dwcraig1

That is great to hear. Can you give some more details about how you got it fixed? Isso é ótimo de ouvir. Você pode dar mais detalhes sobre como corrigi-lo?

Here is a link to a video showing screen replacement on a Lostvape Triade DNA200, your procedure is almost identical. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgmEWZsECU0 The screen can be found at these places: https://www.modmaker.co.uk/Evolv-DNA-75C-250C-Replacement-Screen https://www.protovapor.com/product/replacement-dna-screen/ https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna250color As far as having the repair done for you, try these places: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1 https://support.svsupport.co.uk/

I'm not sure that I can recall a DNA board ever reading under, over yes for various reasons. I'm under the impression that as soon as you hit the fire button it instantly hits the temp limit and doesn't fire, is that correct?

Strangely enough I'm not using a DNA mod here at work otherwise I would get the modified CSV that I use for 316L from it and upload it here. It's temp is not too accurate but still offers some level of dry hit protection. When I get home in a couple of hours I'll post it via PM to you.

I went back and read your initial post to see just what wire you are using, I see it is 316L. To use that wire and to have it work correctly is a challenge. I honestly don't see why folks seem to think it's good stuff. Try this, go to Steamengine and get the CSV for SS430, the temp in EScribe will be way low and not close to accurate. Keep your preheat and wattage to something that's reasonable and just see if that works OK. I use 316 on rare occasions only when I'm up for a good challange. My advise would be to start out doing TC with a wire that's easier to get working right, SS430, NiFe 48 or NiFe30. Nickel 200 works great temp wise but it's too soft for me, I use SS430 almost always.

I have experienced somewhat similar situations long ago when firing a new cartomizer or drop in coil head for the first time. For example a 1.5 ohm carto would read 3 ohm till fired then after that it would read close to 1.5. This I contributed to the press fit connections within the carto. So in your case you need to make sure this problem isn't related at post to wire connections if you hadn't already double checked that. Any atty with a spring loaded positive pin is also troublesome when used with a spring loaded 510. BTW, I wrote this prior to your last post but am posting it anyway.

Just to be clear here by doing the same thing mean that the resistance is dropping considerably lower than the initial reading?

I'm thinking that your saying that the batteries disconnect. I'd be looking at the small spring loaded contact that the battery door connects with when the door is closed. That Is what I'd be looking at first.

This forum is for discussion and support of mods powered by Evolv DNA boards only. You will be better served posting on a general ecig forum. Try here: http://analogboxmods.ca/index.php?route=information/contact

Let us know how you make out.

The device does appear to be locked. Does it work if you unlock it? Default unlock is 5 clicks of the fire button, if that has been changed EScribe will show what it was changed to and/or you can change it to whatever you want.

I'm going to take a guess, judging by the single dot at the bottom of the screen maybe is means "Locked". Escribe/Theme designer might offer some insight to it. Vou adivinhar, a julgar pelo único ponto na parte inferior da tela, talvez signifique "Bloqueado". O designer Escriba / Tema pode oferecer algumas dicas.

Make sure that the box is checked in the profile that you are using. If you are still not getting it to Replay check to see if you are using the International firmware and if not try that.

So how much lower does the resistance change after it's been sitting? A little, a lot?

I was just editing my post to mention the cable.

The voltage of your power source (computer USB) looks kind of low. You might try another computer, cable or power supply

I see nothing on their site with a DNA60. https://rusmods.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=57

A DNA60 with USB charge/data port connects to EScribe. The version of EScribe for your DNA75C is certainly capable of connecting to all of the EScribe capable boards. I'm not a Mac user so I don't know the specifics but when I first connect a DNA device Windows detects it and automatically installs the drivers for it. There are quite a few DNA60 mods coming out that have no USB port but to have a USB that is charge only well I can't image that. Does the manufacturer claim it is upgrade-able? Perhaps one of our Mac users can offer more insight.

Well one way would be to number the cells 1 ,2,& 3 with a marker and change their position in the sled and then look at Device Monitor and see where they moved to. Note the voltages of the cells first so you can discern which is which. Other wise you would have to check how the sled is wired to the balance tap on the bottom of the board....too hard.

After looking at your Device Monitor snippet I see now what I missed earlier. Your cell #1 is 4..2 volts, that is full charge. Therefore the charger is balancing the cells and that's a bit of a slow process. After you bring all 3 up to 4.2 volts I suspect your problem will be gone. Let us know how it goes.

Device monitor shows that it is charging at a rate of 0.28 amps so it is charging but slowly. Try a different cable and\or power source. Check to see if USB port on the mod has dirt/lint in it. Your cells are slightly unbalanced but I don't think it's affecting charging but perhaps it is. Do you have access to a stand alone charger? If so charge them that way and get them balanced and see if that helps. Charging with data connection max is 1 amp and without data connection max is 2 amp.

Could you post a snippet of Device Monitor showing the cell voltages? Like this one>

That is correct. I have a DNA75C Spade and it has the highest mod resistance by far, works well though. It's somethog like 0.02 ohm where all my others are around 0.004.

Do your board and room temps look reasonable?