Wayneo

IIRC, the 2xx series boards come default configured for 3 batteries. I'd go into Escribe, mod tab, and check/change it to 2 cells.

Remember to post your results, either way.

Welcome to the forum Somehow I can't believe this is a software issue. A BF environment can be a relatively hostile environment for any mod, even with a conformal (protection against moisture) coating like these have. Other users have blown out their mods and expelled leaked ejuice, and after cleaning all exposed areas (Isopropyl alcohol), found that their mods worked fine again. YMMV. Yes, it's possible to do a hard reset, but I wouldn't do that at all

OK, Have you upgraded your firmware to the latest version? 2.0 SP8 or 9 I believe? Daniel's a great reviewer, and some of his comments are time and firmware specific. Any reason why you're using his Ni200 profile? Any coil, with dry wicks in TC (like your 525F) can burn, because it's past the burn point of cotton. It's Nickel ........ ohms out low ......... doesn't require much power to reach and maintain temp. I have the same curiosity as you. Can you do a printscreen of device monitor with the following ticked. Power set, power, temp set, temp, cold ohm, live ohms.

Tab - meaning external ohm reader, build deck? If yes, it has no clue what material (wire) you're using, and just firing at its setting. Same thing for your mod if it doesn't know it's nickel. I've built up to .3Ω Nickel with no issues at my regular 390-420°F. (no longer my regular wire, but not due to it being Nickel. I mainly now use it for Cotton burn tests) I'd check for a solid connection and build using Atomizer Analyzer, BF's are not a friendly environment. And welcome

It is a thing. Found in 1 of the 2 pinned posts right here in this area in the 1st post. I can't go hunting for a link mid reply. My suggestions are; Watch a video or two by djlsb vapes Make sure your wire (material) matches the profile you're in .... Not enough detail really, where the correct answer could just be check all the connections of your build are tight. And welcome

IMHO, posting your questions in the appropriate area would be best, The color forum for 75C's. If your questions are about your Triade specifically on a Mac, you must download escribe v2 for Mac. The search feature works great. DJLSB Vapes and PBusardo have both put out good escribe tutorial videos. And Welcome

Thank you, it's fixed, and I won't waste your time or mine by loading the first version and looking at the Copyright information. If Evolv loads it on my machine, I consider it part of Mac Escribe. Thank you for working on it. If you look at my printscreens, right beside that long list of backups you can see the 'name' I called the device. That's what should be shown with the backups, not just board type. You want a PM, or general forum posts from now on? At least we got COLOR. <- Christmas theme.

@James Beautiful, I can see my data. Thank you. It was only posted here, because it was sold to Evolv, and no longer Dimension Engineering. Also, we're discussing the Mac Escribe suite. Any work on the Mod Res functional issue? Any thoughts on waiting for the full USB enumeration functional issue?

Another functional issue. While it's usually crickets over there, I actually use ecigstats as I only have/use DNA devices, to see if my 'puffs' increase when I lower nic levels in my eliquid. So I wondered over there earlier, to see that a new version had been released. 2 actually within the last month. Excellent. Off to the 'My Usage' section. It's completely blank, whereas before, it was completely filled (excellently). Tried Chrome, Firefox, Safari, all blank. So I go look at the version number I'm running (remember the 2 updates image). Well, nope, only Version 1.0, actually every program for 2.0 SP9 Intl show a version number of 1.0. I think this fully qualifies as a functional issue.

My Demon Killer Notch coils would work in TC, but I had to turn the temperature up way high like ~150°F for it to feel like my usual temp, so instead of the displaying 420°F it would show 570°F. So I loaded up like 6 new wire profiles (TCR values) each increasing on the mod. Couple hits, next profile, couple hits, next profile, till I felt I was in the right ballpark, where the temp in my mouth matched the display. (Funnily enough it was @retird who worked with me and said I wasn't crazy, and I coined it some wrong Nursery rhyme (Little red riding hood) method) Followed up with a Cotton burn test, now that I was in the right zone, for final tweaking. If you go watch that video again, you only took away what you wanted to hear. He said for accuracy don't lock. If you want consistency because you're getting blown out ... lock. I'd say fix your build. He also mentioned 'refinement'. I only needed to lock for 1 atty ever.

