Wayneo

Has anyone managed to retest with this latest EScribe 1.2 SP5.2 to see if this is working again? Or even better, is it on any official list for it to be fixed in the future, which should then show up in the notes for each new release.

@giz_60 Did you change your cell soft cutoff as suggested beforehand?

Speaking anecdotally, My brother in the Construction industry has 4 VS DNA40's, and now 1 VS200, for years. They look beat all to hell. They all still perform as good today, as when new. They've been dropped, run over, etc. are very battle scarred and none have had any issues. I'm now at 3 DNA200's, and 2 DNA75's, and none have required any sort of warranty repair. Mine come from mainstream China mod manufacturers and all are 18650 based. They all perform as new, for me. The only difference I can see from your posts and my usage is that you mention you use drippers (juice leakage) and neither of us do. We might be lucky that somehow you keep 'taking one for the team'. Back in the day for electronics manufacturing, with through hole components, once the product survived 'burn in' it was pretty much golden. Today with SMT I don't know if that still holds true with your comment on resistors falling off. Either way, you could open your VS to look for moisture and a resistor inside the housing before calling VS.

I've used those and they work with most atty's, except some have shorter 510's. Now I just use 26650 or 18650 replacement battery insulators that stick to the original 510. I've also ju triimed my own from the lid of a Pringles can, or any fine plastic.

@morphflow if you find it's not worth it after speaking with Madmodder, order yourself a replacement screen ($12 USD here), and try to do it yourself. Screen replacement, after getting to the board itself, is at most a generous 1 minute job. Lift tab, pull out old screen's wire, insert new cable, push tab down, reassemble mod. Or find a hobby/electronics repair that would do that for you locally.

It also appears that your Finder 133 has not had the different profiles setup for different wire types. Personally, If you're happy with the SKAR, I'd save the profiles that are on it individually, then I'd load those same profiles (don't forget materials) in the same order on your Finder. That way you don't need to relearn the way either mod is configured.

@Heavy Metal Machine Now that's how you make a first impression. Fantastic

WOW!! What a mess. Mod Res at 0, Lipo battery curve, non-optimal sc cutoff, definitely wrong Wh's set. All that with 62k puffs. Is this a used, but new to you mod that you've been 'playing' with?

Well, manufacturers should run a few of their units through testing to come up with the Mod Resistance for the units. The more accurate this is, helps with temp control, and other interpolated values. If YOU want, you could run it yourself for your specific mod, for the most accurate value. VS is a highly respected company, so I don't think you'd find much difference, so it's not a must do. All in all, I think you're good to go.

@arzhaq Yes for ALL DNA's that use escribe

How can you be at a loss. Your first Device Monitor shot showed you were in Profile 3, your second (which matches with your profile setting 5) shows it works. Edit: excellent screen captures. Makes helping so much quicker. Beautiful solid TC you got there

@darth vaper, with all respect to @stevef I'd suggest different changes. The beauty of the DNA is you can test and monitor both easily. I'd suggest 2 things. Using the profile you showed, I'd raise your punch to 11 and time to 2 seconds. It looks like a staggered fused clapton you have, so by increasing those 2 items, although you have 2 seconds, punch 11 will stop your pre-heat once you're within ~10F of your set temp. Try both and report back, please.

Yes @oddly.orangre.

Whoa, pictures with all that blur/jitter, but made it out. I see you're never even really coming up to temp. Can you do a print screen of your profile 7. With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer or (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload)

@Darth Can you post a Device monitor screenshot with at least the 2 temp boxes checked, and another of the profile, please.

It'a a standard data/charging cable. Buy the thickest one you can find. I assume your lost cable WAS working the last time you used it. I also assume, you've tested whatever you plug into still works with those other cables.

You can 'prove' your beliefs in Device Monitor, and carry on from there. Great little mod that SDNA75, I just wish it were 2mm wider.

Yo @Quagmicah, have you tried one of your multi-core fancy builds as a single coil, with ohms unlocked? Room temp atty on a room temp mod to start. You might be pleasantly surprised. @NayBray what do you mean by custom curve and temp is out? Can you do a 'print screen' when you start (pack, temp, temp set, cold ohms, live ohms enabled) and it's good, then another when it's no longer good.

Excellent for you Nasos. What do you mean by better in watts mode?

Now I personally think is very silly. If one has a decent mod, the manufacturer settings are unique to each. Why would anyone want to put the wrong settings on their own?

Answered in the other thread.

... this is a confusingly labeled 3000mAh battery with only a 20A continuous discharge rating (CDR) - from the master. And NOT on his recommended Battery List 9/17/2016

Hoping for a faster reply ? Real reply deleted. And I notice your question is completely NOT acknowledged or answered. My LostVape Efusion Duo was properly setup from the factory, but I see many posts now where many fields are blank. And the admins are far too kind by allowing this, and not deleting one.

I'm on 10.12.2 and had a few similar type issues at 0.9.2. Now, at 1.0.0 no issues encountered.

@hobbyquaker I'll probably just make my start page github. From 0.0.6 to 0.2.0 overnight, and now 0.4. By the New Year you could be up to v1.0 What's really interesting (SS316L, .379, 420F) is that the board, based on the linear temp ramp up, has already started throttling back the power at ~.25 seconds, sees the temp ramp drop so it blips the power back up to hit the temp, then a more gradual drop in power. Excellent work you're doing there. Are you actually sending your commands serially and waiting for the response as suggested. I can't see escribe doing it in that manner.