Wayneo

That is a true statement Like I mentioned above, the set temp should be thought of as the max temp, or temp limit. I'd have to look around if I ever saw a perfect match. Mine, at a 1.82°F over even surprised me. When i normally look it's more like 5°F over.

@gwyar you know I use your theme on one of my mods. It does show good information, but Device Monitor shows more, both in text and in a graphical fashion. Yours is a thorough theme that follows Evolv's public comments rigorously.👍 The only thing I don't agree with is when preheat stops. Even at a punch of 11, preheat settings stop before reaching the set temp. If you can show a visual of crazy preheat until the set temp, I can show a visual of crazy preheat stopping before the set temp. @BillW50 For that video, first off that's NOT James (13:19), that be John. I'm sure it wasn't the first time, but back in 2017, before this 2018 video, I was talking about different flavor profiles at different temps, even here. Which John talks about in the video https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/68913-tc-temp-wattage-w-crown-iii/?do=findComment&comment=919692 And John mentions the word dominant only once, as the way most users set up TC for themselves at (32:40), the blast off way. Not power dominant, not temperature dominant. Now starting at about (43:50) the inventor himself (John) says how to setup a replay puff. Watch it yourself, but I'll quote him "The way to set up a replay puff is you set it up in WATTAGE CONTROL typically, you vape on it till your pretty happy with it and then you set replay........" @mix11898, in that article, the author says 3 modes. (#6) 1) Temperature-protected mode. (looks like my 2nd puff) 2) Temperature-controlled mode. (blast off) 3) Hybrid temp-regulated mode. (looks like my 1st puff, but my temp and power lines are much smoother) I don't see dominant anywhere.

Here is an example of what Bill would call Power Dominant. The FDA or nasties, we know occur around 470°F. So if you look, I've set that as the set max temp. I also know I like this coil ~53 watts. And look at the temp it eventually reaches (funnily enough) in my Temperature Dominant mode. There's more than 1 way to kill a bird.

Those terms Bill is talking about is the display on your VT Inbox. 3 little boxes on the left hand side, 1 bigger value on the display. So that a user can decide what (temps or watts) they want to adjust EASIER. In BOTH ways you can either creep up on the set temp or hit it fast, depending on the numbers you set. TC (actually Temperature PROTECTION) was envisioned just as the naming indicates. Protection from going above a set value. Even though we all say TC. Look in the datasheet yourself, there is zero mention of control. It's all how you set it up. Replay in watts takes most of the fusiness out of everything.

Quick answer: No. Longer answer: ALL mods start at zero, and work their way up. (Although depending on coil mass, the 250C can hit that 100 watts damn quick) while fighting to slow down, and overshoot the set temp by >25 degrees (the karloz bump). Plus you're using Replay there, WHICH I REFUSE TO COMMENT ON UNLESS I SEE A DEVICE MONITOR SCREEN SHOT WITH IT. Use Replay with watts, or TC especially as a new user. If you're brave enough to show a screenshot with those settings, I'm pretty sure I'll see that WATTAGE POWER SPIRAL OF DEATH. NO. It's about the coil and atty being at room temperature. FOR THE SECOND TIME, Here's a screenshot I'll take right now, of TC on an old 250 not color. Look at how IMHO TC should look for this juice. Yes it does hit the temp rather slowly but that's by my design, and the wattage drop toward the end is my inhalation getting weaker. While @gwyar is correct, to me Device Monitor is even easier Edit: Just noticed my max temperature was 1.82 degrees above the set temperature. Let's see yours

Just for clarity, you must have a wattage value for preheat which is higher than your set watts, and your preheat is set by the Punch value, or temp value

Boost Punch (1-11) is a 1 second proportional extra watts before settling back to your set watts. Any material. Preheat Punch (1-11) is only for Temp Sensing materials. The higher the number, the closer it gets to the Temperature set before ending Preheat settings. So the preheat won't let your watts get much above your set temp. You could end up getting the 'karloz bump' for a quick bit. Boost knows nothing about temp. No, will not boost the same All preheat settings will end the closer yo get to the preheat temp/punch value. The TFR is for a material type, not related at all to atty or airflow or coil specs. That sounds more like the wrong cold ohm setting (value). I only ever use Replay in 'watts' material with SS316, SS430, Invar 36, Titanium. Others will promote combining it with TC but I do not. Makes your life much harder, and should really only be needed in a very few unique instances. You can see all these differences (answers to your questions) with Device Monitor, with the Power, coil ohms, and temp boxes enabled (checkboxes)

@zark I would be grateful for your opinion on my last post, seeing that you have posted on this thread

Comrade, who do you think the 'Help Desk' is manned by? Evolv employees that can look at this thread (if they are told about it by him) and walk over to the developer(s). If they've seen this before or not, they will guide the user what to do. A moderator would not add any value acting as a man in the middle.

