Wayneo

@greenwich444 Go read the 2nd post here (my 1st reply). You don't need to create 2 new posts, as well as asking here . The search bar up there works as well. ↗️

Moved to proper forum

That is correct. The default is a basic working theme, direct from Evolv. Some companies write their own to customize them, most do not.

Themes run the gamut from absolutely stellar to the opposite. Click on that big 'Downloads' option and you'll have around 8 different sorting options. In my mind, the About section tells you a lot about the quality of the theme in most cases. Or reviews and comments. Some will give/show/allow just about every single option. Others are more minimal. Your choice for what you prefer. HOW the theme works is all up to the Author, and you can leave a review or comment for theme specific queries. Good luck.

There is an early release that is newer, and when Evolv deems it fully baked it will be pushed to escribe for more general use. As a new user you might want to wait, but if you must, it's in the 'Early Firmware' post in this area. Firmware is board type/chipset specific, not Mfgr. device specific.

Thanks for the update.

Quick answer - no. SSxxx has always been an alloy so unless you have your own thermocouple, it'll always be a guess at best. I trust the Evolv and steam-engine TFR files, or you can create your own TCR material profile using anywhere from 0.00092 to 0.00100

@DangerBass Did you ever get this resolved? Did you send it in, or if you did the swap yourself did you notice any ejuice on any components? @BrentMydlandthis post is the one is was referring to.

Very interesting and detailed post @BrentMydland 👍 I know a handful of users who have had this same issue. Multiple mods, and only 1 going through screens. I wonder if Evolv ever gave you a reason for each of the prior screen swaps? Thoughts here, in the past have ranged from juice entering the board at the edges or dirty connections at the Zif connector that can be cleaned. Or just a low quality screen. The problem for us is we never hear back from the users, or from Evolv. I have never suffered a screen issue with any of mine. Having said all that, there are Evolv instructions on how to change the screen, and then you could see for yourself. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71341-how-to-change-a-screen-on-lostvape-triade/ I'll go comment on a similar issue post asking about that resolution, you'll see. If it were me, my suggestion(s) to you would be the same as they were to him. Please let us know how this gets resolved.

Nichrome 80 is not and has never been a material used for TC vaping on a DNA mod. From my dictionary "(woes) things that cause sorrow or distress; troubles" was a very fitting word for your DNA75. I see we're all done here. Have a great day gents. 🙌

What part of that statement do you NOT understand? I'm this close -> <- to hiding or deleting or locking these posts that clearly show a basic lack of understanding the most simple concepts My patience is wearing thin.

What was the question? PURE CRAZY TALK. Look at YOUR screenshot. Look at 'Temp set' 550C, then you also enabled the 'Temp' value, BUT THERE IS NOTHING SHOWN. WHY? CUZ IT'S FIRING AT YOUR 13.3 WATTS. EVERYTHING WAS THE SAME NO MATTER WHAT YOU SAY.

Look. Nichrome 80 IS NOT A TC MATERIAL. NO MATTER YOUR TALK ABOUT 550°C IN YOUR INITIAL POST OR 350°C HERE THE HARD BOARD LIMITS WILL NOT ALLOW THAT (EVEN IF IT WAS A TC MATERIAL) You can only adjust the watts or boost with that material.

From your screenshot you are not close to any limits. Adjust the power/watts up. This is not a firmware issue. The same tools are available to you, but using files from not even the same brand is just crazy talk. Being a low watt vaper, the internal mod resistance is probably a little low. The same tools are available to you, but using files from not even the same brand is just crazy talk. Being a low watt vaper, the internal mod resistance is probably a little low. IF YOU WANT TO REHASH YOUR DNA75 WOES, GO DO IT IN THAT THREAD.

Alrighty gents. This forum is to discuss your current issues that you are having with your DNA mods. Comparing your mod to others is fine in general, but not the focus as we're here to help with your mod in hand. You can self edit your posts, or I will in the morning. Be certain with what you write, because I will be pointed in my critique. If you don't self edit I can lock and hide this topic and you can start again , because in good conscience I'd hate for a new user to read the vast majority of these posts.

@Fyl8866 I have merged your 2 initial posts into this one, which in itself was a duplicated post. You don't need to do that What kind of material (wire) are you using? What atomizer are you using? Can you post a full screenshot while firing your Odin 75C in Device Monitor. Just 3 checkboxes ticked. Power, live ohms, cold ohms.

I would follow Mooch's CDR rating, not the manufacturer rating. BUT if you're going to be using 2 different batteries with different amperage ratings you decide what value to use. Do you use the higher rating and stress the lower rated battery or not. The 2.75v value for 'cell soft cutoff' is a decent value for both, even though I've seen a 2.3v 'fully discharged' value for some batteries.

They are different depending on each board. From lower to higher in this order. 200, 250, 250C. Usually page 1 or 2 on the datasheet for each board. Your mod probably has the evolv defaults configured. For battery specifics you should use Mooch's ratings/testings. Edited: You were talking battery specs, I was answering board specs. 🙄 I've moved this post from the 'DNA 200 and 250' section to the 'Batteries and Charging' section.

Translation: I'm sorry, I'll enter it in Japanese. No matter how many times I check how to insert it without displaying the screen, it does not appear. I still do not understand what you mean, so I will ramble. The DNA75C datasheet shows how to install the screen. https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75color.pdf When the ribbon cable is bent over the LED it will still shine through, showing a color, if you choose to. Some mods have a dedicated hole where you can see it. Some mods have a big enough gap around the fire button where you can see it. Some mods use a clear fire button. Some mods you can't see it at all. I hope that helps.

I did not understand that reply. Maybe you can be a bit more wordy in your own language and let me do the translation.

That sounds like a mismatch between your actual coil cold ohms and what has been read by the mod. Or maybe stability of the coil or coil connection itself. Use Atomizer Analyzer and tell me how much the Ω's fluctuate. When you're watching the watts, does it actually drop lower than the watts set at some point ? Describe the coil.

That LED will light up in different colors by default in different states such as charging, firing, etc. You can change those in Theme Designer - Indicator light tab. 👋

Great that you did that. A classic example why a user should always run their own battery analysis. 😉 Enjoy your mod.

Did you check the positive is snug on the atty that touches the mod? How much fluctuation in Atomizer Analyzer?

You might want to run Atomizer Analyzer in escribe to see how much fluctuation there is. ~.003-.004Ω is normal. You can clean your 510 threading on the mod and atty. Also check that the coil leads are still snug. Overall, nothing to be concerned about