VapingBad

Nice job, thanks for sharing!

Links to fw (Escribe) in my footer, just go to Tools - Apply Service Pack... and click through warnings about not sensing the device. Yeah they have renamed fw to service pack, confusing yes, but more accurate IMO.

Sorry, wish we (staff) could fix this issue, but there are no settings we can access it.

The 250s need battery power to connect IIRC, sorry I have not got a board handy to double check, but you can power via crocodile clips to check as it is only tiny current when not vaping. Edit: Just took the batteries out of my VTC167 and it will connect, I have a feeling older fw will not, but that may be from the beta group, try powering the board, different cables and rebooting your PC. Otherwise the boards may have issues, but that is extremely like for 2 boards.

Sorry guys there seems to be a delay between accounts being activated and approved and getting download permissions, there aren't any settings we have access to that change that, but you should be able to access them by now.

Does the computer make a noise when you connect them and do they show up in Windows Device Manager under Ports (COM & LPT)?

You need Options - UI Settings - Manufacture selected.

[Alt]+[PtrSc] just grabs the active window BTW.

1. Yes, as long as the watts are high enough for you setting the wire type and temp will get you going. 2. Wire/material profiles are for the metal type regardless of wire size, I use the onboard SS316 profile for SS316L myself. 3. .ecifprofile files are all the settings on one profile tab. 4. Yes preheat will cut off when the time is up or you get close to temp, that's the punch setting IIRC 1 = within 165 F and 11 = within 10 F of the main temperature. 150% - 200% of the main power setting is a sensible range. 5. Using temp mode I would set the power just a bit higher than you like in case you select the wrong profile or have a connection issue, but they still work just as well with the watts maxed letting the temp setting control the power.

You can ask here https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna75 12 USD + 2 USD shipping worldwide

Looks like you have it set to max-recharges on the mod tab in EScribe, that limits the charge to 4.1 V which will approximately double the life of your batteries. Choose max-puffs to charge to 4.2 V, you will need the options - UI set to advanced to see the mod tab.

It's stopped charging and that current is just being used by the board and screen, IIRC the lowest charge current is around 20 or 30 mA, you see it drop and the battery icon change (no lightning bolt).

It won't do any harm taking them off a little early, the current will go right down to a few tens of milliamps used by the board and screen. All Li chargers must stop charging when full, that is very important and in extreme cases can be dangerous. You can see them slowly reducing current as they are topping off the battery which can be anything between 10 to 40 minutes and if they have to balance charge it could be far longer. As long as you batteries stay below 4.25 V you are fine, personally I like to charge them to 4.1 V as that can double their life and only cost you about 10% capacity.

It may be balance charging, that drains the highest cell periodically, then charges all 3 until they are in balance. No it does not have a battery full message, but it will stop when all the cells are full and balanced.

It is not critical and only helps the battery meter be a bit more accurate, you can run battery analyzer with a dripper deck and large coils (I use 4 parallel loops of 0.5 mm Kanthal 0.5 ohm each in a loop about the size of a tennis ball). Or you can just adjust by adding or subtracting 0.5 - 1 Wh until you get a weak battery message when the gauge shows empty. The value will vary with batteries and vape style, the power and puff time will cause different amounts of voltage sag.

Thanks Cactus

There is no way to turn them off, like all electronics that have buttons the circuit needs to remain partially on to listen for the button press to turn it back on. They use very little power when in sleep mode and you can lock them if you are concerned about it firing in you pocket or bag.

doh

??? someone nicked all the gold (Cu Ag plated) off the end of that cable, I have one in my hand now and can't understand how that could happen, Evolv will probably do you a replacement screen under warranty, go to the main sire and open a ticket + include the photo.

Load it in the lhs of the materials tab, select it and click the right arrow to put it on the mod, then you can use it in a profile.

I agree people should do what works for them, but honestly the difference between 316 and 316L profiles is too small for a human (well almost all, maybe some people are ultra ultra calibrated like people that can tune pianos by ear) to be able to tell the difference. What ever works and keeps you off the smokes.

If the screen cable is not catching on the fire button it could be dirt, worth disconnection and giving a quick wipe with IPA or contact cleaner. If the screen needs replacing all you need to do is keep the cable clear of the fire button, you can bend it round a wire or credit card, don't bend it repeatedly in the same spot and not within 1 mm of the glass. You can fold the cable, but IMO bending is a bit safer.

To be fair that would be the battery manufacture mAh rating, the calc in EScribe only has that to work with & I believe those ratings are normally for a 1 A load so you would expect to get far less vaping.

Sounds like a dead battery, what are the cell voltages?