Wayneo

@JamesVally 'Sans' - without .... Serifs - characters with those little points on them, like say Times. Arial, and Monaco (as 2 examples of a Sans Serif) font.

Definitely Sans Serif

@JamesVally You could do your part by finding the font for that text. That's not artistic or magical, and you might get quicker/better results.

Become your inner artist. Simple to use. Theme / Screen generator

Your mod will work fine as is, without a trustable battery icon. Now I don't have one of those mods, so I don't know if there's any HCigar magic that they have done. Here's a manual way. Search for your battery type here on the forum. Download the csv and note the Wh. If that value is ~8 to 10Wh, it's more than likely a single battery file If that value is ~16 to 20Wh, it's more than likely a dual battery file If that value is ~20 to 30Wh, it's more than likely a triple battery file Find the single battery value. Double it for when it dual battery mode, triple it for 3 cell mode, Most 18650's have a complete discharged value at 2.5v. So set your cell soft cutoff value somewhere between 2.8v and 3v, wherever you feel most comfortable. Now here's how to use it when you want to go from one mode to the other Go into escribe and change to your new operating mode (2 or 3), change your battery Wh setting to match the number of cells OR Save a complete backup of a 2S mode and one of 3S mode. Load backup of new mode which will already have the 2 changes required (To me this would be a nightmare to maintain) OR Screw the battery icon, change one of the small displays to show 'Battery Pack', monitor that, and only change the number of cells. Always remembering to Upload to the device after your changes. Good luck, I'm done, I've written a book. I'm sure there are some YouTube reviews out there I won't even ask how you're going to do battery management, you know, the whole marriage thing

The firmware for every device of a specific 'board type' is the same across manufacturer's. As seen in the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor. Yours should say (off the top of my head) 1.2 SP5 Software customizations (logo's, themes, materials and profiles) is where they may differ, but still will work on others by different mfgrs. From DNA 60 and higher. The DNA75 is the only board with an OEM LED. The 75 Color is the only color. Edit: During your adventure, you might only have standard/default Evolv settings for your Mod Resistance, and Thermal characteristics. Compare the values to the other post you commented on yesterday. 'Mod" Tab.

My link in Post 2 was for the Mooch rated/approved vaping batteries. Personally, I'm a Sony VTC 5 OR 5A in my single cell 75, and LGHG2's or Sony VTC6'in my multi cell DNA's.

... I thought dna's needed high amp batteries That all depends on your vaping characteristics. Lower mAh, higher Amps for those vaping at higher wattages with less battery sag. Higher mAh for longer run time. Remember the amp draw is shared amongst cells. For a single battery 75, i go higher Amps and carry a spare in a silicone sleeve or container.

Good to hear, and that lower value sounds more common. TC can be finicky, usually due to the build. I mainly use 'spaced' everything, from SS to Ti01 (single coil) without issue. Therion: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters VT75 nano: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters.

That sounds normal to me, maybe I'm missing what part of what you describe is different between the Finder's and this? The resistance value is the current resistance measured value once fired, and with a TC coil the normalized/computed value at 70F. Edit: Once the battery is removed, unless plugged in beforehand, the process restarts

Is this the same device with issues from a month ago, or a replacement? I notice from the mfgr site: "If the problem is reported within 3 months after delivery, we will repair or replace your item free of charge within a reasonable period of time. For electronical mods, there is 1 year warranty provided for chips, and 6 months warranty for mechanical parts." Are you getting the "check atomizer" displayed? What value do you get for resistance on each mod?

Hold by the edges where the cable attaches to the board, light pressure, and lift straight up

Hey @Conanthewarrior, very similar to you .......... my SS316L builds were always quite solid. I also run 1.2 SP5, and the latest escribe v2. I don't drip, and clean my 510 and threads religiously. I've checked all visible screws and none needed tightening. I have JUST started having similar issues as you. My display showing 41297F for temp, and blowing me out of TC, and wrong ohms on the display. But, I can remove them, cool, and replace on a different DNA mod, and they're perfect. Unfortunately, but so far, only occurring on my efusion, and VT133. Once removed, i'll fire to get the check atomizer warning, and go back to these mods when it's time for a battery change and they work perfectly again. I thought I was going crazy

[QUOTE=Wayneo] A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. [/QUOTE] 3 or 4 tennis ball sized loops, like rabbit ears. Mod Calibration - Watch this video. /topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012 Across my slew of DNA's, they are all .002-.007

Therion: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters VT75 nano: Can you post a proper Printscreen of your Mod tab for starters, and your mod resistance seems way high. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. Mod Resistance setting - giz method Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75 Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)... Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance..

For any mod, any battery listed here https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/ Higher mAh for longer run time ...... generally.

Welcome. What you're seeing is perfectly fine and normal. The values you are seeing are the current/live values of your coil due to heat. These boards also have a feature called 'refinement' which gets disabled if you lock the ohms. Locking the ohms on a DNA board is not mandatory. From the DNA 250 datasheet Ohms display: The resistance of the atomizer attached to the device. When using a temperature sensing coil, this is the normalized resistance of the coil at 70°F Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

Can you post a printscreen (the entire screen) of your Mod tab and Device Monitor while firing. Printscreen With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer. Open a Paint software program and click on "Paste". You can change size, orientation, and etc. in the Paint software. Save this to your computer. Attach the saved file to a post here. OR (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload) OR Sniping tool AND what are these errors you've mentioned

Damn. Can you post a printscreen of your Mod tab and Device Monitor with the following boxes ticked.

26g/36g Kanthal / N80 wrapNot a TC wire. Head back to steam engine website - Ohms law this time, and tell us the output voltage for each build

@James Can you explain why, for the 1st time, there are 2 versions (U.S & International). Is it perhaps ONLY languages/localization? Thank you.

Sexy mods with many devices not setup properly by Lost Vape, and numerous complaints of their SS curve. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. The solid copper tool no longer works on 200 series boards Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75 Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)...Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance.. Run your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hours Same tab (mod) as your battery info lower down. Watch this video. /topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012 DELETE the SS material file, and load the Steam-engine version

Like when you floor the gas pedal in a car and 'all at once' reach your desired speed? Mine takes ~.38 seconds to hit 133 watts. Perfectly normal. The display is showing you 'live' values. . You can't change this in any mode. There is NO BUG, and nothing to change.

@erix222 11.1 for each vtc6 each, at best .......... but certainly not with your 3.1V cell soft cutoff. In reality, with those batteries it could be closer to around 10Wh each. Scarab is absolutely correct BUT you said '.... kinda packed to go for an Adventure into evolv headquarters for rma', so I didn't want to go there.

I think you already have that RMA, and your printscreen's show that. You also mentioned your friend with same product and issues. Maybe you can post his issues, and send 2 back at the same time to save on shipping costs. Just an idea