Wayneo

@hobbyquaker I'll probably just make my start page github. From 0.0.6 to 0.2.0 overnight, and now 0.4. By the New Year you could be up to v1.0 What's really interesting (SS316L, .379, 420F) is that the board, based on the linear temp ramp up, has already started throttling back the power at ~.25 seconds, sees the temp ramp drop so it blips the power back up to hit the temp, then a more gradual drop in power. Excellent work you're doing there. Are you actually sending your commands serially and waiting for the response as suggested. I can't see escribe doing it in that manner.

@ritzroscka Wait a few hours and you should be able to download once it works through their systems.

@VapingBad Just a very minor question. I was always under the impression the 200 is 97% efficiency, and the 250 @ 98%

@hobbyquaker Super thanks there!! I found and downloaded, and started using it yesterday. Works as intended and I don't need to fire up any sort of virtualization software. Slick. I've tested straight wattage mode as well as TC mode, 4 different mods ranging from 75's, 200's, and 200/133. All perfect. It would be nice to 'enable logging' and save a csv. One question .... after clicking on highcharts, how do I get back to your regular display?

YOUR CSV should be perfect for YOUR battery. Since battery life is the issue, perhaps someone should chime in on the "Cell soft cutoff" value. In the meantime you could use the "Search" option up there. ^^^^^^

Gents, while the problem is real, there was missing/vague information. First off, that photo does not match any Lost Vape product and it's certainly no Triade 3 battery mod like the video or the photo. It's a 2 battery Thinkvape Finder 167 I bet. Then again, the OP's vagueness never did say it was, nor was that ever clarified. If it is pretty new, the place of purchase would be where to start, and they should repair/replace that for you.

So I'll guess it sorta looks like this @ 450F?

Seriously, thank you. Dead easy to spot what I need to change. And I haven't written any Python before either. I'm an old old school guy .... ksh (not even bash), awk, sed, C (which was still in its infancy), Perl, and Ruby. LOL.

@VapingBad Let me be the first to say thank you for this. Very helpful, and such clean code. Just looking at your variable names I imagine that you always intended to publish it. Looking at the escribe stats, I'll probably do this myself for my batteries, and my 'mean' for puff seconds, and board efficiency for the 200 vs 75. The stuff I write for myself looks like crap. Is there documentation showing a list of all fields available to use. Please and thanks. Edit: You should actually share this with Mooch, it's so good. IMHO, as beneficial as his simulated testing.

Can I recommend a build ........... I wouldn't even try. We are all different, but I could easily vape your info in post 1 and 3. One of the main things that will affect you hitting your temp is that initial wattage, and the punch setting. Here's an example to show you what I mean, and set this as an used profile. Keep your settings, exactly 'as is' in one profile you're enjoying. In an unused profile, set your preheat to 60 watts, punch 11, and 2 seconds. Same build as you have now. (Upload to device) Using your normal settings -> With Device Monitor running, and mod sitting on the table ....... on the left click on Power, Temperature and Temperature Set. On the bottom right hand corner choose "Puff", then 4 seconds. Escribe will fire the mod for that duration. Watch the red line as it climbs to what you set. Now do the same thing AFTER changing to the more aggressive settings. Apart from a more linear increase in the test settings, you should also notice how that Power (green) curve has decreased more than half in both. It's really there just to get your coil up to temp.

@esoj413 you said "Didn't even lock the resistance", don't lock the resistance unless you have a shitty build with jumpy ohms. It's usually a build problem. Also gunking coils is usually from highly sweetened juice. If they gunked before they probably still will. That can partially be fixed by a build that heats and cools quickly so the sugars don't carmelize on the coil. As for dry burning your coils beforehand, I'd suggest a slow gentle pulse. They don't need to get red hot, just heating evenly from the middle out. Enjoy your mod.

