Wayneo

Or 'weak battery' followed by 'Check Battery', as the CSC is 'under load' and not the at rest value.

So for a 2 month old "HCigar VT250 battery display issue" your quality recommendation is: #facepalm, but thanks for coming out.

@gogo No need to be desperate. SS is very safe to use in wattage/kanthal/regular mode. I'd suggest you follow post 16, then some youtube videos about your mod/DNA device, get comfortable with it, then worry about TC vaping .... you'll get there. Relax and have a vape.

And double check all your connections are tight.

You do realize there hasn't been an update for this since 2016-06-05 and your computer capture shows 22/12/2016 which is when you probably downloaded it onto your PC. I think your mod already had the June 2016 firmware (based on release date of the Nano), and something else has happened. My only thought would be to clean all your mod connections and battery ends, make sure they all seem solid/snug.

If you've gone and changed it to 3, have you actually looked at your mod? Betcha it now says 3 without changing the text.

Exactly, just like has been noted with the 2 dash 3, and unlike the efusion where it's a solid XT30 plug/unplug.

Duo is nowhere as quick or easy to swap. Got one, love it, and I've never put in the Lipo. Leather has now worn to a dark rich brown.

So everytime you want to change from 2 to 3 cell mode, you have to go into escribe and change battery parameters. Uh huh

Under "File" menu, go and save a copy of your entire settings in case you ever need to restore back to pretty close your 'standard'.

Good idea. I'm assuming your 'pinch' means removing from the VT75 and testing, and not actually pinching which is also an issue on some mods. Restore from the latest backup you saved.

Damian, my feeble attempt at some old time IT humor. In the old days it was PEBKAC, so to keep it current and relevant, I've now invented (Problem exists between mod and user).

Go to your Goblin profile, save that profile, go to your Merlin profile, choose 'load' and select your known Goblin profile. Rename profile text display's back to Merl or whatever Whole lotsa PEBMAU. For TC to work properly, both the mod and the atty need to start at the current room temperature. Ya can't just willy nilly swap 'em out. Yes for Power/watts but not TC Excellent descriptions that you provide allow for quick(er) diagnosis.

@jaygee Here’s an excellent MacOS native monitor for DNA devices. Super fast, and quick. https://github.com/hobbyquaker/dna-monitor I find the display is much cleaner once you stop your vape, compared to escribe I have seen those ‘dropouts’ infrequently while running escribe via Vmware’s Fusion product, but only with 1 of my many DNAs. I think my only 75, but I’m old and forgetful. That was one funky image you posted. Edit: In looking at your print screen again, could you humor me with one more at the following settings. No preheat, no punch. 25 watts. Same coil.

@Smil Your batteries show they're hitting your soft cell cutoff under load. Follow @giz_60 suggestion. When you say this "... My other "Non-DNA" Boxes drain the batteries to 5% - 0%" what is the voltage remaining in them? "I dont know whether the Volt drop is normal" This is different for every mod depending on its ability to pass current from battery to atty. Quality of battery, wires, connections etc. all play a role. If your concern is really that "15% value" run your own battery analyzer

Nope, and a lower ohm might suit you better deprnding on your power/heat requirements due to the 6v limitation. I believe 3 other factors enabled your success. You used a different atty. You created a single coil build, and you raised up your power levels. I think both giz_60 and I leave our settings 'high' to accomodate any build and let the board do its job. Others like to fine tune down to have a bit of headroom over what the coil actually requires in case of careless mistakes. You can pick your poison.

Was your coil description accurate? Dual coils I presume?Did you remember to upload (the material and profile settings) to your mod?If that's 3 "yes's", can you post a printscreen of your profile and device monitor while firing. Ensure you have the following 'checked'.

I don't believe so. I think you meant lower gauge (thicker wire) on the battery end. It's all up to xt30 opening, which the entire xt30 is smaller than the xt60

Either way, you'll probably want to shorten the wire length as it's quite a tight fit already.

@dwcraig1 What material did you use to print it? I'd rock that color scheme.

Zero difference. It only affects that battery display on the screen. CSC makes the difference.

Suitable replacement - You'd need to measure the dimensions of the current LiPO to make sure this one will fit. In my old tired mind, I believe it does but don't hold me to it. Nothing really needed to be changed in escribe, except it would be good to run your own 'battery analyzer' test after a couple of recharges. You might need to change the connector on the end of the battery to match what's currently in the mod. I think it's an xt30 in the mod, but don't hold me to it. Usually Hobby (like RC) stores are familiar with all of that, or can do that soldering for you.

@dwcraig I believe has hit it on the head. However for your issue 1, was this fine at one time. Either way, it still looks like time for a replacement. I'm glad you didn't take offence to my post, but it just makes everything much easier. If you're not hindered by the dual 18650 limitations, you'll get longer run time till you get a new Lipo. That's still one of my fave 200's that I own.

There is no latest firmware since June last year