BillW50

260°C / 500°F is too high of a temperature and will burn a cotton wick wet or dry. And your next post, running it without cotton it will still fire, but it will hold at the set temperature.

Google translator is doing a horrible job of translating. Anybody know English and Russian to translate?

So about 200° Celsius the cotton starts changing color?

What is the temperature setting that is browning your cotton? Dry cotton will brown higher than 420°F / 215°C people say. Wet cotton depends on what the liquid is. Dry cotton will burst into flames at around 726°F / 385°C I've read.

Do you have EScribe handy @Djini Biba and what does the Atomizer Analyzer show? 0.004Ω is the default Evolv setting I believe. Also the threaded rod is only screwed finger tight? If so, it might need to be just a tad tighter (less than 1/30th of a turn).

https://www.evolvapor.com/escribe Or direct downloads... https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP24_US.exe https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP24_INT.exe

You can use it now for saving different preheat and limit values. ☺️

Oh ok, I run older firmware and that must be in newer versions. 😀

I am pretty sure battery current is measuring battery charging current only. In case I am wrong, you can check this easy enough.

As long as the faded red wire isn't connected to either the red or black. I just shined a 1000 lumen flashlight through the fake ultem and the bottom right sled has two wires soldered on to the tab. Looking through the plastic, it looks orange. But it could be very well faded red. Those are the wires you should check. One should go to the top left positive connection and the other one should go straight to the DNA board. UPDATE: I just ohmed bottom right to top left and it is indeed a short on one of mine here. So that is correct.

Ah good. There is a wire on the battery sled that should be some other color besides black or red (white would be my guess). It connects to one cell on the positive and another wire going to the other cell's negative. And it also goes to the DNA board for balancing, reading cell voltages, and charging. Sounds like something not making connection with that wire IMHO.

Ok

Yeah I only give it a few hours to see if a cell is dropping and check voltage with another mod or an external charger. Waiting a day one cell could be dead and worthless because the voltage dropped too low (I wouldn't charge a dead battery, just dispose it). The DNA also won't charge cells in power supply mode. And I wouldn't trust the voltage readings from that DNA250C until we know what is wrong.

Just as a test, can you select the battery type Power Supply in EScribe? You have to be using the manufacture's user interface to change battery type and pick a 9v power supply. You have to upload changes to device of course. If it works just fine now, I believe it is either the battery wiring or the Battery Management IC. If it is the latter, you might see one cell voltage being drained lower than the other. The mod and EScribe won't see cell voltages when selecting power supply. But the one cell draining would be happening now and drain one cell down to 0.5v in a day or so.

Did you look at EScribe's Device Manager between the two? If not, even the puff info between the two on the mod should help explain it. I'd focus mainly on power and temperature curves.

VapeyMcGyver wrote a really in depth article on the DNA250C charging on Reddit which should explain it all. https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/ikjs1b/finally_tested_evolv_dna250c_usb_charge_function/

So it gets hot just throwing in a battery and doing nothing else, right? Sounds like the battery is getting hot when there shouldn't only a small ma drain. Thus that sounds like the positive battery wire is pinched somewhere shorting the battery out. They are easy to take apart if you want to go that route (see link below). It would be faster than shipping it to China or Evolv. Although Evolv would only deal with it if it is the fault of the board. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQcthfL9SPQ

I would love to reset the counter to any value I wanted to. For example, if I know a coil has 3981 puffs on it and put it on a different mod, I'd love to set that puff counter to 3981 puffs instead of 0.

No, you're fine. I never seen 4 cells with my Triades 250C with EScribe set using English. But I am sure it is just a software bug. Might be do to the language selected or something. Although I do see a 4th cell when using Frank's Paranormal theme. Actually, there are two cell 3s in that theme. And that 4th cell isn't connected inside of the Triade and thus what it is reading is erroneous anyway.

I've seen this when the wire material doesn't match the coil(s). And you also mention SS316L. Man, there is no such thing as the right CSV for all 316L. That wire is an alloy. And every manufacture and even lot is going to require a tweak to the CSV file to get it right on. And it sounds like you are not using SS316L with nickel legs, but even that can throw everything off by 25%. You sure picked the most difficult wire type to do TC with. You can get it right, but you are going to have to roll up your sleeves and do some tweaking. Sure you can buy SS316L from one manufacture and download a CSV file and it might be bang dead on. But that is the exception rather than the rule.

What is the cell voltages when at 50% and at 10-15%? By the way, I can vape hundreds of times on a charge with my 2 Triade 250Cs (soon to be 3 Triade 250C).

I remember some early 75C/250C Youtube video, the reviewer asked Evolv the very same question. And Evolv stated it wasn't necessary and so it was never implemented. I think it was in one of Daniel of DJLsb Vapes videos, but I can't swear to it.

Did you ever solve this problem? I never tried changing the temp to live update though, but that does sound like it is worth a shot to me. But I have to admit even without a live update, that puff curve for each puff is far more valuable to me. As I can see what the temperature was doing for each puff (and other things too). 😊

Well to be fair, Evolv makes the board and Lost Vape makes the pods (and Lost Vape is known for making mods, not pods, coils, tanks, etc [so I think they are just learning]). And I would have went with rayon instead of cotton and that should eliminate the burnt taste part. The coil itself could probably handle 40 watts fine (maybe as is). And you could use something higher than 13 watts and probably be ok. Although in my experience it is the opening the fill cap and getting the coil wick saturated is when the problem appears. The same for you?