Spector NS5 RD

Welcome to the forum @Muchis. I do know LV uses their own proprietary daughter charging board. If i had to guess, since it's almost impossible to diagnose issues like these over the net, i would say there is some cross-talk between the batt+ pinout and USB V detect pinout. Juice, stray solder balls and any metallic swarf on the charging board or on the DNA 60 board pinout can cause this. Unfortunately, the mod is going to have to be opened up to find out exactly what's going on. Are you in the US? You can open a help ticket with Evolv.

Very strange @Conanthewarrior. For 4 DNA 200 mods to fail at exactly the same time is more than coincidence. If all 4 were working fine before this event there has a to be a common element; I doubt you're that unlucky. IIRC, don't you like taking the mods apart and tinkering around with the internals? swapping boards and rewiring them? Only thing i can think of is you tried something on the first mod, it didn't go well, and you kept trying it until you ran out of DNA mods. Honestly, that's the only scenario i can think of. Throw up some DM screenshots of all 4 mods trying to fire with all of the battery boxes ticked and the atty you were trying to use at the time of death and maybe we'll see commonality between the 4 mods, otherwise it's "ticket" time.

@conradisrugged The iphone, regardless of iteration, cannot stay in an "off" state when trying to charge. As soon as a lightning connector is inserted an iPhone will automatically boot if the phone senses incoming voltage. You have to turn off the phone while it is actively charging to keep it in the off state. @Guy Nicolson The Iphone requires certain components located in the USB supply, mainly current set/negotiation resistors in the charger. These components are non existent on the 250C. If the iPhone's proprietary charging circuitry does not see these components it will NOT charge. There is actually data communication between an iPhone and the charger; charge current negotiation. Most after market USB wall warts and USB charging hubs have the necessary components in place to accommodate an iPhone. An Android based phone does not require this protocol. YAY! good job Apple........ (Apple being the special little snowflake) Don't feel bad, i too use an iPhone and my 250C will not charge the phone.

What cells are you using? Brand, mAh........ If you're using true 2500 mAh cells, try using a different number (lower) for your watt hour input in EScribe. Try 26 wh's. Calculated is never real world use. Next best thing is to run Battery Analyzer and get the specific curve for the cells you're using. If you let the mod sit for a while (15-20min) with the freshly charged cells, does the percentage read correctly? Sometimes the wh estimate (%) needs to readjust after new cells are put it inside. After all the % is an estimate and not an actual measured field; compared to against other readings.

Just like TC, when in Replay if the wicking starts to dry out, the power will decrease as needed. I like Replay for it's simplicity but TC will always be my home.

This sounds like a very unstable base resistance. What does Atomizer Analyzer, in ESCribe, say with the siren at room temp? are the ohms all over the place? The Nano used the board mount screws as the GND to 510, this method can result in unstable ohms. If the ohms start high then slowly fall with refinement, by a large amount, that means connection issues somewhere. You need to find the poor connection issues, whether it be the 510 needs cleaning the board mounting screws need tightening. Iso Alcohol 99% is what i use to clean my 510's out.

the RDA shouldn't cause booting issues. It sounds like either a loose batt wire connection, intermittent fire button, or faulty board.

Lipo used, 510 connector? Looks great BTW!

Just screw your aromamizer (room temp) down onto the mod, open EScribe, open Atomizer Analyzer and watch the "RAW OHMS" a solid connection will not fluctuate more than 0.001 - 0.003 ohms. Try slightly rocking the atty (while still tightened down on mod) (see if torquing down the atty onto the mod lowers the raw ohm readout.) (play around with tightening atty wire post screws, while watching raw ohms). Stability is a must with Replay or TC. Without it, you might as well just use VW. Also, the 510 positive post screw in the atty needs to be clean and tight. The 510 threading. The mod's 510 threads and positive pin also needs to be clean. I regularly use 99% iso alcohol to clean any connections.

It's either a wandering base resistance, shorting coil wraps, or a sporadic loose connection somewhere. EScribe's Atomizer Analyzer will show if there is any instability in resistance. Have you calibrated the "mod resistance" yet? Using a copper 510 threaded plug.

I know this doesn't really help you out with determining what peak/sustained input current values to use but have you seen Battery Mooch's tests of Lipo battery packs? According to him most packs are SEVERELY overrated by the manufacturer in terms of their C rating. I would leave the output current values at Evolv's default (65). Since it's a buck only topology, you'll never be asking for more than 32 amps from the lipo. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/ If i were you, i would leave the default values and watch how much voltage sag you see in Device Monitor firing a load at a high wattage. If there's lots of sag, start whittling down the peak and sustained current input values until the sag becomes less and less severe. However, lowering these input current values will reduce the power output of the device, as i'm sure you're well aware. Does this make sense? It does to me but my mind works in a weird way

I would use the "with door om" test numbers, as that will be how you actually use the mod in real world scenarios. I plan on running Case Analyzer tonight myself. I will post screenshot results when finished.

