Wayneo

@TorturedZen That was really just to replicate blasting to that temp. This part was also important. Right now it's taking me over a second to reach my set temp as I like the flavor changes as it ramps up. Enjoy your mod.

I opened a Help Desk ticket and was passed on to some gent who took my order for the 1A data/charging board the 60's when they were not showing a while ago. Link in my sig.

Replay will work with ANY Temperature controllable material/wire as their core. I'd call the Big 4, Ni200, Titanium, Stainless Steel, NiFe .

Open a Help Desk ticket and explain the problem. Link in my signature.

Like I initially said What do the flashes mean? If you believe it's a battery issue, you can select Voltage in Device Monitor, take a puff, pause screen, move cursor to lowest point on the black voltage line, to see the voltage sag Then a printscreen of that And I meant Downloads section/area.

Yes, that's normal. The display is live, and that's just the board getting to your 30. You can tweak the settings to show the warnings or flashes. I'd raise that 2.66 up, depending on your batteries. What kind of batteries are you using? Themes and profiles are up to you in the regular DNA section

Escribe for the board authentivity.

Stainless Steel 3xx, 4xx. Ti01, Ni200, NiFe 48/52 AS THE CORE (DOMINANT) material/wire Not Nichrome.

Follow what I suggested in my first reply

Sorry? Who's wrong, what's wrong? First you said Are you now saying your coils are Or do you not believe what I said were best practices?

Are the core wires SS or Nich? Best practices are Core wires are Temp controllable wires Using a Replay enabled theme, and in a replay enabled profile

Moved and merged your duplicate threads. If you look around in here, there are multiple battery/charging posts similar to yours.

@Capobuf So if I understand you correctly, with the working screen, can't you check all the mods? If the liquid is inside the screen wouldn't you just order new screens and maybe a spare or two. Shipping is very reasonable and only one way to you. If the VS cable is non standard length, in the long past others had created an extension cable, or you should contact them. Either way, good luck and let us know how it works out.

That's how I feel about my Triade's. But gotta say my beater VT133 has been a true workhorse. Tried and true. Naked now (paint started flaking at 3 weeks) and a couple mm's narrow, but every atty goes on there first after a rebuild.

@StockQuahog Personally I'd have no battery concerns. Your build and settings are working fine for you. Nothing wrong at all, if you like that vape and flavor. BUT if your build goes wonky you'll be vaping at 155 watts. If you were to put Preheat to 155w, Punch to 11, and set regular power to 50 ....... you'd achieve the same thing, while having some safety if it drops out of TC. By blasting your way to any temp you could be missing out on nuances in your ejuice, which could be a good or bad thing. Higher resistance SS builds are easier for chips to control in general. Your .124 raises up to ~.15 ......... a .4 would raise to ~.48 Only old-timers will appreciate that Karloz bump, where your mod has overshot the temp set before settling.

For anyone else looking here's a Copper one https://www.signaturetips.com/collections/signature-acc/products/calibration-tool-for-dna200-devices

Sorry, don't have one. You might try the Help desk. Link in my signature line.

His name was Ed, and I had contacted him in the past at SmokeFreeMods@gmail.com Others have used 510 tightening tools, but not out of copper.

Go watch a review or two and see how others build and wick it. You use SS of your choice with their build specs.

@Carl sayers SS3xx, SS4xx, NiFe, Ti01, Ni200 are all TC capable. You should probably start with the Stainless Steel

What's there to say. Build your RTA coil out of a TC capable material/wire. Go to a replay enabled profile Find the wattage you like. When you have a really great puff, hit replay.

@ozzyagYeah to 91%, like @dwcraig1 said, NO to acetone

Good stuff, and welcome Sheesh, you should see the emoji right beside that wave

Now that the board's out, I'd give it a thorough cleaning with IPO. Wipe down all the components. The buttons, are 4 part, you can remove top clip, rubber, then flat piece to get to what soldered. Wipe them all, re-assemble, and test. Good luck.