Wayneo

And 'Battery info' and how long have you been using them

@sdmf74 YES, I use Aspire Triton and Cleito SS .4 premade coils succesfully in temp mode, the warmth I get from them matches my use of Ti coils at the same temp. Also closely matches when I 'roll my own' coils with 316L or 430. Is this ".... evolv 316l tcr with the LV wire" the material profile you're using for them? @giz That 'Aspire' in post 1 is actually what caught my eye first. Of all my posts, I only ever posted 1 Topic, which was about these coils. Without making assumptions I'm leaning towards that 29 hour problem Edit: spelling

Also remove that original 316 from all profiles, then delete it. There's very little difference between straight and the L. Material is wire specific, not coil size, etc.

Complete Super solid post, but didn't wanna go there ^^^^^, seeing as how we're Evolv-ing.

No worries man. We'll help you determine if it's a board fault. The worst case scenario is that you'll need to send either the mod or the board to (Evolv) in the USA. Have a good one. Printscreens much cleaner, clear and all info, not pictures

I'm with @Saint_VB and @awsum. Pick one of your mods with this issue and post a couple full Printscreens (Mod tab, Material tab with wire type highlighted, profile you use) and finally Device Monitor while firing. Power, power set, temp, temp set, cold ohms, live ohms ticked. Guy, seriously? Pick any temperature, and your vape should have the same warmth WITH ANY WIRE TYPE. The OP is already here '600f and getting a weak vape' that's the issue.

NO, you bought a ThinkVape productYour 1st contact should be your place of purpose, followed by Thinkvape. If it's determined to be a board issue and no help from them, then Evolv. Anger is understandable, but you're misdirecting it. Tell Gearbest you're angry, we're here to help you. Can you post a full proper screenshot (not a video or cell phone picture) of Device Monitor, and a screenshot of the 'Mod' tab

On another side note... Do you still have that 'resistance locked' in the profile? It stops the board from working half its magic, and IMHO mainly effective for shoddy builds with jumpy ohms Refinement - DNA 75 Datasheet, Page 6, under 'Resistance lock'

Hey @Little Brat, might I suggest you only do as asked, and not venture off doing your own thing as it makes things more difficult. You're screenshots are our eyes, and our requests ... your fingers. Here's an example. In your post #3, look at your wattages and 'ohms lock' [QUOTE=Little Brat] [/QUOTE] Then when requested a second time, you actually made changes (Post 31), albeit only a 2.5 watt decrease, but now the ohms are locked. A change, perhaps to preserve and retain the value, if in between was when you did the drone screenshot [QUOTE=Little Brat] [/QUOTE] You'll be all fixed up relatively quickly my good man. The DNA's can seem quite daunting at times. In the hands of anyone that commented here, I'd say less than 10 minutes. Others working as our fingers adds time naturally. Have a good night.

Clearly the wrong wire profile. That ending value at 800F should be close to a value of 1.33 (off the top of my head). Easy fix @Little Brat. I'll let giz finish up.

Thanks @giz, I was on mobile. @Mustafa once you're done report back with your thoughts on the ease of doing this so others will learn from your experience. Sorry if I sounded harsh.

Mustafa, on your battery tab you'll see Battery analyzer. Start with close to fully charged batteries. Create about a .5 ohm coil. Best to use 4 or so tennis ball sized loops of wire. Start the test, at 40 watts. In less than an hour, the testing will finish. You then need to save and load. Dead easy, and the absolute most accurate values for your mod and your batteries. Cheers.

@Mustafa After asking this again and again over a 5 week period, you could have run your own Battery Analyzer 4,312 times. I takes .... maybe an hour, tops. It will be accurate for whatever battery they re-wrapped.

That could be because one or both mods were not tuned by LV (mod resistance an thermals), or your therion is bumping into the 6V Output Voltage limit.

