dwcraig1

Ramps, I didn't know what to call them. Does the cap still get hot?

Try here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

clean the ramps on the side of the cap and the corresponding areas of the mod. Did this problem start as soon as you received the mod or was it over time?

I have a VA 21700 DNA75C Spade, the battery cap and it's threads in the mod get oxidized quite easily. I was cleaning them with alcohol and they would oxidize rather quickly again. A couple of days ago when I cleaned the I applied a tiny amount of Noalox to the mods threads. It's too soon to know if this is going to work out but I suspect it will. Take note as to if for sure it's the battery cap and not the battery that's getting hot. A 26650 just isn't powerful enough for 100 watts, a 30 amp continuous 18560 or 2xxxx would be required. For sure it sounds like high resistance at the battery cap.

Does it fire longer than the maximum puff time that is set in EScribe? I would make it bump fire while connected with EScribe/Device monitor and see if it's the board that's supplying power to the 510 or if it's being powered directly from the batteries. I'm thinking that your 510 pin/wire is making contact with one of the battery wires perhaps.

Perhaps there's a setting in the theme that you are using that can control lock time.

Perhaps increase "lock time" (currently set to 240 minutes)

Looks to me to be a new board.

Just an example as these figures are not accurate. The board is powered by 12 volts @ 30 amps, it steps down the output voltage to something less, usually much less. So @ 3 volts output it might be able to output 50 amps+. (while only drawing 30 amps from each cell max, just an example) Oh. no to your question.

It is the amperage output of the board not the cells.

First thing I would do is measure the voltage of the battery and see if EScribe is reporting it correctly. This battery will fit Vapecige VTbox200: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-pack.html

Did this happen as soon as you tried it after cleaning the switch, or did it take awhile to develop?

Being that the battery appears to have been sitting well below 2.8 volts (providing that volt reading is accurate) the battery surely has internal damage. With that being said I would think that the board is what's causing the problem. But I don't know for sure.

Does the mod function or throw a battery error?

First off I can't imagine a computer USB putting out that much power. Do you have a volt meter where you can measure the actual voltage of the battery?

Probably best to start the process here: https://helpdesk.evolvapor.com/index.php?a=add&category=1

The maximum voltage output on a Go board is around 3.5 volts, figure from there what resistance is needed to attain up to 30 watts. An Orion DNA pod can barely handle 20 watts with the 0.25 one, less with the .5

Poor connections between the cells and board need to be ruled out. You should be able to get your full power setting in non TC until your cells sag to below the Cell Soft Cutoff. The misfiring , does that happen when using EScribe to fire it? Would you post a snippet like this one?

I've been vaping for about 7 years now and I'm not sure if I've ever seen an aluminum 510 . In the old days a lot of them were nickle plated brass and they wore quite quickly. Most all of today's 510's are stainless steel. The colored one generally have coating similar to what's used on fire arms. This coating if on the on threads interferes with conduction. The DNA250 board model wise is about as good of a board has one can get, that being said my guess is some type of connection issue between the board and the coil. The lower the ohms of the load the more critical accurate connections become.

It appears to me that the Jazz had a name change

I deleted my post about the warm atty a few minutes after posting as I was unsure if it was the cause.

Has another USB cable been tried?

There have been many known cases where the fire button pinches the ribbon cable of the screen .