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Found 7 results

  1. I got my esquare yesterday and I've been messing with it pretty much ever since. Background: I have an Alien 220 and a goon 24mm i run as my normal set up. Got a merlin mini RTA with the esquare and have been playing with them both. The alien can be finnicky with the TC, but it is pretty good about not giving me a dry hit. Materials: I'm using 24x36 single core clapton SS 316L with single coils in both my Goon and Merlin. In the Goon i tried first it with 5 wrap spaced 3.5mm twisted coil. Now i am running a single coil 6 wrap, 3.5mm spaced coil, ohming around .33-.36. On the Merlin i started with a simple 6 wrap, 3mm contact coil. Now i have a 3mm 6 wrap spaced coil in it. Both times it ohmed around .30-.34. Settings: I ran stock 316 and got whispy airy hits. Uploaded the steam engine 316L profile. Still whispy. Made a profile (we will call 316L2) with the TCR set instead, tried .000895 - .00095 with better results around .00095. 20-30W pre power, 1-.25s preheat, 5-9 punch. 375-475F. 42-60w. The situation: Now, when i first coiled and wicked the Merlin and turned the esquare on, right out of the gate i got a decent hit. Then i got a dry hit. I tried again and got another. Broke it down, the Merlin's wick was wet at the bottom but dry at the top. Simple, too much wick. Rewicked, tried again and that is when the whispy hits started. They were at least DECENT, but my alien definitely does better. Try my goon, same problem. Fiddle with temp and watts, nothing. So i pop open escribe and start reading about it. Create a 316L csv on steam engine, but nothing. Once i tried the 316L2 profile with the set TCR, i cranked up the temp to 475F and it was working better. Essentially it would kick into temp protection at like 25W max, but it went up to about 35W at 475F. Keep in mind i had prepower and power set 52-60W, but it never hit those wattages. Start fresh today. Put the second set of spaced coils into each atty. Same problem. Take off the attys after a weak hit, replace it and it asks if its a new atty (which it only does sometimes on my merlin but always on my goon). New .33 (.35 on the goon) old .31, same on both attys basically. So i take the new, freshly fired coil resistance. Now i get a hit similar to my alien, but i notice now that the TC mode isn't throttling the wattage at all and not hitting TP. On my goon with saturated coils, this is fine. But with the merlin it is giving me CONSTANT dry hits. It is firing like it's in watt mode but it's in TC mode still. I rewicked the merlin again, thinking maybe i messed up wicking again. Use even less wick and cut shorter than i had been. Still the same problem. Dry hit city. It is just awful. I am at a complete loss as to what i am doing wrong. If i wanted a VW mod that had janky TC, i woulda just gotten another alien. And there is NO WAY my alien should be doing better than my DNA60 with the exact same settings in each. But, sure enough, it is. I took the dry hitting merlin straight off the DNA and put it on my alien, and i can hit it for like 5s with no dry hit. TC hits just fine on the alien. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. If you need more info, let me know! Cheers and happy vaping! Edit: Just tried to dry hit my goon and i got it to where it would dry hit, but i didnt push it over the edge to see. I've had too many today and its making me fill icky. But i noticed the temp doesnt even get near the limit of 400F. it barely breaks 300F. It over throttles watts when its cold resistance and then doesnt throttle watts at all warm resistance. Something isn't right.
  2. Atlas Gallivant

