Wayneo

Welcome @flo_46 Why don't you return it to your place of purchase for a replacement? BTW, if the 'down' button makes the wattage go 'up', what does pressing the 'up' button do?

I got mine from unkamen. 28g. I find it very springy, so I always straighten it with a drill, then make a 3 simple twisted spaced coil. I believe I just used the djlsbvapes TCR (SS430: 0.00138) for the 'material'.

Hah, my SMY SDNA75 also lived a severe service life in the hands of my wife. I've rescued it and it's still in surprisingly good condition. I'm very surprised the rubberized finish still looks mint. My VT133 has the cheapest paint quality on the battery door and looks like a beater, but the body is fine. Luckily I have a spare door. They're all setup with the same materials and profile settings. I don't notice any difference at all between any of them. Mainly a SS430 or Ti vaper, lowest build around .1 usually. With the same coil build specs I'm finding 430 heats up twice as quick as 316 and Ti about 50% quicker than 430.

A 2 week old device, contact your place of purchase for repair first. They're probably more local than Evolv. Good luck.

By updating firmware/software do you raise the watt cap of the Dna 200? NO. Evolv doesn't play those Chinese games. Or is that a hardware upgrade? Yes. Eg. DNA250 shares many of the same but beefier components. 200=9v output voltage. 250=9.3v output voltage I have a DNA Duo (in the mail) and I'm wondering what the best 18650's are? Refer to Mooch's recommendations based on your vaping style. 28650's technically. Does anyone know if the Turnigy LiPo battery, it's the only one i could find, will fit inside of that device? Probably not. Many are similarly sized for the same mAh For the most part on reviews i have read i think it will but i don't know for sure. We don't know at all, never mentioned mod, or battery dimensions Thanks Yeah

This guy has posted his mods on here and 3D prints his stuff. https://goo.gl/i8MRyy All free .stl files on Thingverse. I'd just be careful with the material you use due to heat issues. I can only print in PLA which is not ideal. I'm in Ontario, Canada and many local libraries have 3D printers with PLA filament. Cost is 50 cents for each 15 minute print segment, and a 3 hour time limit. They only allow their filament. Good luck, and even if you don't like his stuff, a searc there brings up many more.

@Rain I guess when you checked right here, the shipping was also high? https://goo.gl/zlqXe1

@wiss2017 "lg he2 3000 mah" Maybe HG2? "my Therion came out as 22.2 watt hours and Triade at 33.3 watt hours." Where did you come up with these numbers? Are they from you running 'battery analyzer'. "Right now the Therion is 18.5 watt hours and the triade to 26.5 watt hours, know where near the calculated hours." These values look alot more realistic. I think your batteries and mod are fine.

Sure, take a 30c as long as it will fit within the enclosure

@SaintVapingBad "I would advise people not to set watts much higher than you vape at (protects you if you fire with the wrong wire profile)" that was the fancy part I was talking about. Luckily I've never made that mistake. But continuing on, there's also been talk/suggestion of being able to have preheat changed to a % of wattage instead of a hard value, which imho would be better. Any thoughts on that, or would that require a multi page thread with conversation/arguing ala the temperature dominant display thread?

Mooch's blog and recommended batteries, reviews and ratings. https://goo.gl/sKksb5

@black lace. Oooh that thread. The user never did report back what worked and Viruk (low punch) had posted something completely opposite to me (high punch). Either way, I'd just say set up another profile with 'low' punch. What's also missing from there, is that after seeing the results for that type of coil, one can then fine tune/change all 3 parameters to their coil build if they wish (to get all fancy). Ramblings: I leave my settings high and let the board do its job, which it does. (That little 5F over temp (Karloz spike) at ramp up on an initial cold coil is not even worth typing about) Jaquith back in the old days, with the old algorithim, got better results with low punch for SS.

All I was really trying to show, was that two different wire types/gauges have different power requirements. So just because 16 watts in Kanthal works for you, to get the same from another wire type or coil would be different. There is no right or wrong 'hotness' of the vape, just what you prefer. I don't know of a conversion from the heat flux value and wattage to temperature, but at least you know if you like a hotter or cooler vape. The same temperature value of different wire types/gauges should be the same though. I've never used that wire. In Device monitor, do you actually come up to temp using such a low value, and high temp? A print screen of both the profile and firing with the 'temp' options checked works wonders.

Steam-engine. Have you checked the 'heat flux' of both builds in their 'coil wrapping' section for general equivalence?

@Smeef, I forgot to mention, just in case you didn't realize it. To test for 2A charging, you must use, say a half charged battery, and an external charger. On the mod one of the fields must be set to show charging current.

@Smeef Can you check if your board can do 2A charging?

@giz_60 ... so can't verify if it works on Apple or IOS devices. If someone can chime ......... Works just fine. Actually you can do that for any website on your browser. Steam-engine works well.

I'm just waiting on a few last parts before getting myself a new mod built and I'll need to run my own MFG settings. Luckily I have an old version 2016/02/23 which works.

Has anyone managed to retest with this latest EScribe 1.2 SP5.2 to see if this is working again? Or even better, is it on any official list for it to be fixed in the future, which should then show up in the notes for each new release.

@giz_60 Did you change your cell soft cutoff as suggested beforehand?

Speaking anecdotally, My brother in the Construction industry has 4 VS DNA40's, and now 1 VS200, for years. They look beat all to hell. They all still perform as good today, as when new. They've been dropped, run over, etc. are very battle scarred and none have had any issues. I'm now at 3 DNA200's, and 2 DNA75's, and none have required any sort of warranty repair. Mine come from mainstream China mod manufacturers and all are 18650 based. They all perform as new, for me. The only difference I can see from your posts and my usage is that you mention you use drippers (juice leakage) and neither of us do. We might be lucky that somehow you keep 'taking one for the team'. Back in the day for electronics manufacturing, with through hole components, once the product survived 'burn in' it was pretty much golden. Today with SMT I don't know if that still holds true with your comment on resistors falling off. Either way, you could open your VS to look for moisture and a resistor inside the housing before calling VS.

I've used those and they work with most atty's, except some have shorter 510's. Now I just use 26650 or 18650 replacement battery insulators that stick to the original 510. I've also ju triimed my own from the lid of a Pringles can, or any fine plastic.

@morphflow if you find it's not worth it after speaking with Madmodder, order yourself a replacement screen ($12 USD here), and try to do it yourself. Screen replacement, after getting to the board itself, is at most a generous 1 minute job. Lift tab, pull out old screen's wire, insert new cable, push tab down, reassemble mod. Or find a hobby/electronics repair that would do that for you locally.

It also appears that your Finder 133 has not had the different profiles setup for different wire types. Personally, If you're happy with the SKAR, I'd save the profiles that are on it individually, then I'd load those same profiles (don't forget materials) in the same order on your Finder. That way you don't need to relearn the way either mod is configured.

@Heavy Metal Machine Now that's how you make a first impression. Fantastic