Every single time Replay has crapped out on me was do to a an instability in the base resistance, which leads to an instability in rising resistance when the coil is heating up (when you press the fire button). If "save puff" does not display after a puff, 9 times of out of 10 it's a fluctuating or an artificially high base resistance. You need to check, in atomizer analyzer, with a copper mod resistance plug and see exactly your static ohms are. Also, if you get "check atomizer" while in Replay, it's the same as i mentioned above. Resistance is HUGE part of Replay. A solid base res / electrical connection is crucial for Replay to work. Atomizer Analyzer is such a helpful tool. A copper mod resistance plug for the 510 is almost a must if you want the best, most trouble free experience. A couple thousandths of an ohm change (510 GND nut not tight, a cold 510 solder joint, certain anodizing coatings) translates into a crappy experience in TC and also for Replay. I understand the average person should not have to deal with making sure a manufacturer's mod has been assembled correctly. It makes Evolv's boards look incapable of delivering what was promised in a feature. On the same token, the user needs to make sure his or her settings, heating wire, EScribe settings and topper are correct for Replay/TC to function properly.

@Ryan Brooks Can you post a screenshot of Device Monitor with all of the battey options boxes ticked? An you are positive you have "3-cell" selected in EScribe and uploaded to the device? I would re-go over your battery wiring/soldering to the board, as well; balance tap connections and all.

Just a wild guess but i'd say you have connection issue somewhere. Have you calibrated the mod resistance yet? what does atomizer analyzer say? if you're getting a satisfying vape at "275f" that tells me the base resistance is artificially high. That means a poor GND and/or soldering/wires. Can you post some pics of the soldering, mainly from board to 510.

@smlemmon Replay has a "warmth" setting in EScribe and on the default Evolv theme. Although, it's labeled as "Replay" on the device. I think it's adjustable, just like "punch", from 1-11. It's under the "Atomizer" settings on the device.

In Escribe If that doesn't work the TCR of the coil (wire combos combined) may be to low. Or you have a mod/base resistance stability issue.

@AMDtruckingEvolv will most certainly take good care of you. Sorry hear your chip is causing you such grief. IS IT JUST ME, OR IS THIS PICTURE BORDERLINE PORNOGRAPHIC????

@AMDtrucking what happens when a USB cable is inserted for EScribe; does the PC instantly recognize it? Are you familiar on how to open the debug section of Device Monitor?

@AMDtrucking when you initially press the fire button, does the mod fire? fire but no screen? or no fire and no screen as well?

You sure you have the Varitube V2? I have a mods built with a V1 and V2. The V1 limits you to a max awg of 14 BUT the V2 really has no wire size limitations do to the re-construction of the positive portion you solder to. My guess is you actually have the V1. See on the V2 you have the entire positive platform to solder to. No brass fitting to slide the wire through. Makes use with bigger wires easier. As for the GND ring, you don't need to thread the wire through the wire hole, just solder the wire flat against the ring. You could even solder the wire directly to the brass nut.

If you never ran case analyzer then the room temp displayed will be incorrect. But even when calibrated it won't fluctuate like board temp. So it staying at 110F and not changing as frequently as board temp is normal (although the value itself is incorrect). If the board temp is all over the place that could be could be real or false reading. It's almost impossible to diagnose a problem through forum posts. Either way, contacting Evolv and Lost Vape is your best bet as i suspect this not fixable by your average consumer.

@Boopinhoopties You're board says 116f when only charging at an average of .6 amps. This value is unaffected whether case analyzer is ran or not. case analyzer only corrects the room temp readout. My guess is it's board related. Could be a variety of possible causes. Juice on the board somewhere / missing or failing thermistor (or some other board component). have you tried re-flashing the FW? just for the heck of it, couldn't hurt at this point. I'm not sure of Lost vape's warranty service but the board inside the mod is covered for 1 year by Evolv. I would open a help ticket with them explaining the problem.

@Boopinhoopties can you post a screenshot of DM with cells 1/2, USB voltage, USB current boxes ticked? It's a great tool for diagnosing problems. The USB voltage should not dip between 5v~4.27V during the constant current phase of charging. Slight peaks and valleys (a few hundred millivolts) are ok. The 250/167 should charge at 1 amp when connect to a PC. Current limiting will happen if : the USB voltage starts to sag around 4.27v / either of the two cells are close to 4.20v / the board temp is reading abnormally high or low temps / USB socket, on board, is wearing out (same for USB cable, itself). what version FW are you running? below is normal charging for a DNA 167 2 cell