Wayneo

I've seen some of his where they were named like soft, medium, hard, no preheat, etc. If you liked/used those (which are still perfectly fine), then with your red text, you end up choosing the type of profile and change material only. OR You set up specific profiles based on material/wire, and use that for a complete setup. Personally, I use a combination of each on a mod where it's painful to get escribe access.

Rasta, there are 2 different ways. Your RED text above allows you to change materials 'on the fly' and follow the preheat, punch, time, watts set for it right now. Used if you want a soft, medium, hard type settings. To change to a new profile completely (like your 316 profile); hold up and down button at the same time till screen displays message quick double click either button (displays current profile name) click either up or down button to change to next complete profile click fire button once you reach the profile you want hold up and down button at the same time till screen displays message If you followed your red text that can happen.

Seeing as how @James gave you a method, here's a touch more detail. Steam-engine, wire wizard. Use material of your choice, click equivalents, put in desired temp of your test. In new material type, use the same wire profile, it will show the resistance required for that temp. If I'm wrong hopefully someone else will chime in.

How did you 'measure' this? Seems pretty high, but each mod can be different. Kanthal should be pretty much rock solid steady. I'd check all the connections are tight.

There you go, right in Post 1.

I haven't needed or seen one. If a search yielded no results you can officially ask here; EVOLV HELP DESK

You oughta open a ticket with Evolv and send 'em a Device Monitor showing that. Anytime I've seen that, it's a blown battery chip on the board.

Round cells or Lipo? What are the individual cell voltages?

Good to hear you found the issue. I merely copy/pasted retird's request. Thanks are always appreciated, warranted or not. Cheers, good luck with your new JST.

Rasta, overall that looks good. Couple comments. The only ways I can see you getting lava is if it's firing 100 watts straight (non TC) OR the wrong wire profile. If you don't plan on using Nickel or Titanium in the near future, go into profiles and change them to SS. Then go to Material tab, right window, select, then remove from mod. Preheat should be greater than the Power number. Yours show both at 100w. 100watts, is clearly too much to maintain the watts required, so you can drop the Power to 50w, leaving preheat at 100 if you wish (if you liked that ramp up) You can tweak any of those 5 values to your desire. Note that even though we said 100w, your temp was ~150c. Always remember to upload settings to Device after you make changes in escribe Under File -> Save As you can save a backup of all your settings.

As far as wire, pretty much your standard TC wires. SS316L, 430, SS Notch coils, Ni200, Ti01. Both spaced and contact. Used to be dual coils, round or claptons. Now only dedicated single coil atty's. My Kayfun 5 has a single 24 or 26/36 clapton requires about 35 watts to maintain temp. Most of the others are 2x28/40 SS fused, trying to hit .25-.45 ohms. Spaced or contact depends on the build deck. Glad to hear it's working for you. If you want a quicker or slower ramp up, watch that red line in Device Monitor. and adjust those preheat, punch, time.

Yo Rasta, I wrote you a book over there.

Quickly read that DW, looks like a solid option. I have stayed at Windows 7 on a VM.

Or ya can send me a printscreen of profile 2, and device monitor when you're all set to fire.

Check your watts material in the right hand window. Make sure 'temperature sensing' is not selected below it, just above the graph. Set a profile, I usually set Profile 1 back to your watts material Go to Profile 2. Put Power at 100 watts, temp of your choice (150C) is fine. Click on temperature dominant. Do not lock resistance. Leave the other defaults for now alone. Near top of screen -> Upload settings to device (always gotta do this) Atty should be at room temperature, wicked and ready to go. Device Monitor. Bottom left side should say Normal or charging. Over to the right it should say Profile. Click on that, change it to Profile 2 Put mod down on table. Device Monitor, far right, see Puffs, click and set to 3 seconds. Your mod will fire, and no lava for you. Post printscreen like the second one you did before.

On your 'material' tab, left side, see the one called 'watts', click to highlight, then that right arrow -> in between the two windows to put it back on your mod. You should still have SS316 in the right window. If not, do the same thing as before for 'watts'

If you don't connect a wire capable of TC, it will fire at the wattage selected. If you do connect a wire capable of TC, it will fire using the material profile selected, in the screenshot 'ni200'. So you're vaping kanthal @ 37.4watts. If you're gonna keep changing things/resetting things I'm not asking you to do, I'll go cut the lawn.

For not understanding, you done great. Can you do a Printscreen of 'Profile 1', please. And tell me what kind of batteries you're using? At a bare minimum, on the 'mod' tab, double the value for Wh's.

Escribe - Material tab. Highlight the wire you chose on the right hand side. Look down at graph/line. Tell me what values do you see at the highest setting? Follow my instructions here and do a Printscreen exactly like he did.

The latest firmware and escribe is found here: Go to the 'material' tab to see what wire types are available, and on your mod. Your RED comment works in newer versions. Latest tells us nothing, but you can see it in the bottom right hand corner of Device Monitor.

Happy you got it sorted. Now everything connects again?

For 2 battery operation, the last time I checked, the Triade didn't come with a separate battery door. Yes, you can turn the battery icon display off. Theme tab in escribe. For an accurate battery icon you'd need 2 sets of the same battery, and set the battery parameters in the mod tab. I'd suggest you're best option is anything on the Mooch approved list. Solid review by Zophie, and you should follow her advice about djlsb vapes, and watch his escribe videos before configuring.

Now I'll just ramble for a bit. I don't know if you're concerned you're getting close to the 600F mark. IMHO it's just an artificial safety constraint set by Evolv. I mainly vape in the 390-440F range. Just the heat in my lungs. Is that a single 24/36 or more for your 2 coils? I was gonna run your build in steam-engine for an idea of your heat flux. TC is core wire/material dependant only. Not gauge, wraps, or diameter. It's all about the TCR/TFR. Simplest explanation for TC .... You're now vaping at a set resistance.

Yeah, perfect. Notice that green line shows it's about 55 watts to maintain that beautiful solid 500F. That number (55 watts) will change if you do a real not simulated puff. Can you do a real one, this time increase the temp to 550F, upload to mod. Another printscreen, just like this. OR, if you just like that 85 watts but with the benefit of TC (dry hit protection) and really want that 85 watts, there's 1 last/more thing.

Sweet, so now if your're in TC, fire up Device Monitor, and with the following clicked on the left hand side (while firing). You should notice your initial preheat spike, then the wattage required to maintain your 500F. If you post a printscreen of the entire screen while firing, I'll see what it'll take to get your watts up.