Wayneo

Thanks @retird, I think it's the 1st time you've chimed in, or your name certainly would have been included.

Well, those cells look/looked imbalanced. Battery issue. Keep an eye on that, or try charging till they're all the same value, or recovery charge which takes a long time. Isn't that the mod with those easily replaceable lipo battery packs? Post another screen shot, same as before.

TLDR; Try my Goldilocks method. Hey @sdmf74 I think VB said it best "True, but I don't think it is getting anywhere 600 F in this case" when even you get different results with your known/handbuilt coils/wire. SS being an alloy, we all know the wire composition can vary batch. We also know how honest China companies are. Are there any other TC coils you could try for that tank, or a rebuildable deck option? Other than, why not try @Chunky's suggestion of modifying the curve or a custom TCR for those coils. Here's what I'd do (as I don't have a thermoprobe, and you want to rule out a connection issue). Create a material type with a TCR value of 120 (.00120) name it tcr120, and another of 140. Load them both on your mod either in a new profile or just material type With your ohms not locked try your coil at your regular 600F with your regular profile. Let your resistance refine Change to new material type (tcr120 or tcr140) without removing atty AND also adjust/Set your temp at what you normally like/remember (4xx - 5xx) with your own wire Have a vape (still cold/weak - try higher tcr, too hot - try lower tcr), by just changing to the different profile or material immediately Now you should have an idea if you need to go to even higher values (still too cold at 140) or lower values (too hot at 120) Keep doing that until you feel you're in the ballpark. Trash your tested material profiles, and either leave what you liked as just the TCRnumber or name it Notch or whatever is meaningful to you. Final thoughts .... just run in straight wattage mode where you know it works great. For this anomaly wouldn't you want to pose your question to the coil manufacturer? If any of you guys @giz @awsum @VB @chunky think i'm off my rocker, I can delete this, just let me know (pm or publicly)

Not sure what you mean by the "29 hour problem". - That was meant for @giz. On a first look, I see nothing wrong with your settings. I'll have to ponder on this for a while

'battery info : where can i found this ?' On the battery itself ... like LG HG2, 6 months old

And 'Battery info' and how long have you been using them

@sdmf74 YES, I use Aspire Triton and Cleito SS .4 premade coils succesfully in temp mode, the warmth I get from them matches my use of Ti coils at the same temp. Also closely matches when I 'roll my own' coils with 316L or 430. Is this ".... evolv 316l tcr with the LV wire" the material profile you're using for them? @giz That 'Aspire' in post 1 is actually what caught my eye first. Of all my posts, I only ever posted 1 Topic, which was about these coils. Without making assumptions I'm leaning towards that 29 hour problem Edit: spelling

Also remove that original 316 from all profiles, then delete it. There's very little difference between straight and the L. Material is wire specific, not coil size, etc.

Complete Super solid post, but didn't wanna go there ^^^^^, seeing as how we're Evolv-ing.

No worries man. We'll help you determine if it's a board fault. The worst case scenario is that you'll need to send either the mod or the board to (Evolv) in the USA. Have a good one. Printscreens much cleaner, clear and all info, not pictures

I'm with @Saint_VB and @awsum. Pick one of your mods with this issue and post a couple full Printscreens (Mod tab, Material tab with wire type highlighted, profile you use) and finally Device Monitor while firing. Power, power set, temp, temp set, cold ohms, live ohms ticked. Guy, seriously? Pick any temperature, and your vape should have the same warmth WITH ANY WIRE TYPE. The OP is already here '600f and getting a weak vape' that's the issue.

NO, you bought a ThinkVape productYour 1st contact should be your place of purpose, followed by Thinkvape. If it's determined to be a board issue and no help from them, then Evolv. Anger is understandable, but you're misdirecting it. Tell Gearbest you're angry, we're here to help you. Can you post a full proper screenshot (not a video or cell phone picture) of Device Monitor, and a screenshot of the 'Mod' tab

On another side note... Do you still have that 'resistance locked' in the profile? It stops the board from working half its magic, and IMHO mainly effective for shoddy builds with jumpy ohms Refinement - DNA 75 Datasheet, Page 6, under 'Resistance lock'

Hey @Little Brat, might I suggest you only do as asked, and not venture off doing your own thing as it makes things more difficult. You're screenshots are our eyes, and our requests ... your fingers. Here's an example. In your post #3, look at your wattages and 'ohms lock' [QUOTE=Little Brat] [/QUOTE] Then when requested a second time, you actually made changes (Post 31), albeit only a 2.5 watt decrease, but now the ohms are locked. A change, perhaps to preserve and retain the value, if in between was when you did the drone screenshot [QUOTE=Little Brat] [/QUOTE] You'll be all fixed up relatively quickly my good man. The DNA's can seem quite daunting at times. In the hands of anyone that commented here, I'd say less than 10 minutes. Others working as our fingers adds time naturally. Have a good night.

Clearly the wrong wire profile. That ending value at 800F should be close to a value of 1.33 (off the top of my head). Easy fix @Little Brat. I'll let giz finish up.

Thanks @giz, I was on mobile. @Mustafa once you're done report back with your thoughts on the ease of doing this so others will learn from your experience. Sorry if I sounded harsh.

