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  3. hello everyone I'm new to the forum and if there are already similar discussions I apologize and I will delete mine i cannot find any information about DNA 100C. I've got Hyperion dna 100c by Lost Vape and I'm testin it for a review. I am looking for a technical data sheet of this product and I would like to know what differences there are between this and others dna c. thanks to all!
  4. Sounds like your eliquid may be too thin or your pods wick was a bit on the loose side causing flooding and popping. I had opposite as i’m using high vg eliquid and struggled at first to get it to wick well. I have noticed that the cotton fill is a bit variable. My first few pods the cotton was really tight in the coil- too tight. I ended up teasing out some cotton from the wick with tweezers and it worked much better. Since then i’ve had a few where the cotton seemed a bit loose but not an issue with my thicker eliquid. I think this is maybe something evolv should look at in terms of qc. They could maybe offer different options on wicking tightness for high vg or high pg liquids. I had some charging issues but they were resolved by firmware update. I love my reflex too Mark
  5. Yes, okay. But shouldn't "intuitive" user guidance mean that functions are located where the user expects them? Or guide him there in a targeted manner? With the best will in the world, I cannot imagine that a - just a new - user would come up with the idea of looking for the power bank function after "Puff Info" and then via "Reset". He will find the function somewhere after "System "or in connection with the batteries. At this position you actually hide the "Advanced Options" - my opinion. Your division offers a very suitable place: Set the item "Advanced" instead of "About" on your system screen. From the Advanced Screen you can then link the About Screen; whereby this is actually completely overrated ... For example, the "Settings => System => Brightness" path (which you also implemented) is intuitive. An advanced option for brightness is the stealth mode. Nobody would think of looking for it on the path "System => Puff-Info => Reset => Advanced => Stealth". A user who is not interested in the chart display will not reset it either - the advanced settings will remain hidden forever. BUT - apart from that, I think your two current themes are very successful in that new users in particular are not overwhelmed by the possibilities of the chipset and switching from the default theme is easy. All functions are also easy to read - which is not the case here with many themes. Basically, I like your current development.
  6. Nowhere else . It seemed to be the optimal location to place the option. The advanced screen was placed there to offer those settings without intimidating new users. Some people like to reset the stats every day while some like to do so to give a rough estimate as to coil change on sub-ohm tanks. Myself I don’t bother with resetting however I do use stealth mode.
  7. Yesterday
    I really enjoy the theme. I like the solid battery bar up top. Its easy to glance at it to see if I need to charg’e or not. I also like the menus. They are easy to navigate.
  8. Version 1.0.0

    2 downloads

    A fresh intuitive user interface with advanced options for all DNA Color devices. To reach the advanced settings go to puff info then choose reset and you will be able to reset the device statistics on the next screen as well as choose advanced options. Theme is very easy to navigate with as much information as possible on the main screen including the ability to lock the device from there. More from this series to be added soon.
  9. "To reach the advanced settings go to puff info then choose reset and you will be able to reset the device statistics on the next screen as well as choose advanced options" Yeah - that sounds really intuitive. Puff info > Reset > Advanced options. Where else?
  10. Absolutely. As long is that bolt is safe and won't move and won't touch anything on the sides.
  11. yes I'm not able to load either, I'll do what you said and then I'll give you a feedback, thank you friend! helped me a lot!!
  12. Looking at the back of the Triade DNA250C, the back right 18650 cell is the third cell. Insert bolt in that one with insulation on the sides until it is the same size as a 18650. In EScribe, select Options -> User Interface -> Manufacture. Then connect and download settings and select the Mod tab. Change from 3-cell to 2-cell and then Upload settings to Device. All done.
  13. Version 1.0.2

