Wayneo

Hey @VapingBad, I noticed while testing out v2 SP9 Intl on my regular 75, I had entered a 1v for CSC, and after saying OK to the warning, it changed the value to 2.0V loaded to the device. No other boards tested. In my old tired mind, the spec on the VTC6 had a fully discharged value of 2.0v or 2.3v value in their datasheet (but we all know there's not much energy down there).

Hey Ronin, we were all new once, no worries "I assumed that I had to change the wattage from using a round wire to a fused clapton" <- Typically yes. I have used that "Demon Killer" and had to fudge my TCR in order for it to work for their "316 Notch" coils. "I tried another wire with 2 cores, at first the vape was hot yet the temperature doesn't reach the set temperature. I removed the wick and I pulsed it red to check. Then rewicked it." <- We'd need more details on that 2 core wire. With SS you only need a dull glow to Red. I glow all my SS to Red from 10-25watts, spaced, contact, plain, or fused. "I should maybe dry fire the fused claptons?" <- If you mean pulse, I do with every coil, every wire type. "after I had rested the coil for a few minutes and locked the resistance, I also changed the Temperature and the wattage." <- Great Printscreen showing it working again. What wire was that? Single, dual or triple core. For the 2nd time, You only need to lock the resistance if you have a wonky atomizer, or build. By locking the resistance, you defeat/disable 'refinement' which is the Evolv magic sauce. Page 7 of the Datasheet. This is one of the best Temperature guessing boards on the market.

Hey @rONin, couple things fellow vaper. I appreciate your Printscreen's. I can understand that. At this point we're down to your wire in the fused clapton, or your build that's the issue. IF YOU built that clapton with the same wire in your latest Printscreen, it should work as well as the Printscreen with simple wire. I notice you also went and increased the watts in this Printscreen, without telling us of any other changes.

I only have a few RDA's, so I assume the 510 positive pin is one solid structure, making a good connection. Either try that coil on another RDA, or try a different known wire(material) on this RDA.

Unfortunately, no it's not working right. If you look at this graph, that pinkish line, your cold ohms is a solid line (good), but you don't see the live ohms line raising (like you do in the prior .5 printscreen) well a rise of .003 is not enough. Is it at ambient/room temperature? Go use that .5 coil for a bit, and come back to this one. The initial settings looked fine, don't change anything during troubleshooting as it changes your known state.

Remember that your coils need to be as close to identical as possible. I use both contact and spaced fused claptons, but you gotta make sure your connections are tight (not Superman tight) and no hotspots. Overall, I'm team spaced. Enjoy your mod.

It's gotta be a connection issue ........... somewhere. Either in a dirty 510 or connector, or a loose 510 pin, or hotspots in your coil. Can you space (if it's a contact coil) slightly and retry? Even with just a single coil to prove to yourself it works. And don't lock the ohms And welcome

A quicker, easier way would be; Go to "About" Escribe. Click the juice droplet (middle of the logo) 7 times till it flashes. Fire up "Device Monitor" Way down on the left you'll see "Screen disconnects". That value should be zero 0. Welcome Stephan The rubberized casing on my Black SDNA75 is still mint.

While I fully agree with @iAlexander and many of these last 2 points, here are 2 functional points. 1. Change the timing of when the backups are done to after the device has been fully enumerated. As it sits, it's really of no use to a user with multiple boards of the same type. 2. And most importantly, you already know setting an accurate Mod resistance only works for 75 boards.

Don't bother ........ I'll never see it. Have a great day, enjoy your mod.

At least it's only a simple solder job, which is much less time consuming to repair, compared to sending it to the US for service. Looks like the old battery tab connector wire. Glad you found it.

Hey @retird, if it wouldn't be too much of a bother, could you describe how boost works on your 60. Mine has no USB, and I don't want to actually 'fire' with only loose wires. I think @James said it was proportional up to a 60w max. Like from 1-11 is it both wattage and time?

With those varying voltages shown for each cell, could there be eliquid in there? I'd really check/clean all contacts, then open the ticket like @retird suggested.

Will it connect to escribe? If 'yes', can you post a 'printscreen' of 'Device Monitor' And welcome

Welcome No comments on such things as using the spacebar or the return/enter key for accepting a dialog box, or copy/paste in an editable field. IMHO, there are bigger fish to fry.

And if that doesn't solve your issue, read this one post. Link in @retird's signature And welcome

Yo @mactavish, the url you show (that works), is not the same as his on his mobile. His 'fix' I'd betcha is written on his image posted.

2 questions What were you doing just before it stopped working? Did you do/try a 'Restore Defaults'? Welcome

So are those your actual values you are using?

Yes, just stays there as 0.005, no more ?. I noticed the change (stopped working) with my 200's from 1.2 SP3, FDA deadline. IIRC, you limited the max peak and sustained current at 24A, and identified as '-Other changes'. No comments about anything else?

You are correct, sir! But nowhere in this post was the 6.0 volt limitation ever mentioned. Perhaps it was meant for a different thread? And welcome

@James, with the solid copper 510 tool, with multiple 200's using the last 2016/02/23 firmware and escribe 1.0.39 or 42, I was getting down to .002 on a couple mods. Later firmware and escribe was down to ~.006 before a ? mark. The last i checked (if you can tell I'm a mod res natzi) it would get to .005 and stay there, but testing on the prior versions would still get my 11 DNAs .002 and higher. The 75 non color (when tested) managed to show lower values. You said "Always make sure the Mod Resistance you have is conservative", they (users and quality manufacturer's) will think .005 is accurate. I don't own a C version. On my BilletBox (only DNA60) it was set at .0004, and no way to validate that or thermal characteristics (even though I only need board temp to room temp offset) as there's no USB port. Telling me another way is more useful, than an easy 'just use the defaults'. I had a DNA250 custom built, with the shortest, biggest, fattest wires possible for every connection with a shitty Varitube v2 (which is now being replaced) and got .003 using an alternative method. I'm no Electrical Engineer, but if a '0' value is the default, couldn't you put Mod Res calculation on the Manufacturer Mod tab, and perhaps disable the fire button, allowing us to use the solid copper tool or something? A simple yes or no would suffice. A nice feature would also allow one to Save "Mod" parameters, allowing us to load default settings across the slew, then load individual Mod parameters. Mod Res setting IMHO is a 'premium feature' parameter from the Temperature vaping pioneer company.

They're the experts, take them up on their replacement offer. A CSV will definitely not fix a battery drain issue.

True words. Even here with DNA devices, knowing that we can no longer get an accurate Mod Resistance value from Atomizer Analyzer as we know it. But we do get COLOR screens ........yes!!!.

I can't see it. Maybe as a niche product. There's only 1 standard really, being the 510 connector. From that we get the resistance of any coil/atty combination. I think it's gotta be done through software, a la Hohmtech. Just my thoughts. Think of interchangeability consumer choice.