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BillW50 last won the day on February 2

BillW50 had the most liked content!

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About BillW50

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  • What DNA product do you own or plan to buy?
    Centaurus, Odin Mini, Odin DNA250C, and Top Gear

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  1. That spot occurs when juice gets inside of the screen.
  2. That graph it should be vaping perfectly fine. Ohms is holding steady too.
  3. Ah yes, I have a few FreeMax Mesh Pro tanks too. Those coils takes a lot to turn them all the way in until it clearly won't turn any further. I wasn't screwing mine in all of the way at first since it is so tight before it bottoms out. But that could be part of the problem. Nice graph, but on the left you need to have voltage, current, and live ohms checked too. You also need to take a few puffs too. That way it will be easy to see what the DNA is having a problem with. It would be really nice to get a graph of the ohms jumping around too.
  4. Dang, what kind are these tanks? Are you using wattage or TC. Ever used EScribe before to take a screen shot of a few puffs under the Device Manager with live ohms, temperature (if using TC), power, voltage, and current checked. Like this (except this example doesn't have temperature checked since it is in wattage mode).
  5. Are you running in power mode? Because some mods (not the DNA or YiHi) read the resistance just once and done. Although any mod under temperature control must also read both the cold resistance and live resistance. Which resistance the mod displays depends on the firmware of the mod. So not seeing the resistance jump around doesn't necessarily mean it isn't. You can lock the cold resistance of the DNA and YiHi mods, then it should act like your other mods. But that doesn't solve your problem per se. But it should vape better anyway. As for the resistance jumping around, it sounds like you
  6. Yes it is missing in SP24. But it is there if you use SP22 (US) or SP23 (INT).
  7. You mean temperature to flatline, right? Wattage is will automatically adjust to keep the temperature at the set value. Unless of course it is set low enough that it can't reach the set temperature, then it will give it all. Just like wattage mode. TC will just throttle the wattage to keep it from going higher than the set temperature.
  8. Yes it will reread the cold resistance, so no worries there. Letting the mod cool down isn’t such a big deal, unlike the coil. Although it does affect it a bit. Yes the Replay looks normal and slight different max temperatures is perfectly normal. Although once it hits the set temperature, the line should be fairly straight. So should the live resistance. Notice it is a bit wavy? This is usually a connection problem like a coil is not tight enough. I remember pbusardo saying that Kayfun’s doesn’t have solid enough connections for TC. He said that years ago, so maybe that was back the
  9. Yes, let the coil cool down first, at least 15 minutes. 30 would be better. And no need to lock the ohms if connections are good.
  10. RealMcCoy I believe is talking about the graph on the DNA75C screen that is called Puff Info on the default theme. You can page back to like the last 400 puffs. And each one is numbered. The last one is a number higher than the non-resettable puff counter. I am pretty sure the board sensor is in the processor (or some other high heat component) and the room sensor is a sensor on the board. I could be wrong though.
  11. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention about the room temperature. Remember the (DNA) room sensor is on the board. And the board is inside of the mod with very few vents. And inside it gets heat from the 510 (atomizer firing), the board, and the batteries. So inside of the box it is likely going to be a bit warmer than the room temperature. So that explains that one. But it is close enough to work well with TC and Replay. As it takes the room temperature into account with coil temperature.
  12. Also what do you mean about the CSV file that the last two numbers are on top of one another? Here is the CSV file for SS316L. "Temperature (degF)","Electrical Resistivity" -40.0000,0.9347440000 68.0000,1.0000000000 122.0000,1.0300000000 212.0000,1.0800000000 302.0000,1.1260000000 392.0000,1.1680000000 482.0000,1.2070000000 572.0000,1.2460000000
  13. That sounds about right for lower temps for fruit flavors. And it sounds like when you use wattage mode, you are vaping at higher than 420°F. Maybe that is why you like the flavor better? By the way, Replay under wattage mode will also give you dry hit protection. So no worries there. The CSV files from steam-engine are calibrated curves based on the material. If you change them it will no longer be calibrated. You could create a calibrated one yourself with the right equipment. As for willy-nilly changing one, I don't know why you would. It most likely wouldn't vape right. As f
  14. Different flavorings will peek at different temperatures. Plus your graph shows you are going straight to 420°F from the get go. This isn't how wattage mode works. As wattage mode ramps up through a range of temperatures. Thus depending on the flavorings, you will likely be hitting different flavor peaks during the puff while going straight to 420°F won't. The easy solution would be to just use Replay under wattage mode and to be done with it. Although if you do want to continue with TC, I'd drop the wattage until you get that slower ramp up through the temperatures. And you can set
  15. Well locking the resistance locks the the resistance that it assumes is at room temperature. Say the coil temperature is currently at 400°F (hot coil) and you lock it. Now it will be 400 - 70 = 330°F hotter than the set temperature. Since the DNA also has what is called refinement. Anyway you normally shouldn't need to lock the resistance. See for yourself from the manual. Now why would locking the resistance at room temperature cause it to stop firing (kicking out)? For some reason the DNA thinks the coil is heating up a lot faster than it should based on the sharp increase in re
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