BillW50

You can change the brightness, but not the contrast that I ever heard of. Some themes allow you to change the brightness right on the mod. Otherwise you can use EScribe.

10 minus clicks displays serial number on an iTaste SVD 2.0 (DNA20). Might work that way with other DNAs too. And coupled with the fact the wattage keeps dropping,.. sounds like the down button is intermittently making a connection. Or at least the board thinks so.

Probably the best way to learn themes is to download some and see how they did it in the Theme Designer. Change the watt increments? I know Frank's Theme does it right on the mod. Otherwise I'm a bit rusty (so I might be wrong). But I believe it is here in the Theme Designer.

The hardware can't do it since there isn't a boost converter onboard.

Well the DNA40 would automatically detect Ni200 or not (not sure about the DNA25). But the ones with Replay doesn't care about the wire type if you use Replay under wattage mode (assuming it is a TC material).

Because at full charge is when the cell is at 4.2v at less than 100ma while charging. Then charging is complete and thus is shut off. Cells will then quickly settle down to 4.14v to 4.16v range when charged correctly within minutes. It is all perfectly normal and you don't want your cells to stay at 4.2v (by float charging) since it will shorten their life drastically.

I see nothing wrong with 3.3v @ 30A if you wanted to go that route. Both the DNA60/75 would run perfectly fine. What size cables to use depends on the length of cables you wanted. I believe both the DNA60 and 75 you could configure for no USB charging. Since trying to charge a DC supply would be pointless anyway.

It looks like it is waiting to be charged to 4.20v to me. It shouldn't take more than a 15 minute wait (unless it is balancing). Here is a video of using the battery analyzer.

There is something wrong between the battery connections and the wiring to the DNA60 that has high resistance causing a voltage drop. Cleaning the battery contacts might be all that is required.

Yes selecting LiFePO4 and save changes back to the mod and that should be it. Cells should be the same type and capacity, age, etc. But perfectly balanced isn't really important since the DNA monitors the state of each cell anyway. And if one cell is lower more than the others the DNA will throw up an error and won't let it do something it shouldn't. The DNA does cell balancing after charging, but it is slow. So being closely balanced beforehand will be a lot faster. The only problem I see is the default LiFePO4 Profile not reading the correct battery level. And running the battery analyzer will build a Profile tailored to those cells if it isn't right and your all set. You can change the cell cutoffs if you like, but it shouldn't be necessary.

LiFePO4 cells does drop in voltage as they are discharging, although not as much as other cells and are almost flat. DNA boards also uses watt hours to figure out the battery level. So even if the discharge was perfectly flat, it would still accurately read the charge level. You can run the battery analyzer or enter the correct value yourself with EScribe. The default LiFePO4 profile probably works fine. Yes LiFePO4 is settable under the manufactures interface with any 200/250/250C.

The chipsets 200/250/250C can use LiFePO4 and you need to change the battery type with EScribe. These chipsets require 2 or 3 cells (250C up to 4) wired in series. So I don't follow trying one cell first. Nor do I foresee any problems with the battery level reading. If you do, just run the battery analyzer. And yes, if the chipset knows you are using LiFePO4, you can safely charge them in the mod. And you can turn on the board without cells through the USB connection. It won't fire of course.

After a heavy drain, batteries tend to bounce back a little and could supply a larger surge if you wait a bit. Of course, it will be short lived.

Your resistance will fluctuate whether you're running in TC or not. As the DNA reads the live resistance. Yes you can run them in TC mode just fine. Using the SS316 profile should work. There are two ways to run TC. Either in Power Dominant or Temperature Dominant mode. Power Dominant mode vapes just like power mode. Toggling between Power Dominant and Temperature Dominant is selectable for each Profile in EScribe by checking or not the Temperature Dominant box. All is does is the change what the up and down buttons change. Power Dominant mode the up and down buttons changes the power up or down. You could set the temperature at max while you adjust the wattage. Once you get the vape where you like, you can drop drop the temperature until you notice the vape is getting cooler. Just set it a bit higher and then you are good. To change temperature from Power Dominant mode... 5 fire clicks to lock Press down up and down buttons for a few seconds Now press up or down buttons to adjust temperature

I also use the same and SS increasing in resistance is perfectly normal. SS coils from room temperature to vaping temperatures, the SS will increase resistance usually by about 20%. The resistance will drop back to normal at room temperature. Yours is changing by 60%. That is either running them very hot (way higher than 600°F) or the top nut (that holds the drip tip) isn't making a good enough connection. Usually loosening and retightening a few times cures it. If not, some cleaning maybe required.

Frank's theme is very popular. It also does virtually everything. Тема Фрэнка очень популярна. Он также делает практически все.

Because users don't like spamming either.

Yes the is the original settings and theme for the Odin Mini. I save all of my original configurations of all of my mods when I get them. Since someone will need them later.

Careful Wayneo, people might get the wrong idea that batteries and manufacture settings doesn't matter. 😉

Jason changed some manufacture settings like the Battery Analyzer, Cell Cutoff, Output current setting, etc. of which the manufacture should do. But most manufactures don't bother and just use the Evolv defaults. Which is a shame since they only have to do it once for every model. So people like Jason comes along and does it for them. The settings Jason changed should be the same or very close to the Odin Mini too.

Ah... this one. Yes Jason adjusted the configuration settings. Yes I could see how that could change the way it vapes.

You must mean Lost Vape Mirage theme maybe? Because there is the firmware which is generic and also the configuration settings too. So there are three different things we are talking about here.

The Thelema is a 200w device while the Odin Mini is a 75w device. The boost setting is going to act differently based on the maximum wattage of the device. Battery sag will also play a part in this too, since the device will throttle back power if the battery can't supply enough amperage (like when boosting). So those are two reasons that could be the cause.