IMHO your thoughts are completely backwards, but understandable as there's been so much back and forth wandering/waffling/drivel by so many. Heck, who the hell am I? "was running it at .004 which is what I am using on my other DNA devices for the most part, but after reading it today I set it to .009 and it is still working fine. I also tried .011 and a little higher and it wasn't stable. .009 seems about right." You can't just ballpark it when we're talking such small value differences. And you've now moved it from a lower value to a higher value. A lower conservative value is better than a higher value. "... but your temp reading will probably be lower than it would be to get a similar vape with a better tuned unit" Not sure what you're really trying to say here. With a mod resistance of say 0, and a user setting of say 400F, the actual temp would be higher at the coil. " .... You will start getting erratic results or TC failure when you are either exactly" Interesting, who said this? Evolv had always recommended a conservative value, somewhere @ 80% of the measured value till we got the copper tool, which no longer works on the 2xx boards. Edit : Found an excellent thread on this. Posts 8 and 11 (Point 2), both from Evolv are excellent and IMHO validate my thoughts (I hope) https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239

BUT you'll never see it UNTIL you turn UP your charging Brightness !

Yo @Amirulmukmiinin Are you trying to use this in TC mode ? If it's just jumpy ohms, check the build with Atomizer Analyzer.

Same form factor and right down to Lipo, except the 200 board. https://vapenw.com/review/product/list/id/15835/

Your battery voltage - black line shows that 'dip' while firing. Value at the lowest point Yes, sexy mods with many devices not setup properly by Lost Vape, and numerous complaints of their SS curve. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)...Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance.. Run your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hours Same tab (mod) as your battery info lower down. Your 2nd Printscreen, heading "Thermal" Beforehand, watch this video./topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012

@imfallen_angel In your 1st Device Monitor screen, it shows your room temp ~68F, board temp ~117F, that's about 50F difference, probably from the batteries. If you could do another print screen, and put that movable vertical where it shows the most sag, and report to us that value. The mod resistance is on your battery tab showing .004 which is a perfectly respectable value if it is correct. Although the Mfgr should set it, and perhaps they did, it doesn't mean it's correct for your individual mod. Quick 5 minutes for you to validate. "I did the mod resistance test, which is part of why I locked it ..." I think you meant you locked the coil ohms/resistance lock. The last 2 lines of my post were a direct copy/paste from the DNA75 datasheet published by Evolv. I trust their words and have never locked my resistance ever. "I already tried the Steam engine profile, the default and the 0.00092 value with absolutely no success" So many moving pieces from your posts, I'm attempting to start you from square one with a solid setup. You really do need to run your own 'thermal characteristics' for TC to work accurately. Either you wiped reset them to defaults, or Lost Vape never populated the values. Either way, doing your own, while 3 hours is long, will be the most accurate. I've done it for each of my DNA's. "Where I run the same tank/build on a chinese mod at 340F, on the Therion I have to be over 500F... that's way too much a difference to be "not as accurate" here." I agree with you. It is crazy, but not hopeless. Your mod seems fairly new (less than 1000 puffs), and probably still within Lost Vapes 6 month warranty, but I think it's too early to call it a faulty mod. So ..... do you wanna get it done right, or you happy with "At least right now, it appear to be stable with the settings I have on it" Edit: "But one thing I can say is that after just a little while (maybe 1/2 an hour of vaping), my batteries (that I left in the Therion overnight to charge) are already down to about ½." And you're sure these are new Authentic LG's? I vape at double your wattage on the same batteries for much longer on all my mods.

Well your mod thermal characteristics are "evolv's" defaults (not set up, or you reset them) Your batteries probably some old ones and heating up under load (50F in the first pic) and is running out of power or hit the soft cell cutoff. AND you're locking your resistance so the board cannot refine the cold ohm value My suggestions: Buy new batteries from the Mooch approved listRun your own 'mod resistance' - 5 minutesRun your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hoursDownload 316L profile from Steam Engine, or use the evolv default or Djlsb value of .00092DO NOT LOCK OHMS if your resistance is solid. If they're jumpy, fix your build.Resistance lock: The DNA 75 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance

Thanks man, I knew I forgot to mention that

Alrighty then, so it looks like your coil needs somewhere around what your 'power' line shows (inverted green 'v') to maintain that temp. If that's sort of YOUR typical coil build, you can lower those maximums to more reasonable values. If you don't want as quick a ramp up, lower your punch slowly till you find your sweet spot. Once you set your 'thermal' calibration, it gets even more consistent

@VapePanther do ya mind 1 last DM print screen for sh17s and giggles If you're getting nic'd out ... rest mod beside you ... bottom right hand corner .... puff for 4 second.

@VapePanther You posted profile 1 which looks good for TC. Your Device Monitor showed you were using Profile 2. Please Device Monitor while firing showing Profile 1