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Everything posted by Wayneo
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Good to hear you're all sorted. Anecdotally, my 5 LiPo DNA mods all prefer being kept in use, or they'll go out of balance. Mind you, they are all ~4 years old and still have long life. I saw another user with a Plus, and if you have one you should go to Mod -> Battery page in escribe, and if the Battery Type says Lithium Polymer, you Change the battery type to Lithium Ion 18650. Then Upload settings to mod.
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I should really have merged or deleted this post a year ago 😃 Yeah, One of those users who posted the same question twice. 🙃 Never came back to answer a question in his other duplicate post. #rageposting
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Thank you for the screenshot 👍 Yeah, I know, I already said that. After seeing that green line I was saying I should have. Moving on, that's horrendous that SteamCrave would configure those parameters. Change the battery type from (Lipo) Lithium Polymer, to Lithium Ion 18650 Ideally, you should use your actual battery specs and run the analyzer yourself, or search for someone elses curve for your battery. Upload settings to mod.
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It's right there below the 'Power' I asked you to post a screenshot of your Mod -> Battery page. I only asked if you had changed it.
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I hope all these comments relate to the screenshot you posted. If you look at my screenshot (3) you'll see my cold ohm raised from the live ohms (from .363 to .430). Yours are a flat line. So long as your coil is SS your live ohms should rise no matter what based on your answers. You can try swapping atty's, and the current on working on your Plus should work on the Pro. During the swap, check the positive connection on your atty's are tight, and wipe down the threads on your mod and atty with a qtip and some ISO or windex. Edit: I didn't ask you to click on the Power Set option, but if you looked at the screen you might've seen the 'low battery' warning based on your green line. And there are no values shown like in my screenshot (3). Edit 2: And can you post a screenshot of your Mod -> Battery page. Did you change the battery curve on that Plus?
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So, I can recreate what you're saying. If I change profile, take a few puffs, pull the batteries, wait 10 minutes, put batteries back in, the mod does restart using the previous profile. This is what you're saying. If I change profile, take many puffs, let the mod idle (I dunno I didn't set a timer) pull the batteries, wait till after dinner, put batteries back in, it restarts to that changed profile (not the prior). I had never noticed before because that's not how I vape. I rarely change profiles once I have an atty setup, usually. I will notify @JacobEvolv here, but really the best way would be for you to open an official trouble ticket at the Help Desk.
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Glad to hear you're enjoying your mod. 👋 No, there is no custom wattage or temperature curve based on seconds. But you can open a Help Desk ticket and give them your suggestion. Link in my signature line. I have never seen this or heard of this before. What settings change?
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This can be one of the most difficult issues to find due to so many different reasons. Was this a new coil or new wire or a new atty? Was the coil checked for any hotspots before using, and screws were still a tight connection? Was the coil installed at room temperature? Describe the coil and Ω's. Using Atomizer Analyzer tell me how much the coil fluctuates over a minute. While taking a puff using Device Monitor (and the same 3 fields as below(1)), pause the screen (2), hover your mouse over near the end of the puff (3) and click for that vertical line, and post the full screenshot like I did.
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evolvdna New Evolv Default Enhanced DNA75C-100C-250C
Wayneo commented on Khaled Shehab's file in DNA 75 Color, 100 Color, 250 Color
If you continually make improvements; why don't you identify what was improved using the 'changelog' like others? why do you continue to post old versions along with the new and improved? Maybe keep 1 version back. By the way, what were the 'Many additions, modifications and improvements' for this edit/update? All I see is 1 (one) icon change. -
Watch that video on DNAs, as some terminology will be new to you. Are you in a non TC profile such as 'watts' ? If you are, do what you'd normally do -> turn the watts down. The answer to that is No.⬇
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80 watts all day on a single battery is a tall order. 🤔 The best way to estimate would be to use this. Put in your battery specs. https://www.steam-engine.org/batt
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Hyperion 100c new user - is this normal?
Wayneo replied to Brainfog's topic in DNA 75 Color and 100 Color
No idea about the puff count issue as it's useless to me, but not all Fire button presses are puffs, and those get cleaned up when plugged into your PC that also has escribe. (But I have heard this before) Here's a thought, what theme are you running? How can you tell when this happens and when does it happen? TC requires your coil and atty to be room temp when you start. By removing the battery 2 things happen. It allows the coil to cool more and it also forces your mod to reread the Ω's. But YOU should also re-measure the Ω's so it's written into the mod. -
Is there a way I can copy the settings of a different mod.