Mustafa, on your battery tab you'll see Battery analyzer. Start with close to fully charged batteries. Create about a .5 ohm coil. Best to use 4 or so tennis ball sized loops of wire. Start the test, at 40 watts. In less than an hour, the testing will finish. You then need to save and load. Dead easy, and the absolute most accurate values for your mod and your batteries. Cheers.

@Mustafa After asking this again and again over a 5 week period, you could have run your own Battery Analyzer 4,312 times. I takes .... maybe an hour, tops. It will be accurate for whatever battery they re-wrapped.

That could be because one or both mods were not tuned by LV (mod resistance an thermals), or your therion is bumping into the 6V Output Voltage limit.

IMHO your thoughts are completely backwards, but understandable as there's been so much back and forth wandering/waffling/drivel by so many. Heck, who the hell am I? "was running it at .004 which is what I am using on my other DNA devices for the most part, but after reading it today I set it to .009 and it is still working fine. I also tried .011 and a little higher and it wasn't stable. .009 seems about right." You can't just ballpark it when we're talking such small value differences. And you've now moved it from a lower value to a higher value. A lower conservative value is better than a higher value. "... but your temp reading will probably be lower than it would be to get a similar vape with a better tuned unit" Not sure what you're really trying to say here. With a mod resistance of say 0, and a user setting of say 400F, the actual temp would be higher at the coil. " .... You will start getting erratic results or TC failure when you are either exactly" Interesting, who said this? Evolv had always recommended a conservative value, somewhere @ 80% of the measured value till we got the copper tool, which no longer works on the 2xx boards. Edit : Found an excellent thread on this. Posts 8 and 11 (Point 2), both from Evolv are excellent and IMHO validate my thoughts (I hope) https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239

BUT you'll never see it UNTIL you turn UP your charging Brightness !

Yo @Amirulmukmiinin Are you trying to use this in TC mode ? If it's just jumpy ohms, check the build with Atomizer Analyzer.

Same form factor and right down to Lipo, except the 200 board. https://vapenw.com/review/product/list/id/15835/

Your battery voltage - black line shows that 'dip' while firing. Value at the lowest point Yes, sexy mods with many devices not setup properly by Lost Vape, and numerous complaints of their SS curve. For your mod resistance a conservative value (lower) is better than higher. Here's a link for a quick and dirty method. https://evolvapor.forumchitchat.com/post?id=7522239&trail=75Read from post 72 onwards. OR, here's the short version. Mod resistance calibration (giz method) A coil will work, but the Test is best run with about a 4in. - 6in. piece of tc wire across an RDA build decks posts. In Escribe (mod tab), set Mod Resistance to 0. In wire profile, Power = 1 Temp = 0 / Preheat temp = 1 preheat Punch = 1 Preheat Time Limit = 0. Upload To Device...attach deck with coil or wire to mod...pulse (quick) fire to get mod to check cold ohms (if new coil question asked, answer yes)...Run Atomizer Analyzer ... allow wire to cool back to room temperature (extremely important) & subtract the Cold Ohms from the Raw Ohms... The difference will be the Mod Resistance.. Run your own 'thermal characteristics' - 3 hours Same tab (mod) as your battery info lower down. Your 2nd Printscreen, heading "Thermal" Beforehand, watch this video./topic/65895-topic/?do=findComment&comment=892012

@imfallen_angel In your 1st Device Monitor screen, it shows your room temp ~68F, board temp ~117F, that's about 50F difference, probably from the batteries. If you could do another print screen, and put that movable vertical where it shows the most sag, and report to us that value. The mod resistance is on your battery tab showing .004 which is a perfectly respectable value if it is correct. Although the Mfgr should set it, and perhaps they did, it doesn't mean it's correct for your individual mod. Quick 5 minutes for you to validate. "I did the mod resistance test, which is part of why I locked it ..." I think you meant you locked the coil ohms/resistance lock. The last 2 lines of my post were a direct copy/paste from the DNA75 datasheet published by Evolv. I trust their words and have never locked my resistance ever. "I already tried the Steam engine profile, the default and the 0.00092 value with absolutely no success" So many moving pieces from your posts, I'm attempting to start you from square one with a solid setup. You really do need to run your own 'thermal characteristics' for TC to work accurately. Either you wiped reset them to defaults, or Lost Vape never populated the values. Either way, doing your own, while 3 hours is long, will be the most accurate. I've done it for each of my DNA's. "Where I run the same tank/build on a chinese mod at 340F, on the Therion I have to be over 500F... that's way too much a difference to be "not as accurate" here." I agree with you. It is crazy, but not hopeless. Your mod seems fairly new (less than 1000 puffs), and probably still within Lost Vapes 6 month warranty, but I think it's too early to call it a faulty mod. So ..... do you wanna get it done right, or you happy with "At least right now, it appear to be stable with the settings I have on it" Edit: "But one thing I can say is that after just a little while (maybe 1/2 an hour of vaping), my batteries (that I left in the Therion overnight to charge) are already down to about ½." And you're sure these are new Authentic LG's? I vape at double your wattage on the same batteries for much longer on all my mods.