Wayneo

You sound like you've read up on this, or done it (Thermals), but just to be sure ... start with your batteries 25-50% full, and an area with a somewhat stable known temperature. Are you sure it's being recognised as a TC wire? You could adjust your Preheat watts setting to 30 watts or higher, lower your power (watts) value to the max you'd vape it normally without nastiness (on this mod). Even if you set it to 75 preheat watts, preheat punch 11, and preheat time limit to 10 seconds (all ridiculously high), the mod will revert (drop) to the regular 'Settings', power value if it does not see a quick enough rise in resistance.

@VB In Escribe 2.0 SP12 on MAC - FYI, it's in the same place as you said. Device Monitor - Diagnostics - Disable USB Charging

The 1st portion of my last post (apparently poorly described) was an alternate method to check/set the mod internal resistance. Usually done with a TC wire, and I never tried that with Kanthal. The portion following the OR was meant to look for rounding errors with the mod and atty combinations in their then current state with a non TC capable wire. A .01 or .02 reading in reality is close enough for Rock and Roll. You could raise the Therion internal resistance up by .001 to see if that helps. I am of the belief that running your own Thermals and setting your own internal resistance is the best thing you could have done, on all your DNA's. So to be consise. Put the JAC back to its setting. Put the Therion back to its setting raising it by .001 at a time to see if that helps to get them in sync. PS. Didn't your Jac read the .15 Nickel as .15(and in what state)? What did the Therion read? Off topic - Are the thermals done for the Therion, or only the case resistance?

Without a proper copper tool, many of us have validated the below, and although initially written for the 250 board, the link in the comment will show the validation with the copper on a 75. Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFH and follow the link in there Then Wire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMV Takes a few minutes, and it should be correct for YOUR mods. IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes. OR Ideally an AA Printscreen (shows 3 digits) from each mod with same Kanthal or non TC wire/coil and RDA, and what I'm asking can wait. Is the Therion a BF? What is the current mod res of each?

Same thing as yours. NO CIRCUITRY

On Page 1 there are 2 posts by @TheSwain an Evolv tech here, who describes the issue he mainly sees and the fix. Or if you send it in, it might be him who fixes it there. The Calibration tool is a solid Copper, 510 threaded shorting tool, used to set the internal mod resistance. It looks at losses incurred by soldering, connections, etc. to at least give you more accurate atty readings, etc

@DMcC Here's my suggestion/thought. Can you build a kanthal coil on another atty, and test it on your Therion and Jac using Atomizer Analyzer or Device Monitor. Both of those display that third decimal point, whereas your mod will round up or down for display.

When you held them down together, did you see a message on the screen, and if so what? If it was Power locked, keep holding for 5 seconds. OR, build a 2 ohm coil for now. 🤙🏼

hold down the 2 small buttons at the same time for a few seconds.

Yeah, figured that out about an hour after writing that. And welcome

You mean cut one lead at a time from the xt60 and solder into the xt30 connector, right? The xt60 can hold a much thicker gauge wire, so check if it'll fit in the xt30.

Glad it's better for ya. Welcome.

Did you read my edit above? It's your wire not jiving with steam-engine. That's why the resistance never matched up.

Edit: Here's the easy answer. Follow this link by @Moutainvaper , go download v3.25 & v3.5 . Those are the fabled Jaquith wire profiles. You'll find 3.5 will display a lower number (temp) on your screen, more to your liking. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65874-ss316l-help/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-923794 Your TC is working fine. SS is an alloy, meaning the wire composition falls within ranges. Nothing wrong with your mod, it's your wire. Report back if you want to on how it's working. No need to answer any of the below original Name and brand of wire? So you're saying 570 on this mod is the same as what on your other mod? And can you just validate to me that wire profile is the standard steam-engine profile? (looks like it to me)

Device Monitor scrolls while firing. Hit the pause icon when you've had a vape. Scroll backwards till it's pretty. Printscreen instructions in my footer.

Name and brand of wire also.

Saw that. What's the current state? Can you post a Printscreen (full, complete from end to end) of Device Monitor while firing with temp, temp set, live ohms, current and volts. And one of the Profile you're using.

Just let your mod sit unpluuged for half an hour. Turn your temp down to your normal values before firing. More answers and explanations over there.

Good morning, @Jentz9517 and @Moutainvaper nope he's long gone, sadly enough. I learned a lot from him. I see the original filenames were changed, which actually followed this format "DJaquith UD-SS 316L V3.25.csv" There is/was even a V5 &7. So in all 5 versions. So ask yourselves 2 questions Why do they say UD in the filename. Think maybe that was the specific brand he tested at the time? Why at least 5 versions, and wouldn't V7 (the last be the best/most accurate) Think about that for a minute and before you go spreading the love. Maybe even ask Steam-engine to change their curve for the good of the world.

Hah! I don't work here/there. But, that is the current behavior of that field. You're good. If you keep an eye on it, that value will move lower, probably drop ~.03 ohms over the next little bit. You're still good, and that's supposed to happen. 'Refinement', BTW.

In reality it's changing because you might be using SS wire, and you showed Profile 2, your mod is not in Profile 2 and just using watts. Notice the 'temperature set' field is blank. Welcome

What version of Escribe? In 2.x it's under 'look and feel'

You are welcome. And you could use those with the Nickel setting on your 40 in TC. Steam engine to the rescue again. Just below the top right. Click on equivalents. http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.html#

All things being equal (except wraps or gauge of wire) ....... the .2Ω Steam-engine is your friend.