Wayneo replied to jsd540's topic in DNA 75 Color and 100 Color
There is no wattage curve. But, in a Profile where a NON TC material has been selected you can do a BOOST PUNCH. It's a set 1 second slider. Effectively a hard normal soft like other mods, to give a coil that extra to start vaping quicker. You might want to turn your watts down a bit, with Punch at 5, and work the punch up or down. That might delay burning your coil. EDIT: What kind of mod? You've posted this in the 'Reflex' area -
preheat kanthal dna75 (2022) Just use Boost Punch
Wayneo replied to abraxas's topic in EScribe, Software and Firmware
This is a 5 year old post. On all boards except the OG DNA200, no trickery is needed. Just use the Boost Punch feature for a 1 second proportional watts increase -
Thanks for that @BlackFireDragon 👍 Up near the top left you'll see the voltages for each cell. Cell 1 and cell 2 are both discharged to such a low state that the board will not recover them (charge). IMHO you need a new battery. Cell 3 and 4 look like the standard shipping voltages before ever being fully charged and that low puff count and mWh usage (bottom right) and seconds would say it was like this when you got it. I'll just briefly address your last post as you directed it to @retird. The maximum charge rate on ALL 250C boards is 2A, no matter what you read. Batteries don't know %'s. Most Lipo's consider each cell at 3V as their fully discharged value and part of the built in board protections just will not charge a battery as shown.
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I get the jist of what you are saying. Can you start escribe, then Device Monitor and a full screenprint with your mod plugged in. It should look like this.
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If it's only the colors Start escribe with mod plugged in. Go to mod -> Mechanical -> screen type and try the other 2 options. Always Click Upload settings to mod after any changes. OR Start escribe with mod plugged in. Go to Help, Backups, and restore from a time before you did restore defaults. Always Click Upload settings to mod after any changes.
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Version 1.0.0
549 downloads
You can download them individually or as a .zip.csv file containing all 6, but you'll need to remove .csv file extension Steam-Engine files NiFe (Reactor_Wire) - TCR in vaping range 4000 ×10-6 NiFe30 (StealthVape) - TCR in vaping range 5000 ×10-6 NiFe30 Resisttherm TCR file - TCR in vaping range 3200 ×10-6 NiFe30 Resisttherm TFR file - TCR in vaping range 3355 ×10-6 Nifethal_52 (Alloy52) - TCR in vaping range 4036 ×10-6 Nifethal_70 (Alloy120) - TCR in vaping range 5250 ×10-6 These Steam-Engine files and TCR values were sourced from here http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz# Here's how to understand or create just a custom TCR file from the 'TCR in vaping range' values or given to you by a vendor. Nifethal_52 (Alloy52) value 4036 ×10-6 you would create 0.004036 as the TCR value Vendor says 404 you would create 0.00404 as the TCR value Some vendor datasheets list the NiFeXX to denote the Nickel content like here. You need to take care. While others list NiFeXX to denote the Iron content like here -
If that's all you changed or tightened ...... yes. The DNAs require very solid and clean connections.
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@raberone Well that's much better. Those all look as if they worked fine in TC. @BillW50 That last puff peaked at 92°C Bottom left hand corner which is quite low for temp, and constrained by the 16 watts
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I will assume you did not do TempCal Init on your Dani, and it was set for normal watts. Your DNAs should still work fine for TC vaping even though they both read the coils slightly higher than your other mods, as they were both calibrated. You will notice on escribe in all of the profiles the coil resistance is always stored as an Ω and temperature pair which is used to derive the base 20°C (which will be lower) That's the best I got.
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Wow! Even the Ω's are drastically different. We know your Rubrik works fine in the 75C. I think it has to be down to the connections on the Abyss. That small 0,001Ω fluctuation with Atomizer Analyzer is normal. Do you have another RBA that works in TC on the abyss? @BillW50 dont't you have an Abyss, and does yours work in TC?
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For both tests was it the same Rubik rba with the same coil? AND did the Abyss switch to OFF?
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I would not give up so easily raberbone. TC works easier with a spaced coil or you really gotta make sure there are no hotspots with a contact coil. At the bottom of the Profile page is Atomizer Analyzer, and with your mod plugged in it should show very small fluctuations, or a small rise then dropping (rinse and repeat). Then using Device Monitor (while taking a puff) with Power, Power set, cold ohms, live ohms checked/enabled we/you can monitor exactly what's going on. Screenshots appreciated.