Wayneo

That's how I feel about my Triade's. But gotta say my beater VT133 has been a true workhorse. Tried and true. Naked now (paint started flaking at 3 weeks) and a couple mm's narrow, but every atty goes on there first after a rebuild.

@StockQuahog Personally I'd have no battery concerns. Your build and settings are working fine for you. Nothing wrong at all, if you like that vape and flavor. BUT if your build goes wonky you'll be vaping at 155 watts. If you were to put Preheat to 155w, Punch to 11, and set regular power to 50 ....... you'd achieve the same thing, while having some safety if it drops out of TC. By blasting your way to any temp you could be missing out on nuances in your ejuice, which could be a good or bad thing. Higher resistance SS builds are easier for chips to control in general. Your .124 raises up to ~.15 ......... a .4 would raise to ~.48 Only old-timers will appreciate that Karloz bump, where your mod has overshot the temp set before settling.

For anyone else looking here's a Copper one https://www.signaturetips.com/collections/signature-acc/products/calibration-tool-for-dna200-devices

Sorry, don't have one. You might try the Help desk. Link in my signature line.

His name was Ed, and I had contacted him in the past at SmokeFreeMods@gmail.com Others have used 510 tightening tools, but not out of copper.

Go watch a review or two and see how others build and wick it. You use SS of your choice with their build specs.

@Carl sayers SS3xx, SS4xx, NiFe, Ti01, Ni200 are all TC capable. You should probably start with the Stainless Steel

What's there to say. Build your RTA coil out of a TC capable material/wire. Go to a replay enabled profile Find the wattage you like. When you have a really great puff, hit replay.

@ozzyagYeah to 91%, like @dwcraig1 said, NO to acetone

Good stuff, and welcome Sheesh, you should see the emoji right beside that wave

Now that the board's out, I'd give it a thorough cleaning with IPO. Wipe down all the components. The buttons, are 4 part, you can remove top clip, rubber, then flat piece to get to what soldered. Wipe them all, re-assemble, and test. Good luck.

@zlollar06 What firmware version is on your mod?

@Augmentin @Ghoulsfrank What firmware version?

@zark Just to clear up a bit of confusion, whenever I've typed "mods" I'm referring to the volunteers in this forum, and nothing else as we really only discuss DNAs here.

Buddy, that was enthusiasm. My question remains, which other mods? There are 5 mods here (volunteers), 3 main developer/owners at Evolv. If you're talking abut Zark, he's not a part of either category. PS I think you might be the first person to ever call me out for 'bad info'. But that's OK, I'm chillin. 😎

Great, then go lock. You finally got the answer you want. What other mods recommend that you lock? And where?

The research tab might help you. Or your stats are downloaded to ecigstats.org or available via ecigstats. Because you own a 'C", there is much more information available to you. They are also on your device. Hobbyquaker's work IIRC was done by the serial commands available. More info in the Research area. If you only use DNAs, ecigstats can colate all the info in one place for a complete picture.

Do you already own a DNA mod? How many mods do you own?

I've heard of it less than a handful of times for all their products. There is a nut underneath, but unless your resistance was also fluctuating, I doubt it. But easy enough to check when you get the torx. Just lift it straight up and out, less than an inch.

If you remove your tank, and look down at the 510 plate, are there a couple tiny torx screws holding it tight?

I believe there is a UK center for repairs. Lucky for you, as I've dealt with Chinglish and time zone differences. Taken from the LV site. http://www.lvevapor.com/regular-inquiry/#toggle-id-4

@Adam_Aves I notice that another mod answered you before. I also saw what atty you have. I took this from their site Recommended Settings: Triple Titanium w/ Black Ceramic Coil: 20-25W; TC-Ti, 350-400F <- that says you should be using the Titanium material profile and 25 watts & 350-400F 13mm Sequoia Ceramic Donut: 15-25W; TC-Ni, 300-400F <- that says you should be using the Nickel material profile, 15-25watts & 300-400F I can try to answer your questions but I have no clue how things are on your end. I'm sure there are other forums that are more knowledgeable about that atty and settings. My first answer remains the same.

@Adam_Aves I can only vouch for myself and all the other mods here (and I think we'd all give this same answer). Now, my replies in this thread was for the Non color mod, and a year ago. So here goes. On your 250C, if you have stable readings (Atomizer Analyzer) , then NO, you never need to lock the resistance in any mode.

No can do on a NON color board. Here are a couple suggestions Use temp control, which offers dry hit protection Put puffs as one of the displayed items shown, and note it down Get a new C (color) mod and use a theme that allows that reset

Open/close - 3 color pictures are usually in the datasheet for each board. The connector hinges at the edges, close to the board. I usually grip the connector with my fingers at each side and lift it straight up towards the cable. When you reinstall, there's like a click/detent so you know it's locked in.