    SS 316L Temp Control Issues

    I've been searching for days, trying to figure this out on my own but I can't seem to do it. I've been trying to get SS 316L to work in temp control and it seems to be very difficult. For instance, I will build coils (or use pre-made, I've tried both), and I aim to be somewhere around 0.4-0.5ohms. I lightly dry burn SS 316L at 10watts in a dark room and get all of the hot spots out. I then wick the coil and measure the cold resistance in Escribe. My most recent coil comes in at 0.4 @ 72° room temp, but when I vape the coil, the resistance also rises (I know SS 316L does this), but it will raise or lower from 0.39-0.45 and my mod can't seem to account for this variation correctly. Vapor production quickly declines and flavor mutes. I've tried countless different .csv's but none of them seem to fix the issue. In my most recent build, I will attempt to fire 0.4ohms at 40watts 475° but my mod will usually ask me if I connected a new atomizer at 0.43ohms. If I choose 'no, use old settings' then my vapor is basically non-existant. If I change the resistance to 0.43 then the temp control is all over the place and I will get dry hits. Any advice? Are my builds just crappy/inconsistent? Should I try a material that isn't SS 316L? I've tried spaced coils and they seem to work a bit better, but not by much. Do I need a different .csv? My atomizers are Gas Mods GR1 and B2K. Tha. nks! Edit: I've made sure that my lead connections are extra secure, that's not the problem.
  3. Hi, I got this TC issue and, after reading many topics, I am still unsure why TC does not work. Basically, I got a ~0.11 resistance twisted wire that vapes great in wattage mode. It is a dual coil of roughly 5/4 each. Resistance does jump as high as 0.13 or 0.14 sometimes if vaped for a while. That's a pretty big variation, I know. I tried everything: locking the ohms, changing temp, turning off/on the TC and locking/unlocking the device itself, and changing TCR values... nothing worked so far. I used to use Tungsten that was around 0.5 locked but jumped to as high as 0.9 when vaped, and that was recognized by the device as a TC coil (with Tungsten values). I use a Paranormal 166 mod. Can anyone give me some advice, please? I'm totally confused here. Do I need to provide any screenies of anything? I seem to have the same issue as others who used 316L. It's from Kidney Puncher (I really like this wire). Anyway, device monitor shows nothing--no jumps, just doesn't read. I don't know what to do. Anyone else have this experience, and if so, did anyone manage to fix it? On a side note: I used to vape straight coils (also 5/4) that had no TC on them (same KP wire). I thought maybe... 165c was working, so I cranked up the wattage to 75 from the normal 23 watts that I was used to. Boy... the most disgusting, burnt flavor (very, very harsh on the throat) that I've ever had nearly made my eyes water. That was when I knew that 165c setting was not working (in addition to it showing OFF when it is fired and of course not showing the temp itself when in watt dominant-mode). Appreciate any help in advance.
  4. Sara Turner

    DNA 75C SS 316L Profiles

    So I just bought a LV Therion 75C and attempted to use it with ss 316L and it barely gave any vape. I see that I’m not the only one with this issue going back to 2016. Ive downloaded the recommended cvs profiles posted on this forum but I can’t figure out how to Save a cvs file or upload the file into Escribe. Escribe is looking for an .ecigprofile but I can’t locate it. Can anyone tell me where I’m going wrong? Thanks.
  5. Vandy Vape Superfine 316L MTL wire. I've been vaping TC since the launch of the DNA 40 and this wire is about the best I've found for TC bar none. I'm no affiliate of Vandy Vape, I'm not even in the vape business anymore, I'm just sharing what I have found as it works and works very well. As a basic explanation, tension wrap your coils by anchoring one end of the wire and wrap towards the anchor point maintaining tension on the wraps, space the coils to just about the width of the wire, too close and you'll just get a bunch of popping andspitting. that's all you need to know. This coil spacing pictured would be just a hair too close although it vapes very well and works well with 316L TC it just pops and spits a bit much for some. Keeping the ohms resistance up lowers the amperage and utilizes more voltage making for a more efficient circuit demanding less from your batteries which is a safer vape. Enjoy! ;0) Edit; Pics didn't work so well, I give!
  6. Podunk Steam

    New Mirage doesn't like 316L

    First day new Mirage So far I've loaded Daniels theme ( DJLsb) Updated 316L to 0.00092 TCR Changed unlock number of clicks and sequence Single coiled my Ammit 25 with a 316L flat clapton 0.3x0.8x32 Locked resistance at 0.27 ohms And once the mod takes a nap and I have to wake it with the unlock sequence the TC is whacked. It hits Temp protect before it even heats the coil enough to make vapor. Would this be the issue I've heard of with combination wire 316L coils and the DNA 75C? Trace issues across the different sized wires in the clapton coils? Any fix applicable? I have tried searching this topic with no luck so I'm posting. Edit: If I change to Wattage, fire the coil, change back to TC the TC works again. Think I found the issue, tightened the coils connection again and resistance dropped to .23, back to Escribe with me.
  7. PepeSilvia

    SS316L problem?

    Hello everyone! I have a Therion 166. I'm using UD 24AWG 316L SS wire from Fasttech. 2.5mm diameter single coil, 5-6 wraps coming out to be around 0.25ohm. The numbers add up on Steam Engine. I tried using stock 316 material, and the 316L Elite profile from Steam Engine. Firing at 20 watts with no preheat, temp limit at 420F. On both profiles the temp limit hits after a second or so I get very little vapor. After the second or third puff in a succession the temp limit hits almost instantly and I get no vapor. It wasn't as bad when the coil was freshly made last night, it keeps getting worse. This is my second time making a similar coil with the same wire, and same results. SS430 works beautifully, and I experience none of these issues under similar settings. Using Escribe 1.2 SP5.2 Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Can I provide any additional information to help you understand it better?