/topic/66731-topic/?do=findComment&comment=900118 SP5A is the latest

@dnanick "...not having to set multiple profile for the number of wraps i do/Inner diameter etc. in 'Steam engine'." TC works via wire type. wraps, I.D, etc. are not relevant. Unlike the majority of other mods, on these, the best practice is also to not lock the resistance while using TC. There are only a few cases when you should. You have an atty where you're getting jumpy ohms, which in that case you need to fix your build. You're going to change your battery, and will lose the 'refinement' that the board has done (unless plugged into a USB cable).As far as profiles are concerned, there are a couple different ways people create them, either singularly or in combination (like a mix of one style or other). Some set them up by wire type, temperature, punch, pre-heat for wire type, ORSome set them up by punch, pre-heat, either more or less, then just change the wire type to match those settings.Some set them up by atty or RDA for wire type, temp, punch, pre-heat.There is no wrong way, just the way you prefer. I personally only use option 1. Welcome and enjoy your mod.

http://www.protovapor.com/product-category/diy-products/ for wire and 510. Gotta get that Evolv reference 510. The competition has some sweet button actuators, but have been dicking me around now for 14 days, and still not shipped my order.

@Dan I mis-read, my bad. Enjoy that mod.

@Dan thanks for making this fun, and welcome to the board. Cool, I love clue games. Here are 3. Are ya ready? The answer you are looking for is in the manual (250 datasheet, which you should read)It's on a Page # higher than 3, and less than 5. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250.pdfIt might just be, ............... (no using the dictionary), the penultimate paragraph.Your turn to guess. Nice mod.

Yo @fenderstrat, when you do that Device Monitor 'Print screen', can you put the (already requested) tank, coil and specs, as well. At the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor it shows the profile you're using, and a print screen of that profile would be just fab.

You folks might want to check out the true ratings for many batteries from the highly regarded and trusted mooch before buying any vaping batteries at all. Yours is not on his list, so just for future reference. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/ Cheers and hope you're enjoying your mods.

I'm mainly a 26g SS316L on all my mods (DNA's) and I find the exact same experience on all of them. I sorta standardized the screens, profiles, etc. on all, so I set my wattage at 75watts. Although right now I'm running some SS430 from Unkamen, and notice a bit quicker ramp up. The only thing I notice about that 28g SS430 (also from Unkamen) is that it is much springier than 316, and if I do more than a simple glow to remove the hot spots, I can deform the coil quite easily. They also sent along some Titanium, but I just haven't wrapped any of that up yet, as I'm very happy with SS being so tasteless and working fine. I also have some Ni 200 Aspire coils which came with tanks that I've never tried. I've got a 250 board on order, and will hopefully have some stabwood for it by the end of next week. I'll probably outfit it with a Lipo strictly because they have 2amp charging now, and no decent Reuleaux style battery sleds or 3D print options. One idea that has been brought up before, but not implemented, was to have the pre-heat set as a % greater than the wattage, which is a fantastic idea. Cheers man.

@Canadianvape If you trust Evolv, the board manufacturer, they say (taken from the manual) ".... relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance" If you lock the ohms you stop the board being able to refine the base/cold resistance by monitoring the coils temp against room temp while they cool, they do this for up to half an hour after going into idle to get the most accurate resistance reading possible. Locking res is a last resort for connection problems.

@Viruk, looks just perfect man. I see you have it set at 100watts, and look at the ramp up to your temp. Just freakin perfect. There are 2 different camps for TC. Set your wattage high (like you did, and I do), and let the board do its job. ORSet your wattage much closer to the actual usage, and play with punch and preheat.2 different ways to skin the cat, neither is wrong, just different. Now if you really want to see just how great it all is, down in the bottom right hand corner, there's a button called 'puffs'. Set your mod down, click that button (I usually just choose 4 seconds) and your mod will fire, as if you were taking a 4 second vape. Go look at that smooth line, and how few watts are required to maintain that temp. And with these boards (unlike many others) you should never lock the resistance (unless you have a shitty build)

@Viruk sounds like a plan, man! Knock on wood, I haven't had any battery issues.

@Chunky I'm sure the entire board thanks you.

On to the questions: 1. Has anyone experienced anything similar with new 18650s? Luckily no. 2. I have faith in the DNA boards safety features, but am I being naïve relying on the safety in the mod to protect me against a problem with this cell? Sorta. The DNA will protect you and itself, but having proven a dead cell with your charger, just buy one new one, so they're married. Married really only means they have been discharged the same number of times, for the exact same brand and type of battery. 3. Does anyone have any advice in this situation? Am I taking an unnecessary risk using that set of cells? Answered in 2. Buy one new LG HG2. 4. Does anyone have any explanation as to what was going on? Yeah, you have 1 dead battery. Cheers man, just wait till you have that new battery before enjoying your mod.