Spector NS5 RD

Absolutely not, way too big. 6mm too big to be exact. I have a custom 3D printed 6mm spacer coming from the UK to go between the lid and box. Will update post with pics when the thing gets here.

There are so many safeties, not known to the average DNA user, your risk of frying the board is about 5% or less, regardless of the capabilities of the cells you're using. You're good to go. I have have 2 Sanyo 20700B cells (15 amp ones) in parallel with my DNA 75C and have not run into any issues running the board at max wattage and pre-heat.

Ya the copper slug works with all DNA boards that use EScribe.

My go at building a 250C...... Materials: Alpinetech 1590B with pre-cutouts DNA 250C Board Cradle 12mm Domed Tactile Switch Varitube V1 22mm 510 Infinity 4S 1500mah 90c Lipo 14awg Output silicone wires. 28awg enamel magnet wire (fire switch wiring) Waiting on a 6mm 3D printed spacer, from the UK, for between the lid and box . It’s a big a$$ lipo.....

if you have EScribe, i would definitely use the atomizer analyzer tool to compare known cold atty resistances between devices. if the paranormal is reading abnormally high, consistently, then i would contact the vendor about a replacement. Do you own a mod resistance calibration plug?

could it be a resistance issue? loose wire connection in posts? using spaced coils? what does atomizer analyzer "ohms" look like if you play with your build....tighten post screws and tighten atty down on mod while watching the value. the ohms should stay relatively stable. i had the same issue but i had to tighten my 510 GND brass nut on my DIY 250C box.

Ginger Vaper should of never put ANY type of thread lock/sealant on the 510 anchor threads. I better end it there. I'm not going to start my rant about my thoughts on GV. @AMDtrucking Glad you were able to fix your brand new Boxer! Enjoy the mod, it looks like a great combo, a DNA 250C in a squonk. I have yet to build my 250C box. So ya i'm a litle envious! lol

Ginger Vaper wouldn't be the first to use some sort of thread sealant on the 510. As SS's TCR is so low we need "the most bestest" connection from heating wire all the way to the board, including the following - spaced coils (for stability) / secure wire-to-post connections / clean RDA/RTA 510 threads + positive pin / clean mod 510 threads + positive pin (a good pre-load pin spring is always important. Just look at the length Evolv went to when they developed their own 510. They used a wave pre-load spring) / proper soldering + wire gauge. Added resistance, on top of what your coil would normally read, causes so many people to dislike TC because it becomes too much of hassle to dial in a vape. I see this issue trickling over to Evolv's "Replay" function. Resistance is a big part of TC's functionality as well as Replay's functionality. I would do what you're doing and try to remove as much of the "glue" as possible, get a solid connection going and i would go a step further and probably retouch the solder joints. BUT i'm a person who doesn't mind voiding warranties.

I often thought about how the FDA would pursue a "made after Aug 2016" case. My guess is it would be very hard to prove whether a product was manufactured and marketed after the deadline date. How hard would it be to cook up a receipt / paperwork stating a device was available on the market on or before Aug 8? Probably not hard at all. You're telling me all these YouTube reviewers coming out with RDA's / RTA's / Mod's etc., had these products soft launched on or before Aug 8? . If (when) the worst happens, there will still be many "various" avenues to procure vape hardware related items. I do wonder what will be the fate of the thousands of U.S. eliquid manufacturer's. Even 0 mg nic juice is considered a "tobacco product". We need loop holes or a drastic change (cash, dump trucks full of cash) in the opinion of vaping, in the FDA's eyes. Otherwise, it's CLOSED SYSTEMS ONLY.

@iambyrdman Nobody what? Build help? Building what......coils......a mod? Go ahead and ask your question(s).

I found an old board and measured the size and resistance. resistor size - 0402 / 100 ohms https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Holsworthy/RN73C1E100RBTG?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhGwtsVGeGBhoIhlYypu0mXVQ%3d OR https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/yageo/RT0402DRE07100RL/311-2216-1-ND/6128635

Would the cost of shipping the board back to Evolv for replacement be too costly? You know Evolv will replace the board, free, under warranty. You only pay shipping one way. I don't have a board laying around to check for you. You can measure the remaining 3 resistors, individually, with a DMM to find the resistance. The remaining 3 should measure the same. My best GUESS for the missing SMD thin film resistor would be ( SIZE - 0402 or 0603) (RESISTANCE - 47 OHMS)

@John Vezirian If this mod has killed previous lipos, the problem is most likely after the lipo pack. This problem could be from - poor balance tap soldering, a broken balance tap wire, a smaller than a grain of rice resistor that has been knocked off the PCB, ejuice on or near the analog front end.......etc. etc. As it is almost impossible to diagnose a possible board issue through forum chat, i would suggest opening a help ticket with Evolv. The link is my signature at the bottom of this post. Evolv encourages people with board issues to contact them if the vendor or manufacturer fails to respond. I definitely would not waste any more lipos on this mod, for sure, until the primary issue is fixed. Sorry i don't have a "fix cell 3" setting for you to use in EScribe. This mod is going to be required to go in for warranty service, which lasts one year from the date of purchase.

