Asmodeus

Just wanted to point out for posterity, I put in a ticket, sent it out, and they had it back in a day or two running. Evolv is serious business. They really took care of me. Credit where it's due. Thank you. I really appreciate you guys.

Yup, seems like a plan. Just did that. Not sure how it fragged. It wasn't a horrible tumbling drop onto concrete. It was about 3ft onto carpet. And the Starss box is pretty solid. I don't SEE anything, but I didn't pull the board from the holder, just slipped it out to have a look with a light. I've had ZERO issues with this box or board so far. First time I dropped it too. (I've been using it since April) I've tipped it over. But this was the first time it has actually fallen any distance. My luck lately has been, well... *sigh*... one thing after another for the last month... just unrelenting... lol!

It smells like something arc'd in it when it's opened up. Faintly. Very mild electrical short / burn smell. Fuse passes continuity test as far as I can tell. No clue.

Round. Cell 1 = 0 Cell 2 = 5v (which is usb input, I'm assuming.) The Starss box is set up to run either with a quick swap of parts. I checked the output + and - from the pack at the tray before it sees the board and it's 8.X volts. So the pack and or battery tray isn't the issue. It's something else. What I don't understand is how the board powers on if you hold the fire button. And it shows 2-3v on the device so long as you hold the button down and have pack voltage on the display. It fluctuates but will not fire obviously because it's seeing too low of a voltage. It does not register the atomizer either. You cannot run atomizer analyzer. Same atty (VV Pyro) fires on the DNA 250 I built. No problem. The drop didn't effect it at all.

It's a Starss DNA 200. I had it plugged into escribe on a short cord to update a profile and I knocked it off the desk when I went to pick it up. It will power up if I hold the power button IN, but it shows like 3.x V on the screen and as soon as I let the button go it turns off. Not sure what broke. Plugging it into USB will keep it on and it shows 5V. I have tried unplugging the battery tray and connector at the board. And reconnecting. I checked the inside of the battery try wiring and it doesn't appear to have lost a wire, but I'm not 100% certain. It won't do an atomizer test, but will do device monitor. Think I lost a ground? Not sure what would cause it to only turn on while the power button is held in. It fell on it's side flat. Screen works. Don't see any solder's off. Really uncertain where to look. It gets power, but only if the fire button is held. (enough to turn on only) What did I kill? It will read / write to the chip. I wiped / restored defaults. And reloaded the profiles and settings. It 'works'. But something is hosed.

It may. I dry burn a coil every two days at about 50-70W. Full screaming red hot - then quench it under water and scrub with dawn and a tooth brush. I usually get about a month out of them or so. They are big clunkers, fused clapton between twisted, or clapton and fused clapton. .06-.09ohm. 3.5-4mm ID. I burn them when I form them. So... maybe I just never notice. I think the gray is the crud you aren't getting off... because when I scrub them for the first week or two they come out shiny still. Is there an issue with bumping the temp 20-30*? Why don't you just burn them in the beginning when you make them, that way once it's set - it's set even if you burn them to clean them? The DNA will hold your desired temp like a boss. So isn't faster better anyway?

If I would have seen that before I built my own enclosure - I would have bought that instead... So, looking at the Oni, and the Player. It appears they are the exact same. But it also seems the plates, pieces, buttons etc are pretty much out of stock. $75 is kinda nuts considering that's what the board costs. I'd rather have the blue one and the DNA 250... but I could buy 2 of those. *sigh*. Guess I'll have to think about it. That's a good price. I think I'm gonna do it just to have a back up.

I like the shiny blue one. It's a dual 18650 DNA 250 mod. About the size of my P+ case. Despite the fact it's going to be the worst juice/fingerprint magnet on earth. Does anyone have one, or have any feedback? I see a lot of threads on Lost Vape and other 'produced' mods with DNA boards in them, but no Oni. https://www.elementvape.com/asmodus-oni-167w-dna250-tc-box-mod I could use that one for my 18650's and strip apart my P+ build, LiPo it, and then put a squonking 510 in it. (Since I already have it apart to fix it anyway.)

I ripped it apart. The 510, which obviously had loc-tite on it, well she came out kicking and screaming. The loc-tite did it. It creeped down into the ground ring and must have caused the issue. I hit the majority of the main connections just to be certain. Pack positive and ground. Out put and chassis ground. I was really wrestling with it to get the 510 out, and things didn't look as solid as they were before I started. I cut a groove in the 510 to lock in place with a screw driver, so I could hold the nut with pliers, and finally cracked it loose. After cleaning it up a little and chasing the threads which were super wrecked. I had to know whether it was shot or not. Grabbed an expendible atty and crammed it all back in the case. As of this moment it works. In TC. With SS. Soooooo.... Don't use loc-tite. Which is a damn shame actually because I was able to crank an old atty down with vice grips and it wouldn't ?back spin the 510 loose. It bent the SS posts on the deck if that gives you any idea the amount of torque I was able to apply without having the 510 turn when I broke the atty loose. I already have 510's coming in so some glue to reset it and zip that pad off and I should* be rolling again. Assuming I don't screw anything else up. Which would be a big assumption I guess.

Thanks for that. I had an idea about the battery meter being tied to pack voltage that I think would be a snap for 18650 guys. (Instead of the battery calibration) Maybe they'll consider giving us round cell guys a more casual battery meter option. (I hope!)

No problem. I won't then. Do we think there's a minute possibility of a software issue from the scrambled numbers appearing on the screen before it pooped? Is there a way to do a global save / like for all my settings on the device and maybe do a factory reset? Or are we all pretty sure the 510 is hosed? (Either from heat or loc-tite) It's a VT V2. I didn't nuke it with the iron, and I let it cool between each process. But you never know.

No more thinking. Just answer what we need to know so we can rule things out... Are the batteries that you are using the EXACT same manufacturer, type, and have only ever been used and charged as a pair? Yes or No. This is a known good, mated set of batteries. If not, then it is going to be impossible to rule out the batteries themselves until you put a NEW, matched set of batteries of good quality in the device. The DNA is a smart smart little chip. It knows when things aren't right.

My 510 is grounded via ring terminal under the 510 nut against the enclosure ceiling. I put the loc-tite mostly under the pad of the 510 itself against the top flat surface of the box, and a very small amount on the threads. I'm not entirely sure if it would break the connection or not. I did wonder. I'm trying to include anything I did in case I buggered it up. But having the 510 back off with the atomizer on Easter reminded me this can still happen, when... well, it did. Because you can't really get to the nut with pliers (AplineTech P+ box, in 18650 config) tightening the 510 is a little awkward. I use an old Igo F? which is maybe 10mm in diameter threaded into the 510 and spin the (510) top in slowly after making the + connection outside the enclosure hole with my free length of wire. I can then grip the edge of the 510 pad that over hangs the door (real real hard with my fingers) and crack the Igo loose with pliers. It's dodgy at best and never really allowed me to crank on it, so I figured a little (blue) loc-tite under the pad and the smallest amount on the threads would give it some extra staying power without having to try to force pliers into a space they don't really fit. I plugged the DNA into the comp at my workstation and it reads nada on the 510. My board + & - out are taped over so I don't know if I can short them directly. That won't blow the fuse correct? (My board mount is glued in... so... when it comes out it's pretty done-zo) And I really don't have the hands to try to do a fuse while it's inside. I wish I would have drilled the enclosure for screws and made everything pop in and out. Next one... I'll do a better job.

I had a string of numbers appear over the temperature numbers when vaping. Instead of 500*F it was 411223222 or something to that effect. It was too many numbers to fit in the space and I'm surprised I noticed. It did that a few times, then kicked me out of TC. 3 days ago the 510 loosened up from a tight RDA and I desoldered the positive connection, and put some loc-tite under the pad where it sits flat on the box top. Put it all back, everything was working fine, and honestly has been working a lot better since I went back in and touched up the pack wiring a few weeks ago. Switched to power mode and it was fine. I decided to piddle with it, took out the batteries, still no TC. No clue what's up. Try a different atty, no dice. And then it just gives me check atomizer and is basically done. It won't fire anything. I'm thinking the 510 died, but I don't understand why I was getting a number string on top of the temperature setting, then, poof 510 dies? I already ordered a few VT 510's just in case that was the problem. Could it have been the board though? Atomizer that was on it went on a different mod and fired no problem. If I killed the 510 when I desoldered it. Wouldn't it just have died on the spot? I didn't get any erratic performance giving me an indication other than the board spitting out gibberish then poof. I'm confused.

Could possibly be unrelated. But I have a Coilart Mage RDTA and it screws apart so you can fill the little bottom section. It essentially has 2 510 pins that meet in the center because you can use it as a normal RDA by screwing off the tank and installing a plate. Man do I seriously have to crank that thing down or it has issues with the DNA. I have to loosen it from the 510 on the mod and then hold the bottom and top and crank against the airflow stops with both hands to really snug it up. I'm using 316L claptons in it from advanced vape supply. Everything inside that atty is gold plated. The entire deck and clamps etc. It should be ideal for TC theoretically. I isolated it to the center pin halves after a lot of troubleshooting. RDTA's made a bit of a resurgence lately, so if yours screws apart, and you're using a wire like 316L. Everything has to be really right. The DNA is so accurate it's "picky".