BillW50

Oh that isn't good. Not will it even charge, but it shouldn't even fire with those readings. Unless there is juice in there that can be cleaned out, it needs to be RMA'd to Evolv. I have five VT133s myself.

That means it isn't seeing the atomizer. For most of us that means trying another atomizer. Or is this your only one?

The simple solution for Nichrome is to turn the temperature as high as you can go and one more click and it should display off. You could create a Profile for it and you can use it for Kanthal too if you want.

All links (doesn't matter what DNA you are using) are downloading the same 1.2 SP3. I checked that a few days back.

Who is selling clone Therions? This I have to see.

I would not be very happy.

Yes electrical contact cleaner is fine.

Well the DNA75 mods are running full out. The DNA200 mod is just cruising. The DNA75 mods are probably running one 18650 or 26650, right? Pushing 75 watts out of virtually any 18650 or 26650 is really pushing the limits and the battery sag is probably great. Run the Device Manager again with the two DNA75 mods and monitor the battery voltage too and I bet the battery voltage takes a nose dive.

Te black wire is ground (on one end) and the red wire (on the other end) is the total of all. Something between 9.0v to 12.60v. Between the black wire and the one next to it should be cell 1. Next to that one and next to the red wire is cell two. Between one and two should just read cell 2 voltage. Now measure between that one and the red one and it should be cell 3. All cells should read nearly the same and probably between 3.0v to 4.20v. The exact labeling is like this: Black = Ground White = pin 1 (between ground and this reads cell 1) White = pin 2 (between the first white [I think they are white or yellow] and the latter reads cell 2 Red = pin 3 Between pin 2 to red reads cell 3 If I just confused you, we will post a diagram.

[QUOTE=seti5]This was supposed to were a couple of questions that seem to concern more than one, on the efficiency of DNA75 and why literally eats batteries. Only that.[/QUOTE] I don't own any DNA75 mods, but I have a lot of DNA200 mods. And I get about 8ml of vape per Samsung 25R. And what I hear by others, they are getting the same 8ml per battery. Why are you getting less? My VT133 (two cell) vapes 16ml worth and my three cell DNA200 mods are vaping about 24ml per charge. Now contrast this with my two RX200 that only vapes 13ml tops per three cells. [QUOTE=seti5] I do not know what to do disparaging comparisons , but thereby generalize about a country of 1,400 million people , it is not the same as the notion that Americans are uncultured few who do not know where is Europe ?[/QUOTE] It is true that there are a larger percentage of Americans like that than most other countries. Although I blame it more on the mainstream media and the educational system. Both of them like to keep Americans in the dark. But there are other sources thank goodness.

Wow that is pretty bad, lkirk1387. Maybe cleaning the lipo connections and checking for leaked juice on the board.

Thanks for getting back to us. Hopefully that soldering job will last forever.

My five VT133 has the B&W style while my Triade (2), Reuleaux (2), and DX200 (4) mods use the blue screens.

Oh that doesn't sound good. What does the pack and individual cell voltages read within the Device Monitor?

Yeah that isn't right. What does it show while using the Device Monitor? Posting a screen shot would help us see what is happening. Showing at least the temperature, wattage and live ohms would be really helpful. Others would like to see the pack voltage too.

Yes it is pretty annoying to wait for your coils to cool down if it wasn't resistance locked beforehand. Although I have been known to set my temperature about 200ºF lower and adjust from there if I don't want to wait. Of course the temperature will change whenever the coils cools down and then the temperature will be too cool.

I use a Gopher CPS-3205 0-32V 0-5A Portable Adjustable DC Power Supply myself. But I often use it with a Electrifly Triton RC charger (my two are over 10 years old). And yes, those pin headers really works great and I use them myself. The power supply can be used by itself to charge batteries and cells. What the RC charger does differently is that it starts out charging slowly and works its way up to the set current (it takes 10 minutes to climb up to 2.5A). And the RC charger also stops when the top off charge is less than 100ma (if charging with the power supply, you should do that too). Also the RC charger has reverse polarity protection too.

Yes Lost Vape had them all setup. Here I made a copy of them.

The only negative thing I know about having a fuse on the negative side is in the RC crowd, it is well known that if you leave batteries always connected, the negative wire and connections tend to corrode. Although those were using NiCad and NiMH for the radios. I guess automobile batteries does the same thing. But I can't say if lithium batteries also has the negative corrosion problem. As I had never seen that happen.

Check the board for juice damage. Also check and clean the fire button. Also check closely around the balance connector.

What kind of wire are they using that it kicks back into temperature control (protection)? Anyway if you set to the highest temperature and go one click higher it will display off. And it never goes back.

Sure.

Is this for a 11.1v 2250mah lipo? Or two 18650s? Or three 18650s?

TC/TP can be used in two ways: Power Dominant - Use just like power (wattage) mode and set the temperature as high as you ever want to go and you regulate it by wattage. Here the preheat (punch) is really helpful. Temperature Dominant - This is just the reverse of Power Dominant. A good place to start with the wattage is about 50% higher than you normally would use wattage for what you are vaping. Now regulate the temperature for the vape you want. Okay either method you use, it is working by wattage only at first. Once it hits the temperature, wattage is out of the loop and temperature is now controlling the wattage to keep the temperature the same.

Sorry... This piece of advice just popped in my head and it just keeps repeating like a song stuck in your head. Yes I heard it before. If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.