VapingBad

Sorry you are getting that, but we (non Evolv forum staff) don't have any control of it, there are not settings we have access to to increase your permissions etc, I believe there is a delay between getting your account activated (when you can post) and the download permissions being applied by the forum software.

They have not been published as yet I have a friend who has been asking for them for ages, but I think you could mod the 3D files for the other charge board quite easily.

As I said I am not exactly sure what your issue is, but if it is that the store you bought it from gave incorrect specs then that is misselling IMO and you beef is with them, by all means alert other people here if that is the case, but Evolv have no power to do anything about that. I mean they tell the manufactures the specs, who tell the distributors, who tell the stores and I have seen wrong spec I guess from lazy cut and paste product listing, and similar errors in video reviews. So they have no contractual or other relationship with the stores or reviewers to tell them to do this or that, they do publish the data sheets and provide this forum, I know few people will think to come here before buying, but... I would be pissed if I bought something that didn't do what I thought, but I honestly don't think it was Evolv's fault. ^If that is in fact your issue.^

Sorry you have lost me completely, it shows live watts. Like my point above I have had a few other mods on the oscilloscope that just don't, the DNAs may not do the thing you want (not sure I understand what that is though), but they are honest.

You are missing that all Evolv boards, DNAs, Kick and Darwin are true power regulated mods that don't measure the resistance, then set the volts to provide the watts like many sudo VW boards, which are really VV under the surface. They work in watts, they regulate in watts and since the introduction of VW that is what most vapers want to know because they have used more than one resistance in the last 7 years, it is a far more useful number than V. If you are shooting for a particular V number you only have to work out the volts once, or just use watts like most people.

It is buyers choice, Evolv publish the specs and anyone wanting 166.66 W would be better advised to to get a 3 cell 250, IMO the 2 cell variants are for people at the lower end of the power scale who still want all the features, and vaping at say 75 W they can get to 0.5 ohm which is not low res by today's standards. Being step-down only brings a lot of advantages and changing that would be a completely different product line from the 200 & 250. My ADV is 0.05 ohm so I love that they built them like this, and ohms have been coming down over the last couple of years so I bet it suits more people than it encumbers.

Result

It is not sensing the resistance rise enough in the first 2 seconds, it wast to see a 185 F raise in temp or it will drop out of temp protection, well partially drop out it still enforces some limits. It could be a connection issue clean and tighten, disconnect the atty, press fire to clear the atty memory, it could also be an internal wiring or grounding issue. You mod res seems reasonable.

Yeah, all the ss I have tried has been far less springy than Ti, both are good, IMO SS is easiest to work with for single strand (almost perfect) and Ni for twisted (low res need thin so wire won't suit everyone). But when you compare ss and Ti twisted they are both too springy, for me least, but IMO ss is much easier than Ti twisted, but Ni is a breeze.

It is an inductor that I believe is for the voltage conversion for the charging circuit, you will need to exchange the board, open a ticket with Evolv they will probably replace the board for free, you pay the postage to send it to them.

I don't think the preheat would affect that, it just gives you faster heat up, more like smoking. Try twisted with the thinner 2x2 Ti is nice IMO, twist 2 strands one direction then take 2 lengths of that and twist in the other direction, I use 32 AWG for that, it makes a very springy coil, but a lovely vape. Oh and it need good terminals you can crank down.

Probably the best thing to do is spread the heat, increase the contact area between the coil and wick, consider 8 wraps at 450 F will produce more vapour than 5 wrap, or you can increase the gauge or use twisted. Also if the liquid is struggling to wick to the centre it would be dryer. The wire will heat from the centre out, anyway, try a big single loop, also the heat will sink into the atty at the terminals so it will never be completely even. It is nothing to do with preheat in my experience, I would set that to 150% to 200% of your preferred wattage, punch high, I like 11, but just no need to go below 7 unless you like a gradual warm up IMO.

I don't know of any videos, but not charging the to 100% is more effective at prolonging their life than not vaping them low, DNA do this with the Max Recharges setting (charges to 4.1 V) unfortunately I am not aware of any chargers that so. Google Battery University they have lots of info on charging and battery life. Since they are in series with individual cell monitoring paring older batteries from the same batch is probably fine, if they end up at the same voltage before you charge they are still very close, you can also check they sag about the same in Device Monitor.

It is not necessary to have a battery curve, filling in the capacity Wh is easy, but all they do is make the battery metre more accurate they don't affect the vape. You charger will stop charging when they are full, but it is a good habit to take the batteries out just in case there is a fault, it's a minute chance though and I'm sure thousands of people just leave their batteries in.

I just got one and the defaults are working fine for me, 14 Wh and default battery curve, though I changed the low cut off from 3.09 V to 2.8 V, using oldish 25Rs.

DNAs will not be like a mech with SS, because they do proper power regulation and not just set the voltage from reading the watts once. They will not have the slight reduction of power fixed voltage devices have with a wire that increases resistance with temp.

When you drop those the top and bottom can bend causing the batteries not to fit well, check the gap between the battery cover and body are even at the top and bottom, if not just take the batteries out, put on a firm surface and push back with the palm of your hand.

If you want to be less aggressive lower the watts, unless you know a way around the first law of thermodynamics or get better batteries that's all that is possible, if I understand your question and I'm not positive I do.

I think what you are asking is can you set it to have step-up as well, no the physical circuit is step-down only and that allows it to operate with 97% efficiency. It is a bit like asking if you can change your motorbike to a car by changing a setting, the hardware is too differient.

Leaving them at the defaults will put it functionality on a par with other boards using swappable batteries, setting will get you a little more accuracy than other mods, not setting will cost you zero compared to other boards it all still works fine. The curve is just to better match different models of battery, none should be far from the default curve and they would vary with the age of the battery and load. Batteries can be tracked more accurately if they are fixed, but with removable batteries the board has no heuristics and has to go by a voltage to percent map, that's just life.

You really don't "need" to set up the battery curve or capacity, they don't affect anything other than the battery metre. It is one of those untrue truisms that pervades the vapesphere that these needs to be done, I have been using the default curve in my rolo for well over a year now. Same goes for case analyser and mod resistance they are beneficial, but not essential and in an ideal world they would be set correctly by the manufacture. Though if you are at ultra low res of very high power I do suggest you set your mod res.

Welcome aboard!

You may to lower your soft cell cut off for 18650s to 2.75 V, it's the voltage under load so don't worry that it will over-discharge them it won't.

Running the test doesn't take that long, or try 22.2 and if you are getting battery warnings before the capacity is showing empty or near empty go to the lower vales. It could be one set were older that the other or the wattages chosen for the test were quite different.