Wayneo

This was not from escribe, but shows my battery savings compared to straight watts. 70 watts set as max power Great coil pics by the way. I tried so hard to get some of my Wasp, but unsteady hands. Sorry if the pic is massive, I can't be bothered to resize.

Simply claptons or plain old twisted wire. Single or dual core fused. Never even tried anything fancier. However, I really use steam-engine alot. Wire wizard will allow you to simulate any build. Coil Wizard if you want a specific resistance. I checked my Wasp. It's a 6 wrap 3.5mm ID spaced so my legs are straight. The pooling bothers me just ... because. I really only use them for flavor or eliquid testing. "I understand TCR on a very vague level" No worries, SE is a great calculator. Basically it's a number that calculates how much the resistance of a coil will change when heated 1 degree celsius. That's very very simplified but cleaner than a whole bunch of brackets. That all lines up with why not to lock the resistance of a solid build. Evolv refines your coil resistance displayed value only 'refinement' to what it would be at at 70F and combined with other known info, uses it for TC. TC is nothing more vaping at a set resistance, from a known starting point (70F) and the larger the 'TC Precision' value in Wire Wizard, the easier it is for any mod. There are other really sharp guys that'll clarify or correct my understanding if it's off.

OK, fully understood what is NOT quoted. Can you rephrase what I've quoted, or even type in your language and we can translate.

Hey man, can I see that again, but this time after your first, just set the mod down, See puffs over on the right, choose 4 seconds and let your mod do it. Stop the scrolling, move the mouse over the lowest area (deepest valley before another rise) and a printscreen of that. Can you describe your coil? I have only experienced that in 3 scenarios. Inconsistent inhale, or an overpowered set of parameters for a low mass single wire build or uneven coils

Same as on the DNA 250, for all boards. No need to lock unless certain conditions cause instability in the resistance read

No idea on the boards. I read a pretty ridiculously high value once on button actuations. That ~90K puffs was my 1st. (a 200), and with a rumoured crappy 510 and substandard wiring still looks and operates perfectly. I had standardized on 1 tank and ended up with 3 of the same. They still work, but sit dusty as I could no longer find SS coils. I never was a dripper, but use 2 just for flavour testing as I've DIY'ed my own e-liquid since week 3. My favorite atty's are a Kayfun 5 and the Ammit 25, so I wrap my own SS

My lowest and highest. LOL.

Charge and discharge before rushing out for an expansion pack. Can you source the housing and battery seperately.

Meh. Recovery charging stops/times out. Just put it in regular rotation and charge it. I don't charge anything overnight.

I don't work in the industry, so now I'll go out on a limb. I thought it was interesting to see a 200 with such so low puffs. It smelled like a Lipo, from your post. You verified a 14 month from board programming. Here comes the jump. Volcano had a big sale and either had a crap load of boards and batteries sitting there or already assembled for a long time. Nothing you can do to prevent the imbalance. It could just be an old battery.

Nice, see right now you don't think I'm whacked. Escribe - general tab - get information. When was that board programmed? And can you do a printscreen .......... while firing. Normally, I only see like a +/- .01 on a new fresh Lipo, if it all, during firing.

Sometimes you have to do a recovery charge multiple times to get them all back. Vape it down, then recovery charge if you wish? Is it a Lipo battery? I could go way out on a limb but then you'd think I was whacked.

If you vape your mod down, during charging, it might bring all 3 back to the same voltage over time. Leaving those same checkboxes ticked, you can vape it and see if Cell 1 sags more than #2 and 3. Having 'pack' ticked you can undo for less clutter. Do you remember what the lowest cell voltage was when you started?

That soft is the keyword. Many here safely set it to 2.7-2.9V, so wherever you feel safest.

'Capacity' only relates to battery icon. 'Max Peak/Sustained Input' is already maxxed out IIRC. What are you seeing at 3.5V? Run Device Monitor with cell1 and 2 ticked and see if there's alot of sag on the cells, or 'a' cell. Post printscreen here.

Over on the left, Cell 1 is .04v lower. That's pretty cool with only 2 non-TC puffs, I've got one mod with I think only 1 non-TC.

Not sure what this was in relation to, but great. Just in case TCR/TFR only relate to Material type. It does not change due to ID, or wraps, etc. They posted it on their FB page, in the August timeframe. Don't quote me on August, I'm old and Grey

Well ............... I'm out. But welcome

Protovapor.com - USA, or modmaker.co.uk - UK, if you must. If you don't want to send it back to the vendor for whatever reason, you could open a ticket with Evolv (USA) but using your predicament, you might still have to claim full price. In my country if it's a warranty/broken item the value is effectively zero. Good luck with your choice

On the DNA, there's a feature called refinement, which (based on a couple factors) will interpolate what the resistance would be at 70F. Once your mod fires it could take up to 30 minutes for it to have that refined value. Or when waking up from a dead sleep. That refined value will not change much. Maybe +/- .01 and will NOT change on your mod while firing. If you're a fan of the FSK, get a spare while you still can. They're now a part of Indonesia Chemistry. No more mods. You should be able to run your .05's on this box also, but you'd have to check on steam-engine, knowing all 4 constraints. Current (Amp) limit and output voltage for your particular board. Page 1 of datasheet. On Device Monitor, you can see the exact watts required to maintain the temp you set (green lines) Oh yeah, welcome

I have the solid Black. Hadaly now sits. My only issues are juice pools on top of the clamping/airflow an underside of the cap. Usually 2x28/40g SS. .2-.4Ω Next up will be a Ti01 build to see if it decreases the pooling. Definitely not, and just the opposite. Therions before the 'C" version had a ~6v ouput voltage limit. Yes. Steam-engine (wire wizard). You can either dowload a TFR, or TCR then import on the Materials tab. I'd suggest you download a new version of 316L from there, but name it like 316X. Change all your profiles the X. Delete old 316 profile. Upload settings to Mod. Start with a preheat of 100W, say 55W regular. If that works, we can fine tune it. Can you do a Device Monitor like the one below (while firing) , with exactly the same checkboxes highlighted. Temp less than 500F, or whatever you think you're accustomed to.

Can you describe your build? Are you making sure your coil has reached ambient temp before using on the mod, and checked all the connections are tight. I never owned an FSK mod, but on DNA's you should NOT need to lock the resistance normally

I do not own a 75C, so these are some thoughts. Have you updated the firmware to the latest version? N80 has too low of a TCR to be used for Temp vaping. Only watts/power mode. BUT, if it could, Material Tab, left window and import it in or create a new TCR value material and name it. Right arrow to put it on the mod. Upload settings to Device.

Folks, this might be of interest.

Well, ya got 2 choices. Escribe - Tools - USB Recovery charge (but you'd have to do this numerous times, and look if the cells will come up in V) or an external charger. However, depending on how long they've been that low (1 and 2), there could be bad internal battery damage. Just replace with another battery. Any idea why this happened (shelved and unused for a while)? Edit - Added this -> If it were mine, I'd just replace the battery