Wayneo

Good, so not mod related. Ask at a local vape shop for modders. The modder should be able to diagnose and repair. Similar to your situation, my 2 thick battery cables are hardwired. When it's time to replace it, I'll decide whether to put a connector in the path by cutting the wires already there. Those are 12awg cables and can't be easily used with an XT30 connector (small)

When you said this. It could be more than just the battery if the connections are solid.

Yeah, so you have a few options. The RC hobby guys are familiar with Lipo's and tight soldering. They might see an issue with the sollder joints/wire. Your battery you can find at hobbyking. You could see if they're willing to to replace it for you, but it's obviously more work than just plugging in 2 connectors. It'll take them more time to clean up what's there, than the new soldering required. It looked to be a tight fit so maybe there was no room for connectors, blah blah blah. For a builder to do it, you could check/ask at your local vape store. Do you remember what the nonsense message was? All I've said was how to replace the battery.

See those thinner wires (Black/white/blue) are they plugged into the board in between the thick red and black coming from the battery? You might be able to lift out the battery carefully which has either been soldered directly to the board or there will be a connector Looking carefully, he appears to have cutoff the connectors and wired directly to the board, due to space.

For TC, the core wire(s) need to be TC capable for it to work ..... with any wrap. I believe you described kanthal cores which will not work.

I believe so as well. Been there done that. LOL. The balance connector is usually a small connector coming from the battery and usually attaches to the board/chip down by the USB port (on the opposite side of the USB plug)

Thanks for that. It's showing every cell is completely dead. 0.00V. Hopefully a new battery would fix that from seeing such low puffs, but even so with my old barely used Lipo's, there was usually a glimmer of a volt in at least 1 cell. I haven't seen a 'some nonsense' error, but the actual wording or screenshot could indicate bigger issues.

Sounds like a LiPO battery. There is now escribe v2 with a native Mac version available. Can you post a full Printscreen (Command Shift 3) of Device Monitor with cells 1-3 ticked

Not directly related to your issue, but here's a proven method to test/set your internal mod resistance. Remember to set it to zero, and upload to your device beforehand. ** giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation **Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFHThenWire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMVTakes a few minutes, and it will be correct for YOUR mod.IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes. Set to new value, upload settings to device.

Could be a combination of many things, but for the resistance to rise, it could be say a hotspot on a coil, or even a coil leg is slightly loose and when the wire it expands slightly, tightening the connection. The other stuff I mentioned was just getting you to a known stable base. I can't agree with this, and realize every manufacturer uses different algorithims to do their TC (how often they read the change in resistance, when/how they calculate if a material is TC capable, etc.). I don't believe any other mfgr does 'refinement'. I wouldn't fiddle with your mod resistance, unless you know how to set it accurately (5 minute job), we're talking down at the thousandth's value. I'm surprised your Koopor reads the same value when both are in straight power mode. Have you have proven a single coil in TC works (the chip itself)? Did you look at Atomizer Analyzer? You might want to lock your resistance Yes, the cold ohm value should be a steady line, and if yours moves that explains why it's no bueno for TC

Thanks for that level of detail. It could be a few things then, but all leaning towards a poor connection .... somewhere. I would check in this order, seeing as you said ALL atty's. Check your ground connection inside the mod. Clean your 510 connector and threading with a Q-Tip. I use IPA or windex. Wouldn't that lead you to believe it's a build issue? I've never built a quad, but all your coils need to be as close to identical as possible. Using Atomizer Analyzer, you can see if your build is stable (it will jump a few thousandth's at a consistent interval as AA applies 1watt). You can also 'set' you resistance there. You might also want to lock your resistance which negates refinement. BTW, have you actually set your Mod resistance?

@Sergey giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFH Then Wire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMV Takes a few minutes, and it will be correct for YOUR mod. IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes.

Welcome. IMHO you're way overthinking things, and TC is actually quite simple to set up and get good results. Material TCR is wire specific and will not change due to ANY coil parameters. The resistance of the coil is ONLY read when you press the fire button. It is a 'live' read while in Power mode. It is a 'refined' (70°F) value while in TC mode when unlocked and does not change on the display while firing. DNA mods only require locking under special conditions. What do you mean?

1200 mAh Lipo. So that's about the equivalent of one and a half, high Mah 18650's. You gotta compare it to that. The only tuning I can think of, would be to run your own battery analyzer (1 hour) and adjust those parameters (Wh's and CSC)

Like you mentioned, an acceptable value. Others should use those values for comparison if they set their own.

And what value would that be now?

Different but similar. TFR's usually have multiple data/measurement points. TCR's just a calculated value over the same range. But both always rise. TFR's from Steam-engine, TCR's added as a new material, then the TCR value.

Glad you got it working. I have had contact coils also work, but as we suggested, it's usually a cleanliness, build or connection issue. Cheers

Everything's done on the Materials tab, then upload settings to device. So at the end of it all, you'll have 2 for 316L, and 2 for 430. There is no overall best. Start at 400F and work your way up or down. Adjust preheat values if you want quicker/slower time to reach temp.

Sounds good. Preheat > Power. There you get NO preheat, just power

Is your preheat value greater than the power setting in that profile?

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The standard evolv offering works. Jaquith hasn't posted in probably a year. That file was for his batch of UD wire. Stainless Steel is an alloy. There is NO most accurate version due to that. All is not lost, and you can get somewhat accurate. If you trust his experience he also said this "... set temperature to 470 F using scrap cotton and "cotton burn test" until light golden brown. Adjust TCR until passed. DO NOT OHM LOCK! If your Atty is unstable then don't use it in TC .. get a new Atty. Whenever I have a new wire I use a rock solid and resistance stable RDA with one spaced coil until I have a TFR or TCR that I know works" Notice all the ranges below.

Good English. I really think this is a build issue, as your other atty/build works fine. Can you check there are no hotspots, if a contact coil, try a spaced one.

Apa koil ohm, dan kekuatan apa? Sudahkah anda menggunakan setup Goon ini pada mod lain dengan hasil yang bagus? What ohm coils, and at what power? Have you used this Goon setup on any other mod with good results?