Wayneo

1 of these with a 3mm ID is .6. 2 would be .3

I primarily use SS in TC or Replay, and I could swear mine are all dark gray, my oldest in use since June 2020. Because coils heat from the center ... out, I/you can get caramel at the edges. And what's this supposed to mean -> 'or maxW/#B~>#Watt/2/3.09/.95' All I can say is these DNA boards have built in safety mechanisms and published specs (https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna250color.pdf) and the last 2 (I think I know what they are, and if I'm correct are wrong by your definition. That's why I ask 😉)

We haven't seen your settings, but we do know your reaching the watts you set quickly. From your title and initial post you inferred you were an old pro. It's your cotton that's singing/burning. Did it come with coils, and what were their ID? Maybe watch/read a review and follow their wicking and coiling. Even that can imply wicking. That's juice that needs to flow through that long tiny coil, and the more room for cotton the better. I'd say bigger coil, fewer wraps. Much fewer wraps would ramp up quicker and I'd suggest spaced coils until you get the hang of it. Dry burn them once built, like 20 watts to ensure they glow from the center out, and it'll burn off any machinig oils as well

All your mod, or ANY mod can do is apply power to a coil. That's it, that's all. In your DM screenprints, you have 2 Green lines. The 'power set' and just plain 'power'. Without boost, or preheat (your 1st puff of each type) you can really only tell when you start your puff due to the battery voltage starting to drop. Otherwise, it's a near vertical line. Near instantaneous reaching the watts you set. If I look at your title ".... slow ramp up times with any rebuildable coil in rda, rta, or rdta's" I don't see it from a mod perspective, do you? And no, 510 positive pins should always be snug. I think your problems are with that atty and coil. 10 1/2 wraps (21 total) and you're hoping your wicking's going to keep up. And with what .... a 2.5mm ID? IT'S NOT YOUR MOD.

Unplug your mod. Restart your PC and try again.

If you look at your 4 cell voltages when it 'cuts off' at least 1 of them is at 3 volts. You should also get a 'check battery' message at that time

Thanks for that. Changing the 'curve' in any way does NOT affect your working mod, at all. The curve will not give you extra battery life. It will only give you an accurate icon. Like I mentioned earlier, run the 'battery analyzer' once your battery is fully charged and all 4 cells are balanced. Lipo's usually have a long relatively flattish slope, then fall of a cliff. You can vape it right down to 'weak battery', knowing the 'check battery' is not far behind.

Can you post a full Device Monitor printscreen for starters. Also, at the end of the day, you ought to run the 'battery analyzer' to get a valid curve for it

I said a lot more than that. I will quote myself. You are certainly free to change anything you want, whenever you want. You should understand why you make a change. You can quite easily make unwise changes

You can use Boost - Punch for extra watts at start of puff. Punch is 1-11. Higher numbers mean more power, start at 5 and work your way up for more.

The Yihi SXmini delivers power (watts) in a different manner to DNA chips. The DNA's are straight line DC-DC while the Yihi chips pulse their power, called pulse width modulation (PWM). It might seem more powerful to you. Describe what you mean by more powerful for the SXmini. You should not be changing things you do not understand, and the change you made did NOT make it more powerful. You should watch a video or two to get a better understanding before making anymore changes.

So you straight up refuse to answer MY questions, and this will be my last post to you. But I will answer your question. You cannot do anything with mod 1 and mod 2.

And what are these mods? #1, #2, and #3

What is that 'Mod resistance' for each of the 3 mods?

In escribe do this Options → User Interface → Advanced so the ‘Mod tab’ shows. Then go to Mod → Electrical What currently shows for Mod 1, 2, and 3

So out of your 3 DNA60 mods, do any of them have USB ports? Let's refer to them as mod 1 and 2, showing the 0.66Ω value, and #3 having the 074Ω.

Does this occur with other/different atomizers on this Plus?

I have not heard anything bad, but not my style of vape. Watch reviews on it, or find a generalized vaping forum. I usually run my single battery mods with a single coil atty/rda, but nothing wrong at all with your setup

Did you move directly to this mod after your Orion? What watts are you currently using? Did you turn the Boost Punch on/up as already suggested?

Best for you to open a Help Desk ticket. There's a link in my signature line.

My photo was clearly the mech version. 👍 Thanks for the updated pic, it's good to have. I see now the magic's hidden under that black cover. As far as this current dude, it's still too early to call.

@BillW50here was another HOG post. In the past they have had issues with the closing panel/plate, and even sold repair/replacements. IIRC they called it an X connector. You can see from this post it clearly was NOT a BMIC/board issue. https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/71785-hammer-of-god-dna-400-dna-250c-wrong-battery-information-always-12something-volts/?do=findComment&comment=938127

@Jjhaire Can you post a screenshot like @ScubaSteve did in his initial post, please.

That lines up better with your initial post specs. Dual coil would be half that, not the .33 your DM showed. In your next post, can you describe your coil(s) in more detail. 1 or 2, spaced or contact, ID, wraps, etc. Also, If you're still in Profile 2, can you post that screenshot of Profile 2, along with a new DM screenshot. (Your numbers did not line up in your initial post). Do you have another atty you can use, preferably with a single spaced coil, for now. You should also check the 510 positive is snug, and clean on both the atty and mod. P.S What was that initial atty?