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Everything posted by dwcraig1
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While I don't know just how liquid got inside of the screen I consider this to be the way, liquid was present along the edge of the screen. The screen was warm, as the screen cooled the liquid was drawn inside.
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3 * Sony vtc6 murata csv file for triade 250c
dwcraig1 replied to knikol's topic in Batteries and Charging
Having the correct battery curve or not has nothing to do with operation on the device. The proper CSV file only serves to make your battery gauge accurate. -
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Are you using a SS316/316L Temp profile with replay? If so try the wattage profile.
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There are many themes available for download on this site authored by some pretty sharp folks,
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You might try locking the ohms. It only locks the cold ohms. I doubt that I have ever done it myself, it will maybe let it work properly for now. Well almost properly, I consider locking the ohms kind of a work around and not solving the actual problem. You should be able to do that without a computer depending on the theme.
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Most likely there is some resistance change going on that shouldn't be. Could be loose post screws in atty, bad connection between the 510's . You said dry hits, would burnt hits be a better description? It's hitting much harder right? Take note as to whether you cold ohms is changing, Of coarse coil must have cooled to compare.
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Using Device Monitor in EScribe will show quite a bit of information. Check the boxes for cold ohms, live ohms and power and post some screen shots of this happening. The Snippet Tool in Windows works well for capture. An example here, not replay but still good example.
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Did you buy it directly from the Philippines? VA only services the ones they sell. If bought from a vape shop you have to go through them. You need to pursue Evolv, it's the best way.
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I asked before if you tried another battery, I figure that you did but if not try that.
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I was really hoping that was going to fix it. No I don't see anything. Try to get back with Evolv, I would expect they will let you send the mod in for board replacement or repair. If they do they will pay return shipping. They generally get the work out the same day it arrives. Refer to these posts.
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Well it's nice to have the cover but if you break the cover it won't matter much. Just make sure that you only have a hold of the cover.
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Well then the only thing I can say is that end of the cover needs to come out first. The cover is not glued, well at least not on mine, it is just pressed in tightly. I was able to get my finger nail into the center and ran the edge of a credit card down to the bottom but the card wasn't strong enough to pry it out. Care must be taken to not hit the components on the board as they could get knocked off.
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So if you open yours I'll bet tightening the board screws will fix it for you.
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I have always wanted to see how VA wired it. I tried to remove the cover over the board but gave up. The cover is just press fitted in the case. I fashioned a tool from an o-ring pick and got the hooked end inside the little opening and pulled, the cover came right out. Note the black wire, it goes from B- to a spot on the case right under the board. How they attached it I'm not sure, that's copper to aluminum so maybe they glued it.(?) The 3 screws holding the board into the case are able to provide the necessary ground for both the board and 510 socket. All 3 screws on mine were a little on the loose side. I would guess that your problem is with the ground and not the positive.
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So I hooked up my DNA75 VA Spade to Escribe and started loosening the battery cap, here is the result in Device Monitor. This is what a bad connection between board and battery looks like. In this case the bad connection was between the battery and battery cap. But there are other places that could be problematic. Very possibly the 3 screws that hold the board to the case provide the ground for both the board and 510. Or a bad solder joint on the positive lead or contact. As I said I couldn't figure how to take mine apart, I wanted to see how they did the B- on the board. They could have used a wire to a stud in the case, I don't know.
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I went and looked at a review of your mod. It appears to have the same battery cap as mine. On mine the threads on the cap and the threads in the mod need cleaned quite often. Have you done that? Alcohol works good. Also maybe try a different battery if you haven't already.
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Most likely they will let you send the whole mod. I have a Va Spade DNA75C 21700, looking at it I can't see how to get it apart.
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There was a fellow not too long ago that posted a very similar looking picture. It turned out to be a bad board, Try contacting Evolv here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1
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So if it was mine and if everything checked out OK I would install the stock Evolv theme and if problem was still present I would open a ticket with Evolv. https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1
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I have one mod with a VT V-2 smooth black, it works very well.
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To check whether locked or unlocked use EScribe to verify, make sure to choose the Profile that you are using. If you make a change on the mod via theme be sure to hit the "Connect and Downlod Settings" to see any changes. The lock generally shows slightly open when unlocked but may be hard to see. This varies with different themes. Constantly asking if new coil is normally an indication that the resistance has greatly changed. Use Atomizer Analyzer to determine the stability of your 510 connection, it s should be making connection long before it bottoms out. If it makes connection with the last 1/8 turn then you most likely found the problem. Did the firmware update accomplish anything? Locking should not be necessary under normal conditions.
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Welcome. Since it was a one time thing I would't worry about it too much but would certainly keep an eye on it
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I almost mentioned about not playing well with USB 3.0
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Perhaps try a different USB port, preferably one on the back of computer. (If desktop)