Wayneo

I believe there is a UK center for repairs. Lucky for you, as I've dealt with Chinglish and time zone differences. Taken from the LV site. http://www.lvevapor.com/regular-inquiry/#toggle-id-4

@Adam_Aves I notice that another mod answered you before. I also saw what atty you have. I took this from their site Recommended Settings: Triple Titanium w/ Black Ceramic Coil: 20-25W; TC-Ti, 350-400F <- that says you should be using the Titanium material profile and 25 watts & 350-400F 13mm Sequoia Ceramic Donut: 15-25W; TC-Ni, 300-400F <- that says you should be using the Nickel material profile, 15-25watts & 300-400F I can try to answer your questions but I have no clue how things are on your end. I'm sure there are other forums that are more knowledgeable about that atty and settings. My first answer remains the same.

@Adam_Aves I can only vouch for myself and all the other mods here (and I think we'd all give this same answer). Now, my replies in this thread was for the Non color mod, and a year ago. So here goes. On your 250C, if you have stable readings (Atomizer Analyzer) , then NO, you never need to lock the resistance in any mode.

No can do on a NON color board. Here are a couple suggestions Use temp control, which offers dry hit protection Put puffs as one of the displayed items shown, and note it down Get a new C (color) mod and use a theme that allows that reset

Open/close - 3 color pictures are usually in the datasheet for each board. The connector hinges at the edges, close to the board. I usually grip the connector with my fingers at each side and lift it straight up towards the cable. When you reinstall, there's like a click/detent so you know it's locked in.

Don't wait for the message. Read the resistance of a new cold coil in every profile you think you might use it in. So that would be Replay and the watts at a minimum (and SS316 in your case). I'd say no. I think you meant Device Monitor.

Good, I didn't go that link. Ideally, you've built a coil as a few loops of straight wire that look like tennis balls, and you have a fan blowing on them

@Capobuf Yup, the old screen disconnects value should be zero. The ribbon cable was probably pinched by the fire button. You can put a bend in the new one's or ensure their placement isn't interfering.

@MohKha Thanks, your batteries appear to be firing evenly, that's a good thing. Here's your printscreen back with a few notes on it for you. No need to repost it back here. And maybe you can find a Lyra forum to ask all those other questions.

Search for posts by @joeblowma , he's posted some.

For battery details it's under the Mod tab For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture

Batteries talk in volts, but you can see their performance in Device Monitor. Only Click/select cell 1-3 and post a full printscreen while firing. you might want to lower your cell soft cutoff to 2.7-3V I already answered your question 3. Live display.

@Robbchillin Was that plugged in directly, and not through any sort of hub? Have you tried another port?

Screens aren't normally covered by warranty. You can get replacements from modmaker or stealthvape, both in the UK. Vaporshark's - you'd need to contact as their cables are different. What value? Or post a full printscreen

Sounds quite normal. On my 2, they both came with low puffs (6-10) each, and 1 reset. Sealed. Those puffs were all of the same duration. Exactly 1-2 seconds each (can't remember exactly). Enjoy your mod.

Every 'C" board can run the US or Intl version of software. All depends what you load on it. So apart from 75watts, it can now Punch your watts to 100 to heat high mass coils quickly, as well as Replay your puffs.

You need to install the intl (International) version. You don't need to delete the old. If you're not prompted there's a service pack, it's should be the last option under 'Tools'

Really only necessary if you have jumpy ohms indicated by 'Atomizer Analyzer'. Usually caused by a wonky build, or tanks with drop in coils that are not stable.

That looks like the djlsb vapes theme. If you're accustomed to the one the Paranormal, so that they both operate the same, you can use theme designer and save the theme you prefer and then load it onto the other mod. You should check some themes here, many have the new Replay feature programmed in. And, you're welcome.

From a material perspective, the 'L' material should be lower in Carbon than the non 'L' material. From a TCR perspective (using steam-engine) 316 is .000880, and 316L is .000879, so that's a .000001 difference. But having the same actual files on 2 mods should make settings/warmth in your mouth near identical. EDIT: And there's NO supported version of escribe for Chromebooks.

@Ping You can plug in your other DNA mod. Start escribe, go to materials. Look if it's in the left window. If it's not, but is in the right window, highlight it, then use the left arrow and move it into the 'master' list on the left. Disconnect via escribe. Plug in Mirage, highlight 316L in left window, BUT this time hit right arrow to move onto mirage. 'Upload settings to device'. It should now be on mod. You should notice very little difference between the two material types 316/316L.

At the bottom of your post there should be an edit and options field. Did you try to ask LV themselves? They're mainly active on social media

Yeah, sure. You can do that in Device Monitor. And when you're out and about, if you have an Android phone and an OTG cable, you can use DNAmate (I think that's the name) from the Play store to check/change a lot of settings.

What version did you install? Plugged directly into PC USB2 port? Tried different cables, ports, rebooting?

Not that I'm aware of, but you might want to change whatever theme to display the total puffs instead of total puffs since reset