316 + ni80 But the replay is not even included! He seems to work thermo then no. I understand that the replay can be played on different materials. Explain how to use different materials.? And is the ss-core ni80 wrapper suitable for replay? сделал один койл паралель из двух мульти стандарт фьюзд клэптон один ss316 другой нихром 80 . .стим энжейн выбрал паралель добавил 316+ni80 Но реплей даже не включается ! Он вроде рабоатет
  20. Anybody ever figure out what caused this issue before I replace a board? I have a 250C that throttles almost constantly
  21. Version 1.0.0


    Hello, Here's a customised theme for the ZQ Essent DNA 75c device. It uses the default setup as originally provided on the mod, fresh from factory. The default from ZQ Vapor is alos the Evolve default settings too. I hope you enjoy it
  22. I just got replied by forum support, The part number of original switch is KMR641NG ULC LFS Other switch in the series should work fine as well, depend how much force you need, check out here https://www.ckswitches.cn/products/switches/product-details/Tactile/KMR6/ but remeber prefix ULC LFS have different function, you can see the explanation here. https://www.ckswitches.cn/media/1907/kmr6.pdf I guess we must use ULC LFS one. Probably alot of people already know this, but for some new beginner like me still learning this, hope the info can help someone.
  23. Version 1.0.0


    Centaurus Theme DNA250c
  24. You're welcome. If you still have questions about this, you welcome to contact me anytime
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