Wayneo

You need some sort of RDA/atty on top. Built as a couple tennis ball sized loops. And a fan to keep it all cool. Full batteries to start

2 choices, better one first. Run your own battery analyzer on those rewraps. or Save your battery file on your mod. Lower the 100% value to 4.18 or 4.19, then upload to mod.

@DNA_all_day Your knowledge and understanding is clearly self-evident.

@JaI Haze You never the mentioned the mod or atty, or just one of either. Or if it's any mode, TC only, Replay with TC, etc. I'd check your build, 510 on both mod/atty and your ground connection. Cheers meng.

Considering it's using YOUR batteries along with the internal board temperature sensor during the calculations, I do my own yearly. If you're just a regular power user, not as big a deal. But it's so dead easy, why not. Do 1 of your 200's and look at your results, and decide if you want to do the others. And, you're welcome.

Good job. While others certainly can use your settings, IMHO they're unique and accurate for your setup. It's looking at how well your mod heats/cools in the enclosure with your batteries. If you read any of the info on the screen during, it was showing different charging rates and the rise/fall of temperature How long did it take you? Was it 2-3 hours, and 3 button presses (Start, accept, upload)?

Unknown to steam-engine so I can't help you there. Contact the manufacturer, or google for other groups that might know more.

Wowza. I only have 1 last thought. Material tab. In the upper right hand listing of your materials, can you select SS316, and one last printscreen. Thanks.

Throw a SS build in your Bonza. Use the same settings as your Profile 5, cept make sure you select SS material. Post Printscreen with Cold ohms, Live ohms, Temp.

Meant to comment here as well. Out of your materials, only SS will really work with TC. And that Avocado had a crappy positive pin, that's why I got rid of mine long ago. I can't remember if it was a 2 piece, but should work better with Replay

Being able to unlock your mod would be required before moving on to anything else IMHO. Have a nice day, I'll defer to @engmia so you don't get uggly.

Is this still the case? Your current lock/unlock sequence can be seen here. After that, or either way, can you post a Device Monitor full printscreen.

With all due respect, have you watched any videos on these mods? You take a highly customizable device, where others are allowed to create an inteface for YOU to use, and it can become very easy to sorta get lost. I'm not saying you're wrong, but I have never seen a temp protect error in watt mode. What technical support did you contact? What are your current issues? (Did you by any chance use the search feature here for your problems), or look through the datasheet for official explanations?

Forgot thermometer.

All you need is a stable temperature and your batteries 25-50% full. No atty required to be attached. Oh, and a couple hours ~2-3 max.

What tools?

That makes sense then why you'd use that v4 file. At one point that's what Joyeshite programmed into their boards, but even they changed back to 92 (0.00092). I think from what Pete said, you'd have the ability to load v4 in AF. I also get intermittent weak TC puffs that show the 'Temp protected' error. Usually the 2nd or 3rd puff after waking up from sleep, and randomly, which is now becoming more frequent. That's with a clean tank and coil (multiple) after a refill or two.

Just wondering why you'd suggest this when @Photo Pete said this The cold resistance of my builds reads consistently between the DNA250c and my other mods. The build reads at 0.251 ohms on the Paranormal DNA 250c and 0,250 ohms on my Arctic Fox mods. The Steam Engine prediction is 0.250 ohms The DNA 250 is recording the temp within +/- 5F of the set temperature and the live resistance that is showing is in line with the temperature predicted by the steam engine curve which I'm using for SS316L. IMHO, the results will be exactly the same if he swaps it for any other calibrated DNA.

@joeblowma As a solid AF user, are you using V4 on both your DNA mods and AF mods, or is that 316L TFR from Steam-engine? So here's where we are; @Photo Pete gets great results with AF and the standard s-e profile (effectively 0.00088). And not so on his DNAs, yet swears by his Joyetech mods as the gospel. @retirdgets great results with his DNAs, and uses a profile (effectively 0.00100) The great DJLSB vapes, publishes 0.00092 Your Jaquith V4 (temp probe tested for his particular spool of UD wire) at 200C/392F is effectively 0.00133 (almost s-e's SS430), and at 250C/482F is effectively 0.001217. At Pete's 470F it would be 0.00123 I'm not arguing with any of you, just standing by every comment I've previously made. 🍻

Hey @WingedLion, so when you said ^^^, were you only talking about your sleep issue?

You can get an updated official comment here Help Desk Please update this post so others also know

At a MINIMUM make sure you're running the International version of the firmware, a coil (material) that is TC capable, AND a theme that supports REPLAY. Atty very rarely ever matters.

@RickdeM You can see an example of using this on the Lock screen of the latest Gauges theme

I have never seen this warning in standard watt mode.

So almost 3 years ago, the creator of steam-engine said this "I don't believe we will ever have accurate standard SS files anyway. It is better to use NiFe or Ti if you want accuracy, IMHO. I suspect that the people using SS adjust to taste and call it good enough - which is fine if that's what you want"