@Alex999 I am a Moderator, and no we are not required to do that. But what you can do, is open an official 'Help Desk' ticket, and they will guide you. Let us know what they say https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

@Alex999 you never did say what Service Pack is on your mod. Needing to plug into the mod was an issue long ago that was fixed. You can see that in Device Monitor, bottom right hand corner. That screen glitch, I think could be juice in/on the Zif connector that attaches the screen to the board. I'd remove it, then clean or reassemble. If that doesn't work I'd buy a new screen. Screens are not a warranty item. Good luck.

@gwyar, the Think Vape Finder with DNA 250C is 3@18650 mod.

@Psyentist Thanks for that writeup Here's my opinion. Should you ever start suffering those weak puffs again, you should follow these steps. Go into escribe -> file -> save, which will create a .ecig file. Name and save it where you can find it again. Open an RMA and send a link to this post as well. Let them know you have a .ecig file Now at SP45 I, like you, did encounter these exact issues (5 weak puffs after a quick theme change and a few minor changes) but at an earlier SP. Unfortunately, I fixed mine and 14K puffs later I have never encountered another weak puff. I'm a forefinger guy so no idea if the screen was on or off. I also think it could take a couple days before this (weak puffs) starts showing up. Like when you thought it was a low battery issue, only to then having it happen with a full battery. Now a brightness possibility. Setting the lowest brightness on mine has no effect (just tried 10 puffs with a blank screen followed by a screen 'on') @AngeloS same question as before. Did it come with the stock default Evolv theme, and have you touched it at all? This is certainly not a vendor/mod mfgr. specific issue.

The DNA60, 75, 75C, 100C are all parallel boards. And yes, do appear as 1 cell to the board. Most use round cells and can be monitored via external charging. Some can even be operated with a single cell in a 2 cell setup. There are 2S and 3S Lipo's wired in parallel in use. And of course battery safety should always be a concern. Great thing about choice

That difference was seen on a 3S LiPo battery. On round cells it could also be seen by dirty contacts. When it's a round cell, I've thrown a cheap sticker on the offending cell to help differentiate between mod contacts or cell itself. I have never heard that before. All their serial boards follow what I said before, so that's all 2xx

I have personally seen about a .17v difference between 2 cells. The board IMHO uses the volts of the the lowest cell to trigger the 'weak' and 'check' battery warnings. No need to worry, but externally charging will bring both back up to their full charge much quicker than internally charging.

Alrighty then, it's $100 to be a Developer like I already mentioned. Like Evolv does.

Escribe is an Apple App. It's free. If a developer wants to use the app store to market their wares, some are totally free, some have a cost ..... advertising or money. They only get their 'cut' from the ones on the App store. 😉 Just saying, but I've never had an update ever pushed without my knowledge 🤣

No Bill, no licensing fees. Other than paying to be a Developer which was super cheap. There is a lot of shareware or freeware out there. But for even more details, this explains things better by reading the highlighted 'Important' box. https://developer.apple.com/documentation/security/notarizing_macos_software_before_distribution But waiting months is funny not funny. 🙃

What I don't understand is WHY everyone experiencing this issue goes SILENT? 🤷‍♀️ The OP says no PC 2nd dude ......... dead quiet Is this still occurring for anyone? Now waiting on an update from @Psyentist

What can I say. If that's the best info you can provide, start escribe, look under 'Help' -> Backups, and restore to a time before all that pressing 🤷‍♀️

You might wanna do a restore defaults first, which will put the default evolv one back on it, and see if the problem disappears. I can only ever vouch for the evolv default seeing as how there are so many different themes. Did it come with the stock default Evolv?

I'm a Mac guy, but you might want to reinstall SP24 and try that. Found here https://www.evolvapor.com/escribe and plug into a native USB 2 port. Good luck.

@Psyentist What theme is on your mod? Is it the standard default Evolv (Dark blue, minimal graphics)?

@Psyentist You can find the earlier service pack (SP25) here https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-early-firmware-and-escribe-suite/?do=findComment&comment=936554