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Everything posted by Wayneo

  1. Is your 510 positive pin springy now? Does your mod see that atty now? I clean my wire before a dry burn, or I pulse clapton wire before use to burn off any oils. Once coiled, l smell the coil during that pulse till they smell clean. Once there is cotton in the coil, I add juice, still at a low watts till the coil is saturated. Then I put on the barrel of the tank/RTA/RDA, fill and vape. I do not see your yellow or black.
  2. Really hate to beat a dead horse BUT I don't think I've helped you, even the tiniest bit to get to the root of your issue. I don't think my mouth and lungs could handle 600°F, but we're all different. 🙂 In the past, needing to turn temps up that high can be due to a material(wire) mismatch. As far as custom material profiles, it's the odd time one needs to be created. Your success is based on some other post you've read, not me. Could you at least post the link to that post?
  3. After using these boards/mods in TC for 5 years, things change. So long as it's working for you, then it's all good. Enjoy your mod. 👋 So after all you did, which of those changes fixed the issue?
  4. Sure, let's see 2 printscreens. One of your non working material file. One of the profile number you're using that does not work. Edit: Can you actually describe the coil. Core material and wrap (if a clapton)
  5. I have a feeling that you pushed the insulator downward a bit with that threaded rod and now this atty with the shortest 510 no longer makes contact. Can you feel any movement in that spring loaded 510 positive pin? You might need to unscrew the 510 to fix it. No photos attached! But your mod will still fire with no cotton or liquid even if it's in TC.
  6. Not sure if you might need Escribe SP24 which is available on the main www page. WINDOWS ONLY at this time. 🙃
  7. My only suggestion would be for you to open an official support ticket and ask Evolv. I don't have one. Then, if you don't mind you could update us all here. 🙂 Help desk link in my signature ⬇
  8. No, there has never been VV on any escribe capable DNA mod.
  9. Open a ticket. No need to buy another board or mod at this point. Your DM screenshot does NOT lead me to believe it's a board issue.
  10. Yup, not a battery problem. Open a trouble ticket with the Help Desk. Link in my signature Unless you want to rip it apart yourself and diagnose the issue further.
  11. Thanks. Perfect. And now if you were to swap cell positions in the mod?
  12. More info needed. Are you the original purchaser? Can you start up escribe, go into Device Monitor. Only click on (enable) Cell 1, Cell 2, Power Take a puff. Scroll back to where the puff data is, take a screen shot/capture. Post that here.
  13. Short answer, No. Longer answer For LiPo's you got a few ways to think. Buy battery to match your enclosure size OR Buy enclosure to match your battery size At a minimum it also needs to house the board and wires. Using @VapingBad's post in the link, you'd still want an input current ~35 amps.
  14. Buy a 250 board and replace board. IIRC it's close to a drop in replacement
  15. @Reda Looks like your battery management chip is blown there. Other than replacing that blown chip it's a sad day for you and that mod. At ~220K puffs, it's lived a good life.
  16. Escribe - Device Monitor - Reset statistics (Down near the bottom right hand corner). That will reset current puffs to zero. The grand total cannot be reset to zero.
  17. You need to use the 'Theme Designer', find the screen where it is, then the field you want to remove. Delete the 'field', save and upload to your mod.
  18. Hey, I NEVER said this, but I do agree with it. And I NEVER said this That photo of Stainless Steel is not a simple single wire, and it will require more watts than one strand of 26 gauge Stainless. Straight watts. Single coil. 24 or 26 awg wire (material). ⬆ DO NOT DO THIS! ⬆ Straight watts. Single coil. 24 or 26 awg wire (material).
  19. Canada, so plain generic English. Straight watts. Single coil. 24 or 26 awg wire (material).
  20. You have made MANY WRONG assumptions and choices. Titanium resistance DOES AND SHOULD increase when power is applied. 28 watts for those high mass SS claptons were a poor choice in your very first post You still need a basic understanding of what you are doing. Temperature control is an advanced topic and you should learn to vape in straight watts with a simple single wire first. Kanthal or Nichrome or Stainless steel. Then move on to Replay with your Stainless steel. Straight watts - Use your single coil atomiser. just increase or decrease watts until you get a good flavorful v
  21. Is that your only mod? STOP pressing that button constantly. You only need to check the resistance of your build once, with your mod and atomizer both at ambient (room) temperature. That big red X picture shows you issued a reboot command that worked. Look at the top line, it shows rebooted.WHY did you do that?
  22. Your video did not work. So I do not know anything new. If you are only clicking the center 'select' button to re-measure the ohms I do not think it is normal because that is done at very low watts. If you are using the 'fire' button, it could be normal. WHY ARE YOU CONTINUALLY CHECKING THE RESISTANCE? English is my only language. 🙂 English : I have a question why I can't reload the mod partially or completely through the program? It gives an error that it is impossible to type errors What are you trying to reload, and why? And what error?
  23. Shouldn't matter with N80, but I'd do it before. Let us know if the ohms fluctuates, and how much. Did this always happen, since new?
  24. I do not understand the bolded text, but it is normal for Titanium 1 to increase the resistance more than that while in use. That coil only raised in temperature to ~90°C which is still below the boiling point of water. And yes, it should decrease. There should already be a profile for Titanium 1 on your mod. You can use that. I do not understand this at all. It might be easier if you write in Russian, and I will use a translator.
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