Wayneo

Yup Yup Yup to ya's. @awsum140 Last week I was gifted 6@30 foot spools of Temco Ti01, and 1 box of NiFe70. This stuff just doesn't have the market, but Gold to me. Ni200 is considered commercially pure @ 99.6% Nickel and was used as the material by Evolv on the DNA40's. Also used by Steam-engine as their reference material. Ti01 is ~99.5%

Much easier for sure. But SS, IMHO has become the defacto standard for many, due to safety fear mongering. I posted a a table below showing composition for each SS

@denniz Just to add slightly .... If you look at the composition off what makes SS304 304, or SS316 316, the specs clearly show both minimums and maximums for each wire type designation. If one batch were to follow all the minimums/maximums/average it will all throw off accurate TCR. Not disagreeing with your 120 ........ just saying. I'm with @awsum140 .... every word.

Enjoy your mod. You're welcome

Efests - rewraps. Running Battery Analyzer on your cells will be accurate for curve and Wh's.

Li Po, if 18650's. I have only heard of 1 person inquiring about LiFePo's. CSC 2.75 or higher, wherever you feel comfortable. Wh Capacity should be written on your cells, or use the built in calculator. Or search for your battery type curve and someone will have stated the watt hours they got/use.

Mod Tab. Battery section. Change cells from 3 to 2. Adjust Watt hours appropriately. For the MOD tab to appear - Options (menu bar) -> User Interface -> Manufacture

I have only used Isopropyl alcohol, vinegar, or windex

I don't own a Therion, but for squonkers there are 2 types of connections. One 510 pin (in the mod) is spring loaded, so various rda's will push on it and make a sealed connection to help prevent leakage. The other you need to adjust the 510 in the mod and rise/lower for each different rda to ensure a sealed connection. Bit of maintenance keeping everything clean is essential. Isopropyl alcohol and QTips are your friend. Compressors work too, but might not totally clean that VG.

If you remove the squonk bottle and the battery is there eliquid inside the box itself?

Good luck. Come back and let us know how it works out, but before sending it in, do a file -> 'save as' to retain a copy of your settings just in case. Post a pic of your mod in the picture thread.

Good, so not mod related. Ask at a local vape shop for modders. The modder should be able to diagnose and repair. Similar to your situation, my 2 thick battery cables are hardwired. When it's time to replace it, I'll decide whether to put a connector in the path by cutting the wires already there. Those are 12awg cables and can't be easily used with an XT30 connector (small)

When you said this. It could be more than just the battery if the connections are solid.

Yeah, so you have a few options. The RC hobby guys are familiar with Lipo's and tight soldering. They might see an issue with the sollder joints/wire. Your battery you can find at hobbyking. You could see if they're willing to to replace it for you, but it's obviously more work than just plugging in 2 connectors. It'll take them more time to clean up what's there, than the new soldering required. It looked to be a tight fit so maybe there was no room for connectors, blah blah blah. For a builder to do it, you could check/ask at your local vape store. Do you remember what the nonsense message was? All I've said was how to replace the battery.

See those thinner wires (Black/white/blue) are they plugged into the board in between the thick red and black coming from the battery? You might be able to lift out the battery carefully which has either been soldered directly to the board or there will be a connector Looking carefully, he appears to have cutoff the connectors and wired directly to the board, due to space.

For TC, the core wire(s) need to be TC capable for it to work ..... with any wrap. I believe you described kanthal cores which will not work.

I believe so as well. Been there done that. LOL. The balance connector is usually a small connector coming from the battery and usually attaches to the board/chip down by the USB port (on the opposite side of the USB plug)

Thanks for that. It's showing every cell is completely dead. 0.00V. Hopefully a new battery would fix that from seeing such low puffs, but even so with my old barely used Lipo's, there was usually a glimmer of a volt in at least 1 cell. I haven't seen a 'some nonsense' error, but the actual wording or screenshot could indicate bigger issues.

Sounds like a LiPO battery. There is now escribe v2 with a native Mac version available. Can you post a full Printscreen (Command Shift 3) of Device Monitor with cells 1-3 ticked

Not directly related to your issue, but here's a proven method to test/set your internal mod resistance. Remember to set it to zero, and upload to your device beforehand. ** giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation **Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFHThenWire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMVTakes a few minutes, and it will be correct for YOUR mod.IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes. Set to new value, upload settings to device.

Could be a combination of many things, but for the resistance to rise, it could be say a hotspot on a coil, or even a coil leg is slightly loose and when the wire it expands slightly, tightening the connection. The other stuff I mentioned was just getting you to a known stable base. I can't agree with this, and realize every manufacturer uses different algorithims to do their TC (how often they read the change in resistance, when/how they calculate if a material is TC capable, etc.). I don't believe any other mfgr does 'refinement'. I wouldn't fiddle with your mod resistance, unless you know how to set it accurately (5 minute job), we're talking down at the thousandth's value. I'm surprised your Koopor reads the same value when both are in straight power mode. Have you have proven a single coil in TC works (the chip itself)? Did you look at Atomizer Analyzer? You might want to lock your resistance Yes, the cold ohm value should be a steady line, and if yours moves that explains why it's no bueno for TC

Thanks for that level of detail. It could be a few things then, but all leaning towards a poor connection .... somewhere. I would check in this order, seeing as you said ALL atty's. Check your ground connection inside the mod. Clean your 510 connector and threading with a Q-Tip. I use IPA or windex. Wouldn't that lead you to believe it's a build issue? I've never built a quad, but all your coils need to be as close to identical as possible. Using Atomizer Analyzer, you can see if your build is stable (it will jump a few thousandth's at a consistent interval as AA applies 1watt). You can also 'set' you resistance there. You might also want to lock your resistance which negates refinement. BTW, have you actually set your Mod resistance?

@Sergey giz_60 alternative mod resistance calculation Read this 1 comment by giz https://goo.gl/m8zrFH Then Wire picture (March 10 post) https://goo.gl/3BSsMV Takes a few minutes, and it will be correct for YOUR mod. IMHO, acceptable values would be in the .002-.009 range. Note the double zeroes.

Welcome. IMHO you're way overthinking things, and TC is actually quite simple to set up and get good results. Material TCR is wire specific and will not change due to ANY coil parameters. The resistance of the coil is ONLY read when you press the fire button. It is a 'live' read while in Power mode. It is a 'refined' (70°F) value while in TC mode when unlocked and does not change on the display while firing. DNA mods only require locking under special conditions. What do you mean?

1200 mAh Lipo. So that's about the equivalent of one and a half, high Mah 18650's. You gotta compare it to that. The only tuning I can think of, would be to run your own battery analyzer (1 hour) and adjust those parameters (Wh's and CSC)