    24 downloads

    A fresh intuitive user interface with advanced options for all DNA Color devices. To reach the advanced settings go to puff info then choose reset and you will be able to reset the device statistics on the next screen as well as choose advanced options. Theme is very easy to navigate with as much information as possible on the main screen including the ability to lock the device from there. More from this series to be added soon.
  14. I only did it to see if it would really work like it did on paper. And it worked perfectly. Which Triade do you own? A DNA200, 250, or 250C?
  15. Last week
  16. Are you using it like this? Where do I put the screw? In one of the negative cells down?
  17. thank you for sure i want and i will do it!!
  18. Yes! You have to tell EScribe you are using 2 cells for starters. Then you have come up with a fake shorted cell and insert in the cell 3 slot (I used a 65mm long fat bolt and fit it in something like a foam sleeve). Or instead of a fake cell, move the third cell positive battery lead to the cell two positive spot. Still want to do it?
  19. I have a triad and I would like if there is any way to use it with two batteries, if there is any specific configuration in escribe
  20. It was normal threads from what I remember! It might not have been though, I remember for sure it was actually a hollow screw that threads onto that little gold post / pin I mentioned.
  21. OK so I opened up my Kylin, and did a full rebuild. I noticed a couple of things. 1) There was a spring missing from one of the screw in posts that clamps the mesh. There was a spare in the box, so I've added that. It didn't seem to fix it though. 2) The central screw pin just undoes the ceramic cotton pusher upper. Underneath it is a pin that I assume attaches to the 510 on the bottom of the mod. It seems to spin in sync with the build deck. 3) I noticed that one of the clamp / posts was black and asymmetrical to the other one. It looked like it had a bit of metal shaved out of it honestly, it just doesn't look right. I ended up swapping the posts round, and actually got stable resistance! So as of right now I am vaping on it. I have had it die on me once (resistance dropped from 0.21 to 0.19) randomly. Probably because of the extra resistance from priming the coil with juice (?) dropping off? Takes a bit to bed into the "final" resistance maybe. I still think my atomizer is busted, I'll probably buy another Kylin, I still love it and it hasn't given me a bad vape (it always works on my Vandy Vape Swell, in TC no less). No idea how a chunk is missing from the post, and no idea why swapping the posts (temporarily?) "fixed" it.
  22. I did do the "screen fix" on the reuleaux 200 way back when but it took me quite a while and I had a lot of trouble with it. I can get the mod apart fine but its the flipping the little latch and keeping it down that is difficult for me and just getting in there in general. I may just order a screen or two from Proto while they still have them and give it a go however I do worry that that $ might be better saved to go towards a replacement if the screen is going to continue to need replacing regularly but I guess there really is no telling since every screen I've had in this has had pretty varied lifespans. Board replacement is completely beyond me and after buying soldering iron, etc I'd likely be better off just buying one of the many mods floating around in good condition that cost the same or less than a new chip when I can squirrel away the cash. And, to be fair, yes its three screens but that is over about 5 years and the one before this one, which did fail in just a few months, went for ~3 years with no problems. Most other mods don't last anywhere near that long so could just be nearing the end of its life. Sad but it does happen. Circle of life. Actually longevity is one of the main reasons, aside from only using TC, that I will only purchase Evolv chipped devices. I try to take good care of my stuff and do plenty of research so I usually get many years out of a device rather than only a couple months per device as I see a lot of vapers say is commonplace for the cheaper mods. And this is certainly beyond me. lol. I appreciate the info though. I guess screen replacement might indeed be a lost cause if this is needed to fix the problem. Blue stripes were the first sign of problems with this latest screen(though not the others) Here is an updated pic. Friday and then now. We've moved on from horizontal blues to vertical whites.
  23. Successful!Now I can change firmware version as I wish!It works!Thank you
  24. No worries my good man, and now I can answer your last unanswered question Quick answer - Its so you can compare the coil Ω's between b&w and color mods. In the DNA world, it is not required, and many do not 'lock ohms' for TC vaping, which defeats 'refinement'. On a fully configured (non-color or b&w) mod, the Ω's will 'refine' (usually lower) to their resistance at 70°F On a fully configured color mod, the Ω's will be written into the mod at the current temp. BUT if you were to use that (at 70°F) option, it should be close to your b&w mod.
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