Hey @VapingBad, I noticed while testing out v2 SP9 Intl on my regular 75, I had entered a 1v for CSC, and after saying OK to the warning, it changed the value to 2.0V loaded to the device. No other boards tested. In my old tired mind, the spec on the VTC6 had a fully discharged value of 2.0v or 2.3v value in their datasheet (but we all know there's not much energy down there).

Hey Ronin, we were all new once, no worries "I assumed that I had to change the wattage from using a round wire to a fused clapton" <- Typically yes. I have used that "Demon Killer" and had to fudge my TCR in order for it to work for their "316 Notch" coils. "I tried another wire with 2 cores, at first the vape was hot yet the temperature doesn't reach the set temperature. I removed the wick and I pulsed it red to check. Then rewicked it." <- We'd need more details on that 2 core wire. With SS you only need a dull glow to Red. I glow all my SS to Red from 10-25watts, spaced, contact, plain, or fused. "I should maybe dry fire the fused claptons?" <- If you mean pulse, I do with every coil, every wire type. "after I had rested the coil for a few minutes and locked the resistance, I also changed the Temperature and the wattage." <- Great Printscreen showing it working again. What wire was that? Single, dual or triple core. For the 2nd time, You only need to lock the resistance if you have a wonky atomizer, or build. By locking the resistance, you defeat/disable 'refinement' which is the Evolv magic sauce. Page 7 of the Datasheet. This is one of the best Temperature guessing boards on the market.

Hey @rONin, couple things fellow vaper. I appreciate your Printscreen's. I can understand that. At this point we're down to your wire in the fused clapton, or your build that's the issue. IF YOU built that clapton with the same wire in your latest Printscreen, it should work as well as the Printscreen with simple wire. I notice you also went and increased the watts in this Printscreen, without telling us of any other changes.

I only have a few RDA's, so I assume the 510 positive pin is one solid structure, making a good connection. Either try that coil on another RDA, or try a different known wire(material) on this RDA.

Unfortunately, no it's not working right. If you look at this graph, that pinkish line, your cold ohms is a solid line (good), but you don't see the live ohms line raising (like you do in the prior .5 printscreen) well a rise of .003 is not enough. Is it at ambient/room temperature? Go use that .5 coil for a bit, and come back to this one. The initial settings looked fine, don't change anything during troubleshooting as it changes your known state.

Remember that your coils need to be as close to identical as possible. I use both contact and spaced fused claptons, but you gotta make sure your connections are tight (not Superman tight) and no hotspots. Overall, I'm team spaced. Enjoy your mod.

It's gotta be a connection issue ........... somewhere. Either in a dirty 510 or connector, or a loose 510 pin, or hotspots in your coil. Can you space (if it's a contact coil) slightly and retry? Even with just a single coil to prove to yourself it works. And don't lock the ohms And welcome

A quicker, easier way would be; Go to "About" Escribe. Click the juice droplet (middle of the logo) 7 times till it flashes. Fire up "Device Monitor" Way down on the left you'll see "Screen disconnects". That value should be zero 0. Welcome Stephan The rubberized casing on my Black SDNA75 is still mint.

While I fully agree with @iAlexander and many of these last 2 points, here are 2 functional points. 1. Change the timing of when the backups are done to after the device has been fully enumerated. As it sits, it's really of no use to a user with multiple boards of the same type. 2. And most importantly, you already know setting an accurate Mod resistance only works for 75 boards.

Don't bother ........ I'll never see it. Have a great day, enjoy your mod.

At least it's only a simple solder job, which is much less time consuming to repair, compared to sending it to the US for service. Looks like the old battery tab connector wire. Glad you found it.

Hey @retird, if it wouldn't be too much of a bother, could you describe how boost works on your 60. Mine has no USB, and I don't want to actually 'fire' with only loose wires. I think @James said it was proportional up to a 60w max. Like from 1-11 is it both wattage and time?

With those varying voltages shown for each cell, could there be eliquid in there? I'd really check/clean all contacts, then open the ticket like @retird suggested.

Will it connect to escribe? If 'yes', can you post a 'printscreen' of 'Device Monitor' And welcome