Wayneo

@Carl sayers SS3xx, SS4xx, NiFe, Ti01, Ni200 are all TC capable. You should probably start with the Stainless Steel

What's there to say. Build your RTA coil out of a TC capable material/wire. Go to a replay enabled profile Find the wattage you like. When you have a really great puff, hit replay.

@ozzyagYeah to 91%, like @dwcraig1 said, NO to acetone

Good stuff, and welcome Sheesh, you should see the emoji right beside that wave

Now that the board's out, I'd give it a thorough cleaning with IPO. Wipe down all the components. The buttons, are 4 part, you can remove top clip, rubber, then flat piece to get to what soldered. Wipe them all, re-assemble, and test. Good luck.

@zlollar06 What firmware version is on your mod?

@Augmentin @Ghoulsfrank What firmware version?

@zark Just to clear up a bit of confusion, whenever I've typed "mods" I'm referring to the volunteers in this forum, and nothing else as we really only discuss DNAs here.

Buddy, that was enthusiasm. My question remains, which other mods? There are 5 mods here (volunteers), 3 main developer/owners at Evolv. If you're talking abut Zark, he's not a part of either category. PS I think you might be the first person to ever call me out for 'bad info'. But that's OK, I'm chillin. 😎

Great, then go lock. You finally got the answer you want. What other mods recommend that you lock? And where?

The research tab might help you. Or your stats are downloaded to ecigstats.org or available via ecigstats. Because you own a 'C", there is much more information available to you. They are also on your device. Hobbyquaker's work IIRC was done by the serial commands available. More info in the Research area. If you only use DNAs, ecigstats can colate all the info in one place for a complete picture.

Do you already own a DNA mod? How many mods do you own?

I've heard of it less than a handful of times for all their products. There is a nut underneath, but unless your resistance was also fluctuating, I doubt it. But easy enough to check when you get the torx. Just lift it straight up and out, less than an inch.

If you remove your tank, and look down at the 510 plate, are there a couple tiny torx screws holding it tight?

I believe there is a UK center for repairs. Lucky for you, as I've dealt with Chinglish and time zone differences. Taken from the LV site. http://www.lvevapor.com/regular-inquiry/#toggle-id-4

@Adam_Aves I notice that another mod answered you before. I also saw what atty you have. I took this from their site Recommended Settings: Triple Titanium w/ Black Ceramic Coil: 20-25W; TC-Ti, 350-400F <- that says you should be using the Titanium material profile and 25 watts & 350-400F 13mm Sequoia Ceramic Donut: 15-25W; TC-Ni, 300-400F <- that says you should be using the Nickel material profile, 15-25watts & 300-400F I can try to answer your questions but I have no clue how things are on your end. I'm sure there are other forums that are more knowledgeable about that atty and settings. My first answer remains the same.

@Adam_Aves I can only vouch for myself and all the other mods here (and I think we'd all give this same answer). Now, my replies in this thread was for the Non color mod, and a year ago. So here goes. On your 250C, if you have stable readings (Atomizer Analyzer) , then NO, you never need to lock the resistance in any mode.

No can do on a NON color board. Here are a couple suggestions Use temp control, which offers dry hit protection Put puffs as one of the displayed items shown, and note it down Get a new C (color) mod and use a theme that allows that reset

Open/close - 3 color pictures are usually in the datasheet for each board. The connector hinges at the edges, close to the board. I usually grip the connector with my fingers at each side and lift it straight up towards the cable. When you reinstall, there's like a click/detent so you know it's locked in.

Don't wait for the message. Read the resistance of a new cold coil in every profile you think you might use it in. So that would be Replay and the watts at a minimum (and SS316 in your case). I'd say no. I think you meant Device Monitor.

Good, I didn't go that link. Ideally, you've built a coil as a few loops of straight wire that look like tennis balls, and you have a fan blowing on them

@Capobuf Yup, the old screen disconnects value should be zero. The ribbon cable was probably pinched by the fire button. You can put a bend in the new one's or ensure their placement isn't interfering.

@MohKha Thanks, your batteries appear to be firing evenly, that's a good thing. Here's your printscreen back with a few notes on it for you. No need to repost it back here. And maybe you can find a Lyra forum to ask all those other questions.

Search for posts by @joeblowma , he's posted some.

For battery details it's under the Mod tab For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture