Wayneo

You can 'prove' your beliefs in Device Monitor, and carry on from there. Great little mod that SDNA75, I just wish it were 2mm wider.

Yo @Quagmicah, have you tried one of your multi-core fancy builds as a single coil, with ohms unlocked? Room temp atty on a room temp mod to start. You might be pleasantly surprised. @NayBray what do you mean by custom curve and temp is out? Can you do a 'print screen' when you start (pack, temp, temp set, cold ohms, live ohms enabled) and it's good, then another when it's no longer good.

Excellent for you Nasos. What do you mean by better in watts mode?

Now I personally think is very silly. If one has a decent mod, the manufacturer settings are unique to each. Why would anyone want to put the wrong settings on their own?

Answered in the other thread.

... this is a confusingly labeled 3000mAh battery with only a 20A continuous discharge rating (CDR) - from the master. And NOT on his recommended Battery List 9/17/2016

Hoping for a faster reply ? Real reply deleted. And I notice your question is completely NOT acknowledged or answered. My LostVape Efusion Duo was properly setup from the factory, but I see many posts now where many fields are blank. And the admins are far too kind by allowing this, and not deleting one.

I'm on 10.12.2 and had a few similar type issues at 0.9.2. Now, at 1.0.0 no issues encountered.

@hobbyquaker I'll probably just make my start page github. From 0.0.6 to 0.2.0 overnight, and now 0.4. By the New Year you could be up to v1.0 What's really interesting (SS316L, .379, 420F) is that the board, based on the linear temp ramp up, has already started throttling back the power at ~.25 seconds, sees the temp ramp drop so it blips the power back up to hit the temp, then a more gradual drop in power. Excellent work you're doing there. Are you actually sending your commands serially and waiting for the response as suggested. I can't see escribe doing it in that manner.

@ritzroscka Wait a few hours and you should be able to download once it works through their systems.

@VapingBad Just a very minor question. I was always under the impression the 200 is 97% efficiency, and the 250 @ 98%

@hobbyquaker Super thanks there!! I found and downloaded, and started using it yesterday. Works as intended and I don't need to fire up any sort of virtualization software. Slick. I've tested straight wattage mode as well as TC mode, 4 different mods ranging from 75's, 200's, and 200/133. All perfect. It would be nice to 'enable logging' and save a csv. One question .... after clicking on highcharts, how do I get back to your regular display?

YOUR CSV should be perfect for YOUR battery. Since battery life is the issue, perhaps someone should chime in on the "Cell soft cutoff" value. In the meantime you could use the "Search" option up there. ^^^^^^

Gents, while the problem is real, there was missing/vague information. First off, that photo does not match any Lost Vape product and it's certainly no Triade 3 battery mod like the video or the photo. It's a 2 battery Thinkvape Finder 167 I bet. Then again, the OP's vagueness never did say it was, nor was that ever clarified. If it is pretty new, the place of purchase would be where to start, and they should repair/replace that for you.

So I'll guess it sorta looks like this @ 450F?

Seriously, thank you. Dead easy to spot what I need to change. And I haven't written any Python before either. I'm an old old school guy .... ksh (not even bash), awk, sed, C (which was still in its infancy), Perl, and Ruby. LOL.

@VapingBad Let me be the first to say thank you for this. Very helpful, and such clean code. Just looking at your variable names I imagine that you always intended to publish it. Looking at the escribe stats, I'll probably do this myself for my batteries, and my 'mean' for puff seconds, and board efficiency for the 200 vs 75. The stuff I write for myself looks like crap. Is there documentation showing a list of all fields available to use. Please and thanks. Edit: You should actually share this with Mooch, it's so good. IMHO, as beneficial as his simulated testing.

Can I recommend a build ........... I wouldn't even try. We are all different, but I could easily vape your info in post 1 and 3. One of the main things that will affect you hitting your temp is that initial wattage, and the punch setting. Here's an example to show you what I mean, and set this as an used profile. Keep your settings, exactly 'as is' in one profile you're enjoying. In an unused profile, set your preheat to 60 watts, punch 11, and 2 seconds. Same build as you have now. (Upload to device) Using your normal settings -> With Device Monitor running, and mod sitting on the table ....... on the left click on Power, Temperature and Temperature Set. On the bottom right hand corner choose "Puff", then 4 seconds. Escribe will fire the mod for that duration. Watch the red line as it climbs to what you set. Now do the same thing AFTER changing to the more aggressive settings. Apart from a more linear increase in the test settings, you should also notice how that Power (green) curve has decreased more than half in both. It's really there just to get your coil up to temp.

@esoj413 you said "Didn't even lock the resistance", don't lock the resistance unless you have a shitty build with jumpy ohms. It's usually a build problem. Also gunking coils is usually from highly sweetened juice. If they gunked before they probably still will. That can partially be fixed by a build that heats and cools quickly so the sugars don't carmelize on the coil. As for dry burning your coils beforehand, I'd suggest a slow gentle pulse. They don't need to get red hot, just heating evenly from the middle out. Enjoy your mod.

/topic/66731-topic/?do=findComment&comment=900118 SP5A is the latest

@dnanick "...not having to set multiple profile for the number of wraps i do/Inner diameter etc. in 'Steam engine'." TC works via wire type. wraps, I.D, etc. are not relevant. Unlike the majority of other mods, on these, the best practice is also to not lock the resistance while using TC. There are only a few cases when you should. You have an atty where you're getting jumpy ohms, which in that case you need to fix your build. You're going to change your battery, and will lose the 'refinement' that the board has done (unless plugged into a USB cable).As far as profiles are concerned, there are a couple different ways people create them, either singularly or in combination (like a mix of one style or other). Some set them up by wire type, temperature, punch, pre-heat for wire type, ORSome set them up by punch, pre-heat, either more or less, then just change the wire type to match those settings.Some set them up by atty or RDA for wire type, temp, punch, pre-heat.There is no wrong way, just the way you prefer. I personally only use option 1. Welcome and enjoy your mod.

http://www.protovapor.com/product-category/diy-products/ for wire and 510. Gotta get that Evolv reference 510. The competition has some sweet button actuators, but have been dicking me around now for 14 days, and still not shipped my order.

@Dan I mis-read, my bad. Enjoy that mod.

@Dan thanks for making this fun, and welcome to the board. Cool, I love clue games. Here are 3. Are ya ready? The answer you are looking for is in the manual (250 datasheet, which you should read)It's on a Page # higher than 3, and less than 5. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250.pdfIt might just be, ............... (no using the dictionary), the penultimate paragraph.Your turn to guess. Nice mod.