Then most likely you need a new lipo. I would start there. The closest thing i found to direct a replacement is this >>>>>>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/UPGRADE-LIPO-BATTERY-1300mAh-3S-11-1V-EFUSION-VAPECIGE-CUSTOM-EVOLV-DNA-200-250/272517143930?hash=item3f73499d7a:m:maVwXKjZiS5g_nUNSbq71Sw:sc:USPSFirstClass!16148!US!-1 If the new lipo does not fix the issue then contact the manufacturer and Evolv.

@davidealda Device monitor is not showing ANY cells present. Do you have the lipo removed? 0.00 volts for pack and cells 1/2/3 could be a sign the board is bad. Even without cells, when looking in Device Monitor on any DNA 250, there should be some voltage present (around 1 - 2 volts - from the board being powered by the computer's USB). ... I would contact Vapecige and/or Evolv. Evolv's help ticket link is in the bottom of my signature..........

@Asfanews Have you contacted Evolv? If they can't send you a button assembly, i can. I have the rubber pieces and metal retaining clips. Just PM me.

@WickedJack Hey there! Assuming the AWT cells are of decent quality, yes that's normal for a sharp dip in voltage from 4.20v to nominal voltage of the cell(s). Is there a reason you prefer buying re-wrapped cells over buying actual Sony, Samsung, LG, Sanyo/Panasonic branded cells? FYI, those AWT cells are most likely the 3000 mah. 20 amp LG HG2 cells. They are definitely not 40 amps. There is no 18650, in existence, that is 40 amps. I personally use and recommend the Sony VTC5A for almost anything we vape these days. 2600 mah and 25 amp. They're are great cells and Device Monitor will show that. As for specific components to check on the board when diagnosing a "no image" problem, no not really. You would need a known good working board to compare voltages, resistances capacitances etc etc etc. Best bet is to contact Evolv. They're help link is at the bottom in my sig.

@pierlu78 It's almost impossible to measure capacitance with the component still in circuit. Best bet is to remove a "known good" capacitor from the same area of the board (as it is unlikely both side-by-side caps failed), measure it's capacitance and size then go from there. The package size is most likely "1206" as for the rated capacitance, i don't know. You could just remove the damaged capacitor and see how the board behaves with just one capacitor. My guess is it wouldn't hurt. This theory only applies to either the 2 caps at the top (OUT) of the board or the 2 caps i have circled in red. Shipping the board back to Evolv, for repair/replacement is too costly? I only condone working on boards if shipping the damaged board to Evolv is very expensive. EX. People over-seas.

First off, @Sovan you know Evolv warranties the board for 1 year. Even after one year it is still worth sending them an email about your situation. You never know, they might still help you out. The only reason i posted the link for the analog front end IC is for people who have experience with Hot Air Re-work stations and have a good understanding of soldering SMD components. This IC replacement is not for the average person who owns a soldering iron. I have experience re-flowing small BGA and QFN packaged IC's. RGE Package 24-Pin QFN With Thermal Pad

yes for wattage mode. to get your coil(s) up and running as fast as possible.

First thing to do is open a help ticket with Evolv from their website, regardless is you're past the 1 year warranty of their board. They might still help you out. My understanding is if a new board is installed, the 1 year warranty, for that new board, starts over. (help desk link is in my signature at bottom of page). If for some reason they can not help, you would need some knowledge of electronics to diagnose and repair a mod. You may also need some soldering skills, depending on the situation. Usually if any cell is not registering on Device Monitor, it's due to either a broken balance tap wire from board to battery tray or the BMIC (Battery Management IC) has has failed. The latter is the most difficult and requires the use of a hot air soldering station.

Super fast and easy way to find out if you're using a USB cable capable of carrying 2.0 amps from wall-wart to mod - If you go into EScribe / Screen Tab/ and select "USB Voltage" "USB Current" in the drop down menu, then upload settings to mod. Unplug USB cable from PC and plug into your wall-wart or USB charging hub. Wait for charging screen to appear on mod and take note of USB voltage shown on mod while charging. If the USB voltage is 4.27 or below, the DNA board will back off on charging current.(ex: less than 2 amps). On a typical DNA 250 with a quality USB cable connected to a power supply capable of supplying 2 amps or better with a quality cable, you should see a USB voltage of around 4.43v - 4.83v. You need sufficient voltage headroom to allow the DNA 250 to draw it's 2 amps capability.

The DNA 60 board itself is receiving a constant "down button" press signal, triggering the serial number to appear below the 1 watt increment. This could be caused by a few things; stuck down button, flux residue or juice on either the daughter board or main board, poorly soldered external button pinout joints, metal swarf floating around inside the casing. Without opening the device it's hard to tell. Unless you're somewhat experienced in electronics, i wouldn't open it. This can void any possible warranty you may have left on the device. Contact Vaporshark customer service. I have dealt with Vaporshark's CS many times and every time they have been very helpful and the RMA service is a breeze. Just go to the Vaporshark website and click "support". Or call VS directly. They do have a 1-800 number. https://www.vaporshark.com/contacts

,The "warranty service" message could also be due to a damaged usb cable. Can you post a screenshot of Device Monitor with all of the battery section boxes ticked?

I had this happen to me with my DNA 40 Xvostick. It was due to either leftover soldering flux or ejuice near or on the external button pinout on the DNA 40 board itself. I had to take the mod completely apart and clean the board with 99% iso alcohol. This solved the problem. Also, as dwcraig1 said, it could also be a stuck (stuck closed) down button.