Wayneo

Either way, you'll probably want to shorten the wire length as it's quite a tight fit already.

@dwcraig1 What material did you use to print it? I'd rock that color scheme.

Zero difference. It only affects that battery display on the screen. CSC makes the difference.

Suitable replacement - You'd need to measure the dimensions of the current LiPO to make sure this one will fit. In my old tired mind, I believe it does but don't hold me to it. Nothing really needed to be changed in escribe, except it would be good to run your own 'battery analyzer' test after a couple of recharges. You might need to change the connector on the end of the battery to match what's currently in the mod. I think it's an xt30 in the mod, but don't hold me to it. Usually Hobby (like RC) stores are familiar with all of that, or can do that soldering for you.

@dwcraig I believe has hit it on the head. However for your issue 1, was this fine at one time. Either way, it still looks like time for a replacement. I'm glad you didn't take offence to my post, but it just makes everything much easier. If you're not hindered by the dual 18650 limitations, you'll get longer run time till you get a new Lipo. That's still one of my fave 200's that I own.

There is no latest firmware since June last year

What kind of Mod?What kind of Battery (detailed)?Device Monitor Print Screen, (not crooked cell phone pic)of when you see this occurring.

Yeah, I do that occasionally (Canada, eh.) So are you satisfied with your TC settings now? How many different 'profiles' do you use, or will use?

If the values were populated, and your mod resistance not set at zero, you should be fine. Having said that, it's easy to do, not very time consuming, and you're sure they are correct for your mod, not just from their 'sample' group.

I agree with @giz_60. I set mine at 75 watts & let the board do its job... After you see what's actually required, you can, if you wish, go back and lower the watts down to steady state TC vaping. Using my pic, it's just under 30 watts, so I'd put that somewhere around 40 for my pic. You should not lock ohms for your coil either, so the 'refinement' magic can work.

Forever burned into my memory. And it was due to Karloz that I 'sainted' VB for his calmness throughout the entire ordeal.

Hot damn @giz_60, you da man. I'm gonna do this myself on my new 250. So, just to be clear .... we have 3 values to work with .... Raw Ohms, Nominal ohms (kanthal and Temp). And you're way was to set mod resistance to zero, then subtract 'raw ohms' from 'nominal ohms (kanthal).' So we really only have the atty resistance not accounted for. I wonder ... how does Evolv expect anyone to do this accurately now?

Just did this to match the text above. That red line is power, notice the ramp, then the blip as I described. See how the green (temp) line matches with the blue straight resistance line. Bottom shows in seconds.

With my old tired eyes, I just can't look at skewed crappy cell phone shots. Windows Print ScreenSome use this process: Stolen from 2 of the finest on here: With Device Monitor showing you just hit the "prt sc" button on your computer.Open a Paint software program and click on "Paste".You can change size, orientation, and etc. in the Paint software.Save this to your computer.Attach the saved file to a post here. OR (if you press [ALT]+[PRT SCN], open MSPaint and paste [CTRL]+[V] you have a screen shot from any program, that you can save and upload)

@UKDTweak ....... Now that's gotta be the ultimate matchy matchy!

Yes, there has to be some resistance, and what you've decribed is perfectly normal. As dwcraig mentioned, AA has beeen busted for quite some time. A lower value, or zero, is better than a higher value for TC. Can you describe in more detail your TC issues, either in a new thread or an already existing thread so we can look at that independantly. For quickest easiest troubleshooting, a screen capture of the profile, a description of the coil, and a screen capture of device monitor with Temperature settings at a minimum. Proper Print screen, not a skewed moire filled fuzzy picture appreciated.

@inteks "...10F and 10C are not the same" gotcha. Actually there's no temp monitor at all, and it doesn't matter F or C. What we're really talking is coil resistance change (to prove TC, and not drop out), then resistance value based on the wire profile/curve/TCR value (that matches what we would call a set temperature). The mod is trying to get to your 'set' temp, without going over. As it's ramping up (on it's way to 75) and watching that coil resistance value change, the mod knows what power it needs to hit and maintain the desired/required coil resistance (basically your temp), so it'll drop power to try not go over, then blip that power back up to hit super close temp, then another drop .... down the power required to maintain the set temp. Some will notice the 'Karloz spike' usually on the first vape of a cold coil somewhere in the area of 2 to 5C. Can you do us 2 more screen shots, of the profile settings like you did before, along with a device monitor shot. (I personally would use 2 different profiles setup, independantly to make testing quicker, then an easier change between the two) Take a preliminary vape to warm the coil. screen shot 1. Preheat set 75, Punch 0 or 1. Take a preliminary vape to warm the coil. screen shot 2. Preheat set 75, Punch at 11. PS. IIRC you mentioned the coil was somewhere around ~.2 ohms. Can you describe it for us. Is it 1 or 2 coils? Is it a thin wire, or claptionized coil etc.? Spaced?

I don't think it's battery sag in this case. Your mod is working as designed. When you have your punch set at 11, the preheat works until you're within 10F of your set temperature and then stops. Yours is set at 5. So the 'preheat' cuts out way before that. Increase your punch to 11 and you'll see. Then, watch what is actually required to fire that coil and adjust lower if you wish, or let the board do it for ya.

Welcome aboard, and enjoy meng. @dwcraig1 - totally off topic, but is that your 'peanut brittle' I've been vaping?

TC is 'material' specific. Not coil, diameter, wire gauge, or anything else. If it's 316L and that's one of your materials ...... you're fine. You might need to change your profile settings due to the larger surface mass (more power needed) to heat those puppies up.

This is what I've found to be the numero uno, bueno (damn I miss Karloz) tip for Titanium. I use it on devices with easily exposed screws.

Can't you just go check what type of wire? Either way, both are safe to use in plain ole wattage/power mode. You should be more concerned about that sticking fire button, while still under LostVape's warranty. Good luck.

Excellent decision considering it's brand new.

No LED. No light. No worries.

What does this mean? YOU need to set the mod to the material type you have installed. Sure hope it was a quality supplier. Lotsa shady sellers. With SS being an alloy, the actual composition can change from order to order to supplier. <- That contributes to SS TC issues.