Wayneo

We don't know what your issue is? I you have a question/concern start a new thread so responses don't get muddled

AFTER doing everything in Post 3, and this occurs (LG's in use), 2 Printscreens please. Full Printscreen of your MOD tab (yeah I'm checking you followed Post 3) Full Device Monitor Printscreen while this occurring, with only the 4 checkboxes ticked, as shown in this image. You can also change the behavior of those errors/warnings on your screen tab if it bothers you. AND STOP SENDING ME PRIVATE MESSAGES, like I asked. Public messages helps others with this issue, and gets other knowledgable eyes on suggestions offered.

That ^^^^^ is good. I'm not a fan of this one, from it was first announced. To change from 2 to 3 cells IMHO is more trouble than it's worth and you have to go into escribe to make at least 1 change, but ideally 3. If you get a 2 cell mod, you have a 6.3V output voltage limit, so to use all of the watts, you'd need to run ~.3 ohm coil to get all the power (steam-engine for actual values With a 3 cell mod, that output voltage limit is up to 9.x volts You can download the datasheets in the shop area for each board, and those values/features are gospel no matter which company you buy from. After all that, if you're dead set against TC ..............................

YES! Apart from excellent TC with most wires, the personalization features/options are numerous. What mod do you have, and what kind of vaping do you do (builds, watts/power)

Has post 3 been completely overlooked or discounted? Any comments?

Safest thing(s) I'd suggest File -> Save As -> and save a copy of that original configuration. It'll save you for sure, someday Check you're running the latest version of escribe. Watch a few YT videos about escribe, either pbusardo or djlsbvapes Use the evolv interactive tutorial The videos and tutorial will be slightly different than your version but you'll get the gist of it. These DNAs are all about personalization.

If you're not gonna read, I'm not gonna type

Battery analyzer really just gives you an accurate estimation of how much your batteries are charged/discharged. Your mod will fire perfectly fine leaving it at default. IMHO the cell soft cutoff is very important. The 75 has a hard cutoff of 2.5V UNDER LOAD (sag). I and many others use 2.7-2.9v with the lower value giving you slightly more run time before 'Check battery' warnings. With a single cell 75, I value Amperage over mAh. In a dual or more cell, I'll go with high mAh.

Straight 75, or 75 Color? Go to file -> save as, and save a copy of the original configuration. Check your mod is running the latest firmware. Check out some YT video reviews

Yes, use the same file

I'm not sure if it is in firmware or software, because the OG 75 still works with AA. If they could identify their code differences, and let us know if it's hardware, firmware, or software A few years ago (Mac/UNIX guy here) I actually patched and rebuilt my kernel for two different USB to serial drivers, one being the Prolific PL2303 to allow older devices to run on current software. IIRC all I had to do was enter/edit the ID. This way we could at least use it on our 250s Somehow it should be as simple on the Windows side to edit in these new device IDs, and recompile the February executable ......... as an ugly but functional workaround, or fix Atomizer analyzer.

Sorry pal, for now you gotta follow the 'giz' method. FOR ME, the last working version for the 2xx series boards was late February 2016. Once 1.2 SP3 was released I started getting the ? PS, the 250 did not work for me (USB drivers) with that older version.

@milo_natty you said -> just incase... I have found that correcting the internal resistance to .011 improved the accuracy of TC. Then you said -> I just rechecked my sources and infact .0011 is the corrected internal resistance that was relayed to me Then you said, after a complete order of magnitude error, info was 'relayed' to you, (hence my asking how you came up with that value) Not all 316L is the same. <- TRUE, and can vary by batch even from the same manufacturer. (even if in theory it is supposed to be.) <- NO. Not a theory at all. It's an alloy. Here's the kicker -> ... is very concise and dedicated to making sure his info is accurate before making suggestions as do I YOU might lock the resistance on your Kayfun v4 for best results, due to it's construction with 3 million pieces, but that's not the Evolv default or standard. Read up or search 'refinement', but there are much more efficient ways to achieve those same results. FYI, I'm running a Kayfun v5, no gyrations, and the vape is heavenly. Good accurate TC is not meant to be hard. Have a good day.

Because LV's is just plain wrong and why I suggested this .... without naming names. From your excellent Printscreen's move your preheat punch value to 11, and work slowly backwards to the ramp up you prefer. And finally a complete Printscreen from 'Device Monitor' with Power, power set, cold ohms, live ohms, and the 2 temperature options, while firing. Finally follow @retird info to set your mod resistance

What is the value for your mod resistance? If it zero, you should set that.

Knowing that a lower more conservative value or 0 is better than a higher number than actual ...... That's quite high as far as most mods go, not saying it's wrong, just seems high. How did you come up with that value?

With all respect, I vehemently disagree with this post. All USB devices draw the current/power they want/need from the charging source. A high quality charger and cable are the 2 most important factors. I personally trust chargers from higher end mobile devices such as Samsung and Apple, even the 4A chargers. Don't trust your end devices to some cheap no-name charger to save a few bucks.

Before we start .......... MOD tab -> Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture Can you post a complete Printscreen of that mod tab ensuring you have scrolled to the bottom of the screen. Printscreen of the Profile you're using And finally a complete Printscreen from 'Device Monitor' with Power, power set, cold ohms, live ohms, and the 2 temperature options, while firing. Trash whatever 'material' files were on the mod, and download your own from steam-engine (like I believe you did). Couple things about DNA mods You should not lock your resistance unless you have a janky build or connection Your coils before vaping should be at the ambient temperature

What options are acceptable to you? How's this one: Find a local modder via a FB group or ask at your local vape store if they can diagnose and repair.

For TC you're talking, right? Your thoughts are correct, and luckily I've never had to lock. But, have you checked that your thermal values and mod resistance are set correctly? When you go and lock your ohms when it's working, you stop refinement. Could it be that your coils are made from different batches of SS (being an alloy) they're not all the same?

Yes, for the most part, your settings are now current, and fine (except for your mod resistance which is not relevant for this). Much wiser to work with your vendor then manufacturer before opening it up.

Make sure that bottom battery screw is firmly snug, not Superman tight.

Sounds like a battery connection wiring or grounding issue. Can you check any external screws around the battery compartment Showing .2V yet, in an earlier post your battery showed ~4v?

Then another printscreen of device monitor while firing. Lose the board temp tick, add the green 'power' tick.

Follwed by, or also update your firmware. In your 1st screen shot in dark blue, it says to upload