Wayneo

@Sergey giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFH Then Wire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMV Takes a few minutes, and it will be correct for YOUR mod. IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes.

Welcome. IMHO you're way overthinking things, and TC is actually quite simple to set up and get good results. Material TCR is wire specific and will not change due to ANY coil parameters. The resistance of the coil is ONLY read when you press the fire button. It is a 'live' read while in Power mode. It is a 'refined' (70°F) value while in TC mode when unlocked and does not change on the display while firing. DNA mods only require locking under special conditions. What do you mean?

1200 mAh Lipo. So that's about the equivalent of one and a half, high Mah 18650's. You gotta compare it to that. The only tuning I can think of, would be to run your own battery analyzer (1 hour) and adjust those parameters (Wh's and CSC)

Like you mentioned, an acceptable value. Others should use those values for comparison if they set their own.

And what value would that be now?

Different but similar. TFR's usually have multiple data/measurement points. TCR's just a calculated value over the same range. But both always rise. TFR's from Steam-engine, TCR's added as a new material, then the TCR value.

Glad you got it working. I have had contact coils also work, but as we suggested, it's usually a cleanliness, build or connection issue. Cheers

Everything's done on the Materials tab, then upload settings to device. So at the end of it all, you'll have 2 for 316L, and 2 for 430. There is no overall best. Start at 400F and work your way up or down. Adjust preheat values if you want quicker/slower time to reach temp.

Sounds good. Preheat > Power. There you get NO preheat, just power

Is your preheat value greater than the power setting in that profile?

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The standard evolv offering works. Jaquith hasn't posted in probably a year. That file was for his batch of UD wire. Stainless Steel is an alloy. There is NO most accurate version due to that. All is not lost, and you can get somewhat accurate. If you trust his experience he also said this "... set temperature to 470 F using scrap cotton and "cotton burn test" until light golden brown. Adjust TCR until passed. DO NOT OHM LOCK! If your Atty is unstable then don't use it in TC .. get a new Atty. Whenever I have a new wire I use a rock solid and resistance stable RDA with one spaced coil until I have a TFR or TCR that I know works" Notice all the ranges below.

Good English. I really think this is a build issue, as your other atty/build works fine. Can you check there are no hotspots, if a contact coil, try a spaced one.

Apa koil ohm, dan kekuatan apa? Sudahkah anda menggunakan setup Goon ini pada mod lain dengan hasil yang bagus? What ohm coils, and at what power? Have you used this Goon setup on any other mod with good results?

This was not from escribe, but shows my battery savings compared to straight watts. 70 watts set as max power Great coil pics by the way. I tried so hard to get some of my Wasp, but unsteady hands. Sorry if the pic is massive, I can't be bothered to resize.

Simply claptons or plain old twisted wire. Single or dual core fused. Never even tried anything fancier. However, I really use steam-engine alot. Wire wizard will allow you to simulate any build. Coil Wizard if you want a specific resistance. I checked my Wasp. It's a 6 wrap 3.5mm ID spaced so my legs are straight. The pooling bothers me just ... because. I really only use them for flavor or eliquid testing. "I understand TCR on a very vague level" No worries, SE is a great calculator. Basically it's a number that calculates how much the resistance of a coil will change when heated 1 degree celsius. That's very very simplified but cleaner than a whole bunch of brackets. That all lines up with why not to lock the resistance of a solid build. Evolv refines your coil resistance displayed value only 'refinement' to what it would be at at 70F and combined with other known info, uses it for TC. TC is nothing more vaping at a set resistance, from a known starting point (70F) and the larger the 'TC Precision' value in Wire Wizard, the easier it is for any mod. There are other really sharp guys that'll clarify or correct my understanding if it's off.

OK, fully understood what is NOT quoted. Can you rephrase what I've quoted, or even type in your language and we can translate.

Hey man, can I see that again, but this time after your first, just set the mod down, See puffs over on the right, choose 4 seconds and let your mod do it. Stop the scrolling, move the mouse over the lowest area (deepest valley before another rise) and a printscreen of that. Can you describe your coil? I have only experienced that in 3 scenarios. Inconsistent inhale, or an overpowered set of parameters for a low mass single wire build or uneven coils

Same as on the DNA 250, for all boards. No need to lock unless certain conditions cause instability in the resistance read

No idea on the boards. I read a pretty ridiculously high value once on button actuations. That ~90K puffs was my 1st. (a 200), and with a rumoured crappy 510 and substandard wiring still looks and operates perfectly. I had standardized on 1 tank and ended up with 3 of the same. They still work, but sit dusty as I could no longer find SS coils. I never was a dripper, but use 2 just for flavour testing as I've DIY'ed my own e-liquid since week 3. My favorite atty's are a Kayfun 5 and the Ammit 25, so I wrap my own SS

My lowest and highest. LOL.

Charge and discharge before rushing out for an expansion pack. Can you source the housing and battery seperately.

Meh. Recovery charging stops/times out. Just put it in regular rotation and charge it. I don't charge anything overnight.

I don't work in the industry, so now I'll go out on a limb. I thought it was interesting to see a 200 with such so low puffs. It smelled like a Lipo, from your post. You verified a 14 month from board programming. Here comes the jump. Volcano had a big sale and either had a crap load of boards and batteries sitting there or already assembled for a long time. Nothing you can do to prevent the imbalance. It could just be an old battery.

Nice, see right now you don't think I'm whacked. Escribe - general tab - get information. When was that board programmed? And can you do a printscreen .......... while firing. Normally, I only see like a +/- .01 on a new fresh Lipo, if it all, during firing.