Wayneo

BUT you'll never see it UNTIL you turn UP your charging Brightness !

Yo @Amirulmukmiinin Are you trying to use this in TC mode ? If it's just jumpy ohms, check the build with Atomizer Analyzer.

Same form factor and right down to Lipo, except the 200 board. https://vapenw.com/review/product/list/id/15835/

Your battery voltage - black line shows that 'dip' while firing. Value at the lowest point Yes, sexy mods with many devices not setup properly by Lost Vape, and numerous complaints of their SS curve. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)...Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance.. Run your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hours Same tab (mod) as your battery info lower down. Your 2nd Printscreen, heading "Thermal" Beforehand, watch this video./topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012

@imfallen_angel In your 1st Device Monitor screen, it shows your room temp ~68F, board temp ~117F, that's about 50F difference, probably from the batteries. If you could do another print screen, and put that movable vertical where it shows the most sag, and report to us that value. The mod resistance is on your battery tab showing .004 which is a perfectly respectable value if it is correct. Although the Mfgr should set it, and perhaps they did, it doesn't mean it's correct for your individual mod. Quick 5 minutes for you to validate. "I did the mod resistance test, which is part of why I locked it ..." I think you meant you locked the coil ohms/resistance lock. The last 2 lines of my post were a direct copy/paste from the DNA75 datasheet published by Evolv. I trust their words and have never locked my resistance ever. "I already tried the Steam engine profile, the default and the 0.00092 value with absolutely no success" So many moving pieces from your posts, I'm attempting to start you from square one with a solid setup. You really do need to run your own 'thermal characteristics' for TC to work accurately. Either you wiped reset them to defaults, or Lost Vape never populated the values. Either way, doing your own, while 3 hours is long, will be the most accurate. I've done it for each of my DNA's. "Where I run the same tank/build on a chinese mod at 340F, on the Therion I have to be over 500F... that's way too much a difference to be "not as accurate" here." I agree with you. It is crazy, but not hopeless. Your mod seems fairly new (less than 1000 puffs), and probably still within Lost Vapes 6 month warranty, but I think it's too early to call it a faulty mod. So ..... do you wanna get it done right, or you happy with "At least right now, it appear to be stable with the settings I have on it" Edit: "But one thing I can say is that after just a little while (maybe 1/2 an hour of vaping), my batteries (that I left in the Therion overnight to charge) are already down to about ½." And you're sure these are new Authentic LG's? I vape at double your wattage on the same batteries for much longer on all my mods.

Well your mod thermal characteristics are "evolv's" defaults (not set up, or you reset them) Your batteries probably some old ones and heating up under load (50F in the first pic) and is running out of power or hit the soft cell cutoff. AND you're locking your resistance so the board cannot refine the cold ohm value My suggestions: Buy new batteries from the Mooch approved listRun your own 'mod resistance' - 5 minutesRun your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hoursDownload 316L profile from Steam Engine, or use the evolv default or Djlsb value of .00092DO NOT LOCK OHMS if your resistance is solid. If they're jumpy, fix your build.Resistance lock: The DNA 75 relies on the cold resistance of the atomizer to measure temperature accurately. If the connection is not stable or if you find the measured resistance drifts with time, it may be desirable to lock the atomizer resistance

Thanks man, I knew I forgot to mention that

Alrighty then, so it looks like your coil needs somewhere around what your 'power' line shows (inverted green 'v') to maintain that temp. If that's sort of YOUR typical coil build, you can lower those maximums to more reasonable values. If you don't want as quick a ramp up, lower your punch slowly till you find your sweet spot. Once you set your 'thermal' calibration, it gets even more consistent

@VapePanther do ya mind 1 last DM print screen for sh17s and giggles If you're getting nic'd out ... rest mod beside you ... bottom right hand corner .... puff for 4 second.

@VapePanther You posted profile 1 which looks good for TC. Your Device Monitor showed you were using Profile 2. Please Device Monitor while firing showing Profile 1

That is your profile 2

Yup, same here

I just did my 250 using the 'giz' method and measured a solid .003 (Atty, coil, and method validated on 2 mods prior)

Doesn't your body/head give you a built in puff limit? A normal cigarette lasted me 8-10 minutes, and after that I was done. Now, with my nicotine level set appropriately, I lose my 'craving' after the same 10 minutes or so. 'Or so' meaning that I no longer have to continually puff because there's no tobacco burning away without being inhaled. If I vape after more than 'that cigarette' my head will start to hurt/buzz/tingle.

Answer here: https://goo.gl/csaLSR

Stolen from 2 of the finest on here: With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer.Open a Paint software program and click on "Paste".You can change size, orientation, and etc. in the Paint software.Save this to your computer.Attach the saved file to a post here. OR (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload)

And maybe check that USB charging has not been disabled on the device.

Of my 6 different brands all have been set, including LostVape Efusion Duo, just lucky I guess. (I run my own anyway)

Off Topic: Did ya'll notice the default mod thermal settings also? Are the mfgr's really this lax and not doing this, or is it new users happy with a hard reboot? (I notice there were no resets of the data in his screen shots)

Here's a quality 'smaller' sled 2@18650 that many modders rave about. http://bit.ly/2nitzk5 $4.25. He's even got 20700 sleds (If you didn't have all those 18650's)

".... not something we would warranty, however we do have replacement screens available here on our website." For purchase

Not remotely relevant, but that phantom 3rd cell 'display' was fixed a few updates back in Escribe.

Thanks @LeeWB3. We're all good, I'm just trying to help, and my post was just intended to get my noodle to my starting point. @dwcraig is much more knowledgable than I, but I'll re-read everything again, post coffee, to see if I have any thoughts.

@LeeWB3 You described a large surface are coil that showed it was not even hitting your set temp AT ALL in 6 screen puffs. I only suggested a much higher wattage so we/you could actually see the power required to get there. The speed getting there is a balancing act between the other parameters, and I'm quite sure you've been told that.At no point did I even remotely insinute this: so to be argumentative you then go on to describe a completely different coil I take it you're having a bad day. Relax man.And as you say why not just ask what the fix was.Have a good day, I hope you solve your issues .... whatever they are. My comments are obviously of no value to you, so I won't be reading or replying.

So from all of that and your print screens, neither mod is hitting the temperature you've set.You describe a claptionized coil, which IMHO needs much more than ~30 watts for initial heating. I'd suggest you set both mods to at least 100w and do some print screens at that setting. Couple more things. Let each mod and atty sit for 5-10 minutes before using in TC so we're sure you're using a room temp mod and atty. Also, please include a print screen of your profile setting. You're at least half way there. Edit: if your concern is Mod Calibration, what is the current setting for Mod resistance of each?