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VapingBad

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Everything posted by VapingBad

  1. I don't think that is a settings thing, your settings look fine, claptons and ss are pushing the sensing tiny changes in resistance system to and sometimes beyond the limit, I could offer several educated guesses about that around shorts between parallel paths that would not help.
  2. Should be fine using the 18650 settings, they would be so close as to not matter, but it is confusing for users and maybe a cylindrical cell setting should be put there wil help text saying which batteries it encompassed (18xxx, 26xxx, 20xxx, 21xxx).
  3. Are they old, DNAs will lower power if the battery voltage sags to the soft cut off value (default is 3.09 V designed for LiPos is high for 18650 and 2.75 V will serve you better) also a poor or dirty contact can add to the problem. This all varies with the power level you are vaping at, at very high power that is not too bad, but at low power it would be. Look at the cell values in Device Monitor while firing to get a better insight, maybe post a screen shot to get less generic advise.
  4. It will be working out the res to get a starting point and give feedback so they could show that, but using resistance ( sqrt(P(V/I)) ) to regulate when P/I would be easier, faster and more accurate: no engineer would do that. They were first to market with VW and some of the followers just measure the res to supply a fixed voltage, this is why SS with temp limiting disabled is different to mods like that. On real time regulators like DNAs you get a flat wattage, on fixed voltage regulators and mechs the power drops a bit as the coils get hot.
  5. They have implemented it on the 75C, but if I understand you correctly you are shooting for a number in volts, it would still be a fixed number in Watts, not just for that one coil and would be universal (not specific to that coil(s) resistance). I am English, we changed to the metric system in 1972 and there are still a few thing I think of in the old units, doesn't change what they are, just habit and very human, doesn't affect the real world at all (what your vape is doing), just how you understand it.
  6. No it monitors current and adjust voltage to regulate wattage, resistance measurement is not needed at all for that. You are right about Kanthal in the main part, it varies, but by so little you would never notice it. Honestly there is absolutely no need to measure res to regulate Watts, it is just a cheaper method to measure, fix and not bother regulating. And you are right that they could display it and they give that option now, but it is pointless metric for everyday use and means little unless you apply the Joule heating equations to work out the heating power watts, but why would you when that is already displayed? (Ohm's law says nothing about heat (Watts), that's Joule heating, it's formulas do tend to get bundled with Ohm's laws for convenience, it's a common misconception) ETA really not trying to needlessly find fault with your points kbrigs and I'm sure more people see it the way you do, peace and respect for caring.
  7. Not your bad at all, just saying it has never been important except in debugging and that it has not even made it into the last puff stats to illustrate that.
  8. There in no last puff - voltage field, it is under miscellaneous, they (rightly IMO) don't think it worth recording. I think they have provided it because people ask, but it has FA to do with your vape experience, temp and watts are the important parameters, in that order IMO, everything else is just virtually useless interesting detail other than for debugging except ohms which is a very useful reading to tell if everything is ship shape. Nothing wrong in being interest in the minutia and can be valuable when working through issues, but it is not going to affect your vape.
  9. No offence, but you are not getting it is not one of those mods that just measures res to work out the voltage to use, it is more sophisticated and regulates watts in real time. All Evolv products have since the Darwin have worked like that and IMO it is just that when VW was copied many cut corners to get products out the door quickly and reduce costs and just did that calc to be able to adjust a VV board in Watts. Sure they could estimate volts, bit it would not be anything the device would ever use and IMO is why they never bother to do it. ETA watch this 3 year old video at 28:37 ETA 2: Though DNAs showing resistance is not a figure that they need to work, but has always been extremely important to the user, where voltage is more academic. On the 75C you could display atomizer voltage, it is a newish field and not even a value they record for last puff because it is data rather than information (has little useful meaning on it's own without context).
  10. It could be an internal grounding issue (including battery connection), dry solder joint or similar, I doubt it is the software set up but you could try saving your config then resetting defaults, but it sound like it needs returning.
  11. Check the 510 and battery contacts are clean, the centre pin is not jammed, a physical connection issue seems to me to be the most likley cause.
  12. Check connections are sound including coil and the 510 is clean and centre pin if sprung is moving freely, try another atty if it read that correctly the problem is probably the first atty.
  13. DNAs just don't work like that, they are true variable wattage regulators and don't just measure res and fix the voltage to provide the wattage, they constantly balance the voltage and current to sustain the wattage.
  14. If you use my theme it will tell you what it is doing with regard to temp limiting, you can also easily turn it off on the mod, back up your current theme first so you can revert afterwards The best way to turn it off is to change the material type to watts or other non temp sensing material, then there is no way to turn it on again without changing material first.
  15. You just have a slightly unstable connection some, SS has such a small resistance change with temp it doesn't take much to affect temp limiting. I would start by checking the coil is tightened down well and clean the 510.
  16. Is it a small screen, they sent the first batch of small screens out with large screen firmware so they need updating the the small screen firmware.
  17. No, just turn the temp up past max on the mod to turn temp limiting off.
  18. You could try turning the preheat watts down a bit, it would reduce the battery sag. But I suspect that it is more likley the temp limiting as fused claptons are not the most stable resistance, dual coils need to be well balanced especially with SS316 because of the tiny resistance change with temperature, device monitor should show this if it is the case,
  19. Yes, if you turn temp limiting off (just adjust the temp above the max).
  20. I have been using 0.05 ohm Ni with 200, 75, 250, 167 & 75C, my favourite build without any issues. To get the exact figures you need to check the graphs in the spec sheet, but I am sure 0.13 is comfortably within the range. https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna75
  21. First page of this thread as it is a beta release so not where folks not wanting to use test software might download it unintentionally.
  22. I don't know, but sounds like a manufacturing fault with the mod, not something that you can change a setting to fix. I would contact your vendor and get a replacement.
  23. Should add the higher power you vape at affects it as well because that causes more battery sag and you hit the low cell cut off sooner. That's affects when you get the low battery warning and the power is soft-limited, not what the meter is showing.
  24. To make the battery meter more accurate, the meter on 75s has to work off battery voltage and all batteries vary a little in voltage vs % charge, not just by battery model, but also with age and condition. The curve doesn't affect performance or when the mod starts to soft limit (that's the soft cell cut-off) it's just for the battery meter. 200s and 250 have a bit more sophisticated system that does more monitoring.
  25. The numbers are good enough, I don't know what level of quality the battery is and as you probably know you will probably need to change the connection plug.
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