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Everything posted by BillW50

  1. If nothing is broken and with the right equipment, yes it can be soldered back on. There are YouTube videos on how to do surface mounted soldering or SMD soldering. Whether someone without experience can pull it off the first time, I'm not sure.
  2. It is my understanding is with the DNA 100C, 100 watts is it. Whether it is continuous and/or boost. Even with a fully charged battery and say under a 30A load, the battery sag never drops below 4.0v. That means the battery can deliver 120 watts (30A * 4v). But the board will still not deliver more than 100 watts. And remember there is a fuse on the board. If you exceed the current rating it will blow. So that is another problem. Just because the battery can handle more than 100 watts, doesn't mean everything else can.
  3. You are referring to your ThinkVape Finder 250c, right? Did you try connecting to EScribe without the batteries installed? One of my ThinkVape Finder 250c, the positive of the battery pack was pinched and after 3 hours of use, the wire shorted to ground (the batteries must have added just enough pressure on the insulation). I'm glad I noticed the batteries getting hot and I ejected them right away. The thickness of their wiring is too thin IMHO. So I wouldn't be surprised if there was an open or heaven forbid a short in the wiring. But I would check to see if EScribe sees it without batteries first.
  4. Sounds like you are looking for one of these. Evolv 1A Micro-USB Data/Charging Board https://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-1a-micro-usb-datacharging-board/ Unfortunately Protovapor is out of stock. But this is what you might be looking for. They do have the DNA60 board in stock that does come with the charging board if you want to go that route. https://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-dna-60d-retail-box/
  5. You can create a material from a TCR from EScribe from the materials tab. Select add and then select the new material and click on the Actions button.
  6. I have to admit, this would be a very welcomed profile. After all, many non-DNA mods have it. Although @gwyar does have a point. You can skip TFR/TCR values if you use Replay in Power Mode. Although you do give up a temperature reading.
  7. Are all of these DNA problems from the same USB charger? Some cheap ones are not very well regulated. What does EScribe say the USB voltage is under the Device Manager?
  8. Some of mine I charge in the mod all of the time. One currently charging now is a Odin DNA250C. The SXK Supbox DNA60 is also often on the USB charger. I never had a problem charging in the mod or not and I've done it hundreds of times.
  9. The ones I charge or use EScribe/ECigStats a lot with for one reason or another. I use those magnetic USB cables like this to save wear and tear on the USB ports.
  10. I purchased the following Evolv products. OTHER (8) x2 iTaste SVD2 DNA20 x4 Lost Vape Orion Pod Mod (40W Boost) x2 Evolv Reflex DNA40 (5) x2 Hana One Modz DNA40 large screen x2 HCigar HB40 DNA40 V5 small screen x1 Vape.Tools Railbox DNA40 small screen DNA60 (6) x4 SXK Billet Box DNA60 w/USB x1 XvoStick DNA60 x1 SXK Supbox DNA60 DNA75 (8) x5 Kanger K1 DNA75 x2 Lost Vape Skar DNA75 x1 HCigar VT75 Inbox Squonk Kit DNA75 (Red) DNA75C (12) x4 Lost Vape Therion BF DNA75C x1 HCigar VT75D DNA75C x2 Lost Vape Mirage DNA75C - Black/Green Agate x5 Dovpo Odin Mini DNA75C DNA200 (15) x5 HCigar VT133 DNA200 x2 HCigar VT200 DNA200 x2 Wismec Reuleaux DNA200 x4 Hotcig DX200 DNA200 x2 Lost Vape Triade DNA200 DNA250 (1) x1 Wismec Reuleaux DNA250 Limited Edition DNA250C (25) x3 Lost Vape Paranormal DNA250C Standard Version x3 Lost Vape Triade DNA250C (300W) x2 Lost Vape Drone DNA250C x2 Think Vape Finder DNA250C (300W) x4 Lost Vape Centaurus DNA250C x5 Dovpo Odin DNA250C x4 Dovpo Top Gear DNA250C x2 Dovpo Riva DNA250C ~~~ 80 Total ~~~ None of them ever bricked on me. I sure like to know what you are doing with them.
  11. I don't mean to sound insensitive or anything. But if you want to use TC, SS904L is one of the worst materials out there. Since it barely changes resistance anyway while heating up compared to other SS alloys. Thus it is going to be frustrating even for the best of us. And your atty must have really solid connections if you want to use something like SS904L with TC. And some attys are well known for having stability problems with TC. Some manufactures even sandblast their 510 threads, which is a huge no-no for TC. You're using a Zeus X right? I have a few of them. But I never tried TC with them. Maybe I'll experiment a little and see how stable they are.
  12. http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz Shows the TFR of SS316L and SS904L have very similar curves. Except SS904L changes resistance much less. The TCR of SS316L shows 0.000879 while SS904L shows 0.000734. Hopefully @Darth vapes has the right material selected.
  13. Another thought occurred to me @AlexeyK, as it is hard to believe one of these switches started acting up. Maybe if you reflowed the solder to the switch and the corresponding chip just might solve the problem.
  14. Umm... @AlexeyK, I don't want to scare you. But when I sourced components like this in the past, they won't even talk to you if you just want to buy one. They will only talk to you if you purchase something like 5000 or more. Although if nobody offers a better solution, I may have found something that may work ok that you only need to buy in a lot of 20 or so. You can purchase something under the search of "Momentary Tactile Push Button Switch". I've seen them on Amazon and I am sure eBay probably has some too for about $9. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Liyafy-Switch-3x4x2mm-Momentary-Tactile/dp/B07TB62N4T If it were me, I'd probably remove the switch from the board and try to disassemble the switch and repair it. You also could try contact cleaner, but the switch is waterproof, so it probably wouldn't get in there very well if at all. If that didn't work well either, I'd probably grab a switch off of one of my defective boards I have lying around here. I'd guess that 99.9% of Evolv fire switches should last a lifetime. So I wouldn't worry about an used one.
  15. https://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-reflex-pods/
  16. Here's what the Double Barrel 3.0 board looks like. It sure looks like it could be using PWM. Maybe someone could tell better than me.
  17. Another thing too, is having hotter and cooler spots with your coil. So you get vapor produced at different temperatures. This is kind of hard with wire coils since you can easily get hot spots that are just way too hot. Although I noticed some mesh coils, are hotter and cooler just a little in some spots. Some mesh designs are better than others for this. And probably why some like mesh better than wire coils. I tend to like mesh better for that reason. Something else that can help too, is two or more coils. As unless they are exactly identical in every way, they are not going to be at identical temperatures. Same is true (and probably more so) for mesh as well.
  18. Just by controlling the ramp up time, so as to heat up the coil slower and thus hitting all of those different temperatures slower while the coil heats up. And the only way to do this is by lowering your wattage. You also can vary temperature by not vaping with a constant draw, but by varying it a bit. Yeah well, easier said than done.
  19. The material shouldn't make any difference in wattage mode. And maybe I could explain PWM this way (and we don't really know if the Double Barrel 3.0 is really using PWN). But imagine if you could fire and release the fire button on a DNA mod like 32 thousand times per second, that's what PWM it is actually doing. The DNA boost setting just applies more voltage at the beginning of the vape to heat up a cold coil faster. Depending on the coil, you may not even need it. Since many simple coils heats up virtually instantly anyway. The Double Barrel 3.0 doesn't sport any boost from what I can see. How you might get a more flavorful vape from PWM is because instead of a solid voltage being applied like the DNA, which gives you a very steady temperature at the coil. PWM switches on and off so much, the temperature also jumps up and down a bit. And depending on the juice, could produce a more flavorful vape.
  20. I can't see how it could taste different. As both the DNA and non are just putting out a straight DC voltage as an output (with boost off). There are some non-DNA (rare) mods that doesn't work that way and putout pulse width modulation (PWM). Those doesn't putout a straight DC voltage for wattage, but pulses a much higher wattage and then switches to 0 watts and switches on and off thousands of times per second to simulate adjustable wattage by averaging the width of the pulses. Maybe that is what you like. I looked at the DB3 board and it is tiny. And it very well could be using PWM. PWM mods will sometimes produce a high pitch sound that some can hear when firing. And sometimes you can feel the vape pulsing. I can with my VAMO, which is my only PWM mod I own. It is seen as a poor man's wattage control and very cheap to manufacture.
  21. I never noticed any difference between DNA mods and non-DNA mods in wattage mode when vaping, except some (maybe most) non-DNA mods will putout more power than what you have them set at. So to get the same vape, I have to set them at a lower wattage than I would with a DNA. I have one SXK SEVO-70 board that you can set it to 10 watts and I'm sure it is hitting over 30 watts. That is the worst one I have for being off.
  22. I grabbed a DNA250 mod that I never used, connected with USB and I got nothing. I can connect it to EScribe and program it, but the screen never lights up. Put batteries in it, the DNA250 fires and the screen lights up just fine. I did hear the DNA250 will power up the board with just 3.2v before. But I don't believe it will fire.
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