VapingBad

You really need more than one 18650 at that level, I would get a 167 or 250, not in colour yet though and no date I am aware of.

I would check that each cell is charging evenly, look at the cell voltages in EScribe or put them as the optional fields on the charge screen. It sounds like it is spending a lot of time balance charging, also worth checking the white JST balance connector is clean and tight.

I haven't, sorry, have a stock of good 510s and only made 1 mod in the last year as life gets in the way. There are a good few UK moders on here, but I hesitate to name them as I will forget that I saw of them here. The MM 510 seems to be going down well though.

I was just giving min ratings to be able to give enough current and not saying they were ideal, not built a 1S LiPo mod. 18650s tend to hold more power for their size, LiPos tend to have far more grunt and more choice of size and shape. The grunt (low voltage sag) of a decent LiPo means you should get more runtime per mAh than 18650. I love my LiPo 200 and 250s, but have 18650 mods I love, but only for lower power really because of the size of 2 and 3 cell 18650 mods. Both are great options.

Sure as long as if it is a LiPo it is 1S2P (1 series, 2 parallel) a reasonable option, just not 2S (7.4 V)

With mod res lower is always safer, safer is the wrong word it's not unsafe, it just dials in more accuracy for high power and low res and doesn't affect the safety features and go to high and you could start triggering the safety features. It could be an internal connection issue even things like a dirty battery connection, I would clean, tighten and then try a simple coil..

Cool way to stop people stealing your mod

No, all Evolv products have always been real-time VW, IE they don't just measure res before you fire and set the voltage they constantly regulate the wattage. It has been fundamental to their design since day one, they could probably do it with custom fw, but I can't see it happening as wattage is a far better thing to regulate for pretty much everyone.

Well a 1S (3.7 V) with enough constant discharge rate, it's normally given in C and you multiply the capacity (mAh) by C/1000 to get the current rating, use constant not pulse. You want > 28 A, add some head room say 35 A, so for 25 C rating you would want at least 1,400mAh, at 35 C 1,000 mAh or more. Always get a good branded from reputable reseller

Dropping out of temp protection is most likley a connection issue, locking the resistance at the wrong value, too low power level or a coil issue like hot spots or shorting between loops when it heats. The board initially fires with no preheat and checks that the resistance changes by enough in the first 2 seconds (equivalent of 185 F change IIRC) and if it doesn't it treats it as non temp sensing wire. I doubt mod res set at 0.004 would cause it to drop out of temp protection, it is a realistic figure most of my mods are close to that.

If you are using Kanthal or Nichrome it will just go into power mode automatically, but on the mod raising the temp above the maximum will disable temp protection and you cha turn it off by selecting a non temp wire for a profile in EScribe.

Last 75 I did (don't have the time these days) I used a battery tray from an SMY something that died an was donated to me at the LDN vape meet by ghostryder72, but in general separating the spring from the contact and with a good spring you only need one end sprung. Sorry very late at night her, there are lots of ways, just contact as close to the battery and not through a spring, 510s had the same evolution.a while back,

That looked familiar until I saw 20700, very nice, but personally I would avoid the flat spring battery contacts, great for flashlights...

Those batteries will have a fair amount of sag under load causing it to hit the low cut off, I would change the low cut off to 2.75 V and then lower you Wh setting in proportion to the amount % reported when you get the warning.

Check the fuse, it's behind the USB socket, other side of the board.

The battery sag is causing it to hit the low cut off, it is dependent on the power you are vaping at so there is no exact one size fits all, but if you are only getting to 72% of 33.3 Wh try changing it to 24 Wh.

That's right, you don't need a jumper on the DNA board, but I prefer 2 wires to spread the current and lower the resistance.

The battery voltage is sagging too far under load, first tine to try is cleaning and tightening the connections, it could be a weak battery so if it persists try a friend's battery in it if possible.

It is either a connection issue (board, 510 or battery) or the quality and contact area of the battery contact spring, or less likley a knackered battery.

You just need to add a resistor on one line, IIRC 10k, the spec sheet has the details and IIRC @ChunkyButt200 has a thread doing so to a VS rDNA40 (now rDNA60).

Sounds like a faulty board, try applying service pack through escribe then looking at the board temp in device monitor, if the board temp is way out it is likely the thermistor (temp sensor) on the board that has gone and the board would need replacing.

You can display the voltage and most themes have it on a diagnostic screen.

You know I love you Willy, but most of the world work in mm, so .020 without the unit specified , which we would assume is mm, seems a hell of a lot smaller than the 0.508 mm it is, though both very small.

Sounds like the fire button it touching, maybe even crushing, the screen cable. If it is out of warranty or you want to fix yourself you may be able to bend the cable to not touch the button or put a bit of plastic between them. I use the clear plastic used for blister packs that so many things come in these days, cheap, plentiful and easy to cut. You could put EScribe in to debug mod by opening the Help-About page and clicking the Evolv logo 7 times, then you will see a Screen Disconnects value in Device monitor, if that's much great er than 0 this is your issue.