Wayneo

At least it's only a simple solder job, which is much less time consuming to repair, compared to sending it to the US for service. Looks like the old battery tab connector wire. Glad you found it.

Hey @retird, if it wouldn't be too much of a bother, could you describe how boost works on your 60. Mine has no USB, and I don't want to actually 'fire' with only loose wires. I think @James said it was proportional up to a 60w max. Like from 1-11 is it both wattage and time?

With those varying voltages shown for each cell, could there be eliquid in there? I'd really check/clean all contacts, then open the ticket like @retird suggested.

Will it connect to escribe? If 'yes', can you post a 'printscreen' of 'Device Monitor' And welcome

Welcome No comments on such things as using the spacebar or the return/enter key for accepting a dialog box, or copy/paste in an editable field. IMHO, there are bigger fish to fry.

And if that doesn't solve your issue, read this one post. Link in @retird's signature And welcome

Yo @mactavish, the url you show (that works), is not the same as his on his mobile. His 'fix' I'd betcha is written on his image posted.

2 questions What were you doing just before it stopped working? Did you do/try a 'Restore Defaults'? Welcome

So are those your actual values you are using?

Yes, just stays there as 0.005, no more ?. I noticed the change (stopped working) with my 200's from 1.2 SP3, FDA deadline. IIRC, you limited the max peak and sustained current at 24A, and identified as '-Other changes'. No comments about anything else?

You are correct, sir! But nowhere in this post was the 6.0 volt limitation ever mentioned. Perhaps it was meant for a different thread? And welcome

@James, with the solid copper 510 tool, with multiple 200's using the last 2016/02/23 firmware and escribe 1.0.39 or 42, I was getting down to .002 on a couple mods. Later firmware and escribe was down to ~.006 before a ? mark. The last i checked (if you can tell I'm a mod res natzi) it would get to .005 and stay there, but testing on the prior versions would still get my 11 DNAs .002 and higher. The 75 non color (when tested) managed to show lower values. You said "Always make sure the Mod Resistance you have is conservative", they (users and quality manufacturer's) will think .005 is accurate. I don't own a C version. On my BilletBox (only DNA60) it was set at .0004, and no way to validate that or thermal characteristics (even though I only need board temp to room temp offset) as there's no USB port. Telling me another way is more useful, than an easy 'just use the defaults'. I had a DNA250 custom built, with the shortest, biggest, fattest wires possible for every connection with a shitty Varitube v2 (which is now being replaced) and got .003 using an alternative method. I'm no Electrical Engineer, but if a '0' value is the default, couldn't you put Mod Res calculation on the Manufacturer Mod tab, and perhaps disable the fire button, allowing us to use the solid copper tool or something? A simple yes or no would suffice. A nice feature would also allow one to Save "Mod" parameters, allowing us to load default settings across the slew, then load individual Mod parameters. Mod Res setting IMHO is a 'premium feature' parameter from the Temperature vaping pioneer company.

They're the experts, take them up on their replacement offer. A CSV will definitely not fix a battery drain issue.

True words. Even here with DNA devices, knowing that we can no longer get an accurate Mod Resistance value from Atomizer Analyzer as we know it. But we do get COLOR screens ........yes!!!.

I can't see it. Maybe as a niche product. There's only 1 standard really, being the 510 connector. From that we get the resistance of any coil/atty combination. I think it's gotta be done through software, a la Hohmtech. Just my thoughts. Think of interchangeability consumer choice.

Yup Yup Yup to ya's. @awsum140 Last week I was gifted 6@30 foot spools of Temco Ti01, and 1 box of NiFe70. This stuff just doesn't have the market, but Gold to me. Ni200 is considered commercially pure @ 99.6% Nickel and was used as the material by Evolv on the DNA40's. Also used by Steam-engine as their reference material. Ti01 is ~99.5%

Much easier for sure. But SS, IMHO has become the defacto standard for many, due to safety fear mongering. I posted a a table below showing composition for each SS

@denniz Just to add slightly .... If you look at the composition off what makes SS304 304, or SS316 316, the specs clearly show both minimums and maximums for each wire type designation. If one batch were to follow all the minimums/maximums/average it will all throw off accurate TCR. Not disagreeing with your 120 ........ just saying. I'm with @awsum140 .... every word.

Enjoy your mod. You're welcome

Efests - rewraps. Running Battery Analyzer on your cells will be accurate for curve and Wh's.

Li Po, if 18650's. I have only heard of 1 person inquiring about LiFePo's. CSC 2.75 or higher, wherever you feel comfortable. Wh Capacity should be written on your cells, or use the built in calculator. Or search for your battery type curve and someone will have stated the watt hours they got/use.

Mod Tab. Battery section. Change cells from 3 to 2. Adjust Watt hours appropriately. For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture

I have only used Isopropyl alcohol, vinegar, or windex

I don't own a Therion, but for squonkers there are 2 types of connections. One 510 pin (in the mod) is spring loaded, so various rda's will push on it and make a sealed connection to help prevent leakage. The other you need to adjust the 510 in the mod and rise/lower for each different rda to ensure a sealed connection. Bit of maintenance keeping everything clean is essential. Isopropyl alcohol and QTips are your friend. Compressors work too, but might not totally clean that VG.

If you remove the squonk bottle and the battery is there eliquid inside the box itself?