BillW50

Yes I got mine on September 10th and I use both pods. And using the stock settings I was burning wicks anywhere between 4 to 14 refills. Most of the time I was using the stock lowest wattage too. Well I figured enough is enough and I turned boost off on all profiles and did the same with Warmth on September 20th. I only had 2 pods burn wicks since then and they both were 0.5Ω pods. Although my testing is still on going. And no, they can't take a lot of heat before the wicks will burn unfortunately (no more than 10 watts for the MTL pod and 13 watts for the DL pod). Although when they burn wicks, it always happens right after refilling for me. And I suspect what is happening is the wick becomes oversaturated. Then either boost or warmth (with Replay) cranks up the power to try to heat up the coil. Then it can burn the wick. What helps a lot is just using the lowest power settings and boost until you vaporize the excess on the wick. Now you can return to the setting you were using before until you open the refill cap once again.

It depends on the theme. Or are you trying to create one?

Yup same here. Drains them down to 0.5v. I have 3 other ones and they are fine. I suspect the BMIC (Battery Management IC) blew. I believe they go when you swap batteries too fast or interrupt the battery power quickly. Now I wait a minute before inserting a charged battery.

That I do not know. But Google might show something. Hopefully not something that you need to order by the thousands.

Wow! No kidding? I have two Paranormal 250C just sitting here on my desk (I have 8 DNAs on my desk now) that I know I haven't touched in a few days, one in a few weeks. And I picked up each one and fired and it fired right up. I do have autolock off on all of my DNAs. You think this might be it? What kind of mod is yours DNA board in?

Not sure if the DNA250 uses the same as the DNA200, but it is a BQ76925.

You have a BGA machine? Well yes, then you can probably replace the surface mounted chip.

Yes I have seen this on 3 DNA200 and 1 DNA75C so far and it appears to be a failed BMIC (Battery Management IC). After my DNA75C blew, I am leading on the belief all of mine blown when you disconnect the power and reconnect it back too fast. So now when I swap batteries, I wait at least a minute before inserting the charged cells.

You can't, unless you lock all of the buttons. ☹️

It occurs with any theme, take your pick.

Neither my 4 Therion BF 75C or two Paranormal 250C has verification stickers. Oddly enough, my two Triade 250Cs does on the bottom of the box. And there was at least two production runs of the Paranormal 250C. So that is probably why you see a difference.

That was the story I heard too. But places like eciggity (Hawaii) started selling both. I guess Lost Vape was shipping them (the ones with the pods included) out later.

I haven't found this matters if the coil is hot or cold. It also doesn't matter on the 75C/250C using Replay under wattage either. Replay/wattage is clueless about TFR/TCR and cold resistance. All it knows is what Replay's coil resistance is supposed to be at which you had locked it in.

The HCigar VT133 is one of the few that adds reverse battery protection with a DNA200 setup for two 18650s. I can't think of any others offhand.

Naw... both the XTAR VC2 and VC4 are good dang chargers. I use them all of the time. And so is the DNA200 for charging. The reason why the XTAR probably said only 75% charged is because you probably have EScribe setup for maximum charges, which only charges each cell to 4.10v instead of 4.20v. This makes the battery last twice as long as full charging them. Yes I know a lot about those Simpson analog meters too, I had used them for decades. I haven't used one in years now. But even though you get a reading on AC, it won't be correct reading. And it should work on DC. So something is wrong there.

10 to 15% I would not worry about. 20% is a little high. If that was the only one you had and is it livable?

Well when I worked in a lab (I am retired now) I use to have access to test equipment that I could test them. And you could push them way pass their specs most of the time. And without the equipment, I would try it and monitor the temperature and check for any voltage drop. For vaping, normally you would never draw more than 20 seconds tops. So even check for 20 seconds. No voltage drop nor any heat, I'd say you are good to go. Gee they want 10 bucks for those switches nowadays? Geez.

95% of the time I use Samsung 25R 18650s. They are inexpensive as far as the better batteries goes, rarely cloned, and can take 20v applied (at 5A) for 24 hours without blowing up.

The screens are not all made by the same manufacture. So the color and brightness can vary a lot. I have 13 DNA200 myself (two Triades) and I haven't seen any to be off more than 20% brightness from another. Why do you think yours is that bad or worse?

I don't see any marking flaking off. I see it clearly here. But I do see some gray furball inside of the USB connector. It is pretty bad too and I could see that stopping it from charging.

I too think the HCigar VT133 is the best DNA133 out there. I loved the first one so much, I got four more of them. They are also one of the easiest to swap batteries with and has reverse battery protection.

The Device Monitor allows you to fire the mod without actually pressing the button. What does that do when you try? And you had taken the lipo out to charge it? What did you use? A RC charger or something?

The coil resistance has to be within these using the 6v table on the right. Courtesy of VapingBad