Wayneo

The firmware for every device of a specific 'board type' is the same across manufacturer's. As seen in the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor. Yours should say (off the top of my head) 1.2 SP5 Software customizations (logo's, themes, materials and profiles) is where they may differ, but still will work on others by different mfgrs. From DNA 60 and higher. The DNA75 is the only board with an OEM LED. The 75 Color is the only color. Edit: During your adventure, you might only have standard/default Evolv settings for your Mod Resistance, and Thermal characteristics. Compare the values to the other post you commented on yesterday. 'Mod" Tab.

My link in Post 2 was for the Mooch rated/approved vaping batteries. Personally, I'm a Sony VTC 5 OR 5A in my single cell 75, and LGHG2's or Sony VTC6'in my multi cell DNA's.

... I thought dna's needed high amp batteries That all depends on your vaping characteristics. Lower mAh, higher Amps for those vaping at higher wattages with less battery sag. Higher mAh for longer run time. Remember the amp draw is shared amongst cells. For a single battery 75, i go higher Amps and carry a spare in a silicone sleeve or container.

Good to hear, and that lower value sounds more common. TC can be finicky, usually due to the build. I mainly use 'spaced' everything, from SS to Ti01 (single coil) without issue. Therion: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters VT75 nano: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters.

That sounds normal to me, maybe I'm missing what part of what you describe is different between the Finder's and this? The resistance value is the current resistance measured value once fired, and with a TC coil the normalized/computed value at 70F. Edit: Once the battery is removed, unless plugged in beforehand, the process restarts

Is this the same device with issues from a month ago, or a replacement? I notice from the mfgr site: "If the problem is reported within 3 months after delivery, we will repair or replace your item free of charge within a reasonable period of time. For electronical mods, there is 1 year warranty provided for chips, and 6 months warranty for mechanical parts." Are you getting the "check atomizer" displayed? What value do you get for resistance on each mod?

Hold by the edges where the cable attaches to the board, light pressure, and lift straight up

Hey @Conanthewarrior, very similar to you .......... my SS316L builds were always quite solid. I also run 1.2 SP5, and the latest escribe v2. I don't drip, and clean my 510 and threads religiously. I've checked all visible screws and none needed tightening. I have JUST started having similar issues as you. My display showing 41297F for temp, and blowing me out of TC, and wrong ohms on the display. But, I can remove them, cool, and replace on a different DNA mod, and they're perfect. Unfortunately, but so far, only occurring on my efusion, and VT133. Once removed, i'll fire to get the check atomizer warning, and go back to these mods when it's time for a battery change and they work perfectly again. I thought I was going crazy

[QUOTE=Wayneo] A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. [/QUOTE] 3 or 4 tennis ball sized loops, like rabbit ears. Mod Calibration - Watch this video. /topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012 Across my slew of DNA's, they are all .002-.007

Therion: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters VT75 nano: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters, and your mod resistance seems way high. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. Mod Resistance setting - giz method Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75 Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)... Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance..

For any mod, any battery listed here https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/ Higher mAh for longer run time ...... generally.

Welcome. What you're seeing is perfectly fine and normal. The values you are seeing are the current/live values of your coil due to heat. These boards also have a feature called 'refinement' which gets disabled if you lock the ohms. Locking the ohms on a DNA board is not mandatory. From the DNA 250 datasheet Ohms display: The resistance of the atomizer attached to the device. When using a temperature sensing coil, this is the normalized resistance of the coil at 70°F Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

Can you post a printscreen (the entire screen) of your Mod tab and Device Monitor while firing. Printscreen With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer. Open a Paint software program and click on "Paste". You can change size, orientation, and etc. in the Paint software. Save this to your computer. Attach the saved file to a post here. OR (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload) OR Sniping tool AND what are these errors you've mentioned

Damn. Can you post a printscreen of your Mod tab and Device Monitor with the following boxes ticked.

26g/36g Kanthal / N80 wrapNot a TC wire. Head back to steam engine website - Ohms law this time, and tell us the output voltage for each build

@James Can you explain why, for the 1st time, there are 2 versions (U.S & International). Is it perhaps ONLY languages/localization? Thank you.

Sexy mods with many devices not setup properly by Lost Vape, and numerous complaints of their SS curve. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. The solid copper tool no longer works on 200 series boards Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75 Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)...Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance.. Run your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hours Same tab (mod) as your battery info lower down. Watch this video. /topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012 DELETE the SS material file, and load the Steam-engine version

Like when you floor the gas pedal in a car and 'all at once' reach your desired speed? Mine takes ~.38 seconds to hit 133 watts. Perfectly normal. The display is showing you 'live' values. . You can't change this in any mode. There is NO BUG, and nothing to change.

@erix222 11.1 for each vtc6 each, at best .......... but certainly not with your 3.1V cell soft cutoff. In reality, with those batteries it could be closer to around 10Wh each. Scarab is absolutely correct BUT you said '.... kinda packed to go for an Adventure into evolv headquarters for rma', so I didn't want to go there.

I think you already have that RMA, and your printscreen's show that. You also mentioned your friend with same product and issues. Maybe you can post his issues, and send 2 back at the same time to save on shipping costs. Just an idea

Thanks @retird, I think it's the 1st time you've chimed in, or your name certainly would have been included.

Well, those cells look/looked imbalanced. Battery issue. Keep an eye on that, or try charging till they're all the same value, or recovery charge which takes a long time. Isn't that the mod with those easily replaceable lipo battery packs? Post another screen shot, same as before.

TLDR; Try my Goldilocks method. Hey @sdmf74 I think VB said it best "True, but I don't think it is getting anywhere 600 F in this case" when even you get different results with your known/handbuilt coils/wire. SS being an alloy, we all know the wire composition can vary batch. We also know how honest China companies are. Are there any other TC coils you could try for that tank, or a rebuildable deck option? Other than, why not try @Chunky's suggestion of modifying the curve or a custom TCR for those coils. Here's what I'd do (as I don't have a thermoprobe, and you want to rule out a connection issue). Create a material type with a TCR value of 120 (.00120) name it tcr120, and another of 140. Load them both on your mod either in a new profile or just material type With your ohms not locked try your coil at your regular 600F with your regular profile. Let your resistance refine Change to new material type (tcr120 or tcr140) without removing atty AND also adjust/Set your temp at what you normally like/remember (4xx - 5xx) with your own wire Have a vape (still cold/weak - try higher tcr, too hot - try lower tcr), by just changing to the different profile or material immediately Now you should have an idea if you need to go to even higher values (still too cold at 140) or lower values (too hot at 120) Keep doing that until you feel you're in the ballpark. Trash your tested material profiles, and either leave what you liked as just the TCRnumber or name it Notch or whatever is meaningful to you. Final thoughts .... just run in straight wattage mode where you know it works great. For this anomaly wouldn't you want to pose your question to the coil manufacturer? If any of you guys @giz @awsum @VB @chunky think i'm off my rocker, I can delete this, just let me know (pm or publicly)

Not sure what you mean by the "29 hour problem". - That was meant for @giz. On a first look, I see nothing wrong with your settings. I'll have to ponder on this for a while

'battery info : where can i found this ?' On the battery itself ... like LG HG2, 6 months old