Wayneo

Welcome. What you're seeing is perfectly fine and normal. The values you are seeing are the current/live values of your coil due to heat. These boards also have a feature called 'refinement' which gets disabled if you lock the ohms. Locking the ohms on a DNA board is not mandatory. From the DNA 250 datasheet Ohms display: The resistance of the atomizer attached to the device. When using a temperature sensing coil, this is the normalized resistance of the coil at 70°F Resistance lock: The DNA 250 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance. To do so, while locked hold both the Fire and Up buttons for two seconds to enter Resistance Lock mode. In this mode, the DNA 250 will use the present atomizer cold resistance without refinement until the atomizer is disconnected or the resistance lock is disabled. A lock symbol will replace the ohm symbol on the display. To disable resistance lock, repeat the procedure to lock it.

Can you post a printscreen (the entire screen) of your Mod tab and Device Monitor while firing. Printscreen With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer. Open a Paint software program and click on "Paste". You can change size, orientation, and etc. in the Paint software. Save this to your computer. Attach the saved file to a post here. OR (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload) OR Sniping tool AND what are these errors you've mentioned

Damn. Can you post a printscreen of your Mod tab and Device Monitor with the following boxes ticked.

26g/36g Kanthal / N80 wrapNot a TC wire. Head back to steam engine website - Ohms law this time, and tell us the output voltage for each build

@James Can you explain why, for the 1st time, there are 2 versions (U.S & International). Is it perhaps ONLY languages/localization? Thank you.

Sexy mods with many devices not setup properly by Lost Vape, and numerous complaints of their SS curve. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. The solid copper tool no longer works on 200 series boards Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75 Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)...Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance.. Run your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hours Same tab (mod) as your battery info lower down. Watch this video. /topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012 DELETE the SS material file, and load the Steam-engine version

Like when you floor the gas pedal in a car and 'all at once' reach your desired speed? Mine takes ~.38 seconds to hit 133 watts. Perfectly normal. The display is showing you 'live' values. . You can't change this in any mode. There is NO BUG, and nothing to change.

@erix222 11.1 for each vtc6 each, at best .......... but certainly not with your 3.1V cell soft cutoff. In reality, with those batteries it could be closer to around 10Wh each. Scarab is absolutely correct BUT you said '.... kinda packed to go for an Adventure into evolv headquarters for rma', so I didn't want to go there.

I think you already have that RMA, and your printscreen's show that. You also mentioned your friend with same product and issues. Maybe you can post his issues, and send 2 back at the same time to save on shipping costs. Just an idea

Thanks @retird, I think it's the 1st time you've chimed in, or your name certainly would have been included.

Well, those cells look/looked imbalanced. Battery issue. Keep an eye on that, or try charging till they're all the same value, or recovery charge which takes a long time. Isn't that the mod with those easily replaceable lipo battery packs? Post another screen shot, same as before.

TLDR; Try my Goldilocks method. Hey @sdmf74 I think VB said it best "True, but I don't think it is getting anywhere 600 F in this case" when even you get different results with your known/handbuilt coils/wire. SS being an alloy, we all know the wire composition can vary batch. We also know how honest China companies are. Are there any other TC coils you could try for that tank, or a rebuildable deck option? Other than, why not try @Chunky's suggestion of modifying the curve or a custom TCR for those coils. Here's what I'd do (as I don't have a thermoprobe, and you want to rule out a connection issue). Create a material type with a TCR value of 120 (.00120) name it tcr120, and another of 140. Load them both on your mod either in a new profile or just material type With your ohms not locked try your coil at your regular 600F with your regular profile. Let your resistance refine Change to new material type (tcr120 or tcr140) without removing atty AND also adjust/Set your temp at what you normally like/remember (4xx - 5xx) with your own wire Have a vape (still cold/weak - try higher tcr, too hot - try lower tcr), by just changing to the different profile or material immediately Now you should have an idea if you need to go to even higher values (still too cold at 140) or lower values (too hot at 120) Keep doing that until you feel you're in the ballpark. Trash your tested material profiles, and either leave what you liked as just the TCRnumber or name it Notch or whatever is meaningful to you. Final thoughts .... just run in straight wattage mode where you know it works great. For this anomaly wouldn't you want to pose your question to the coil manufacturer? If any of you guys @giz @awsum @VB @chunky think i'm off my rocker, I can delete this, just let me know (pm or publicly)

Not sure what you mean by the "29 hour problem". - That was meant for @giz. On a first look, I see nothing wrong with your settings. I'll have to ponder on this for a while

'battery info : where can i found this ?' On the battery itself ... like LG HG2, 6 months old

And 'Battery info' and how long have you been using them

@sdmf74 YES, I use Aspire Triton and Cleito SS .4 premade coils succesfully in temp mode, the warmth I get from them matches my use of Ti coils at the same temp. Also closely matches when I 'roll my own' coils with 316L or 430. Is this ".... evolv 316l tcr with the LV wire" the material profile you're using for them? @giz That 'Aspire' in post 1 is actually what caught my eye first. Of all my posts, I only ever posted 1 Topic, which was about these coils. Without making assumptions I'm leaning towards that 29 hour problem Edit: spelling

Also remove that original 316 from all profiles, then delete it. There's very little difference between straight and the L. Material is wire specific, not coil size, etc.

Complete Super solid post, but didn't wanna go there ^^^^^, seeing as how we're Evolv-ing.

No worries man. We'll help you determine if it's a board fault. The worst case scenario is that you'll need to send either the mod or the board to (Evolv) in the USA. Have a good one. Printscreens much cleaner, clear and all info, not pictures

I'm with @Saint_VB and @awsum. Pick one of your mods with this issue and post a couple full Printscreens (Mod tab, Material tab with wire type highlighted, profile you use) and finally Device Monitor while firing. Power, power set, temp, temp set, cold ohms, live ohms ticked. Guy, seriously? Pick any temperature, and your vape should have the same warmth WITH ANY WIRE TYPE. The OP is already here '600f and getting a weak vape' that's the issue.

NO, you bought a ThinkVape productYour 1st contact should be your place of purpose, followed by Thinkvape. If it's determined to be a board issue and no help from them, then Evolv. Anger is understandable, but you're misdirecting it. Tell Gearbest you're angry, we're here to help you. Can you post a full proper screenshot (not a video or cell phone picture) of Device Monitor, and a screenshot of the 'Mod' tab

On another side note... Do you still have that 'resistance locked' in the profile? It stops the board from working half its magic, and IMHO mainly effective for shoddy builds with jumpy ohms Refinement - DNA 75 Datasheet, Page 6, under 'Resistance lock'

Hey @Little Brat, might I suggest you only do as asked, and not venture off doing your own thing as it makes things more difficult. You're screenshots are our eyes, and our requests ... your fingers. Here's an example. In your post #3, look at your wattages and 'ohms lock' [QUOTE=Little Brat] [/QUOTE] Then when requested a second time, you actually made changes (Post 31), albeit only a 2.5 watt decrease, but now the ohms are locked. A change, perhaps to preserve and retain the value, if in between was when you did the drone screenshot [QUOTE=Little Brat] [/QUOTE] You'll be all fixed up relatively quickly my good man. The DNA's can seem quite daunting at times. In the hands of anyone that commented here, I'd say less than 10 minutes. Others working as our fingers adds time naturally. Have a good night.

Clearly the wrong wire profile. That ending value at 800F should be close to a value of 1.33 (off the top of my head). Easy fix @Little Brat. I'll let giz finish up.

Thanks @giz, I was on mobile. @Mustafa once you're done report back with your thoughts on the ease of doing this so others will learn from your experience. Sorry